Question for you motor guys

[pauldeepsea]

fired the bear up tonight, had sputtering at about 2400 rpm and after about a 20 minute drive I had white smoke from the exhaust. Got home and had air blowing through the top of the front cylinder sounded like it was coming from the center where compression release would be mounted. The bear only has the plugs installed. From what it looks like the plug may have lifted. Took off the air filter and one of the vent holes on the bolts that mount into the motor was plugged . Started the bike up without the air filter installed and the white smoke was gone and so was the air escaping from the front cylinder. At first I was thinking a blown head gasket but now I am thinking the motor was not venting? Any recommendations ?

 

[Marky-Marc]

Paul, you answered your own question.....vent was plugged.....you would get white or light blue smoke......keep riding brother....

 

[pauldeepsea]

Paul, you answered your own question.....vent was plugged.....you would get white or light blue smoke......keep riding brother....

Thanks, I thought so after starting it without the breather bolts in. My dumbass used rtv to seal around the outside of the bolts to stop oil from blowing out of the bolts. I am going to switch to gasket material to seal it. Guess that's what was causing the stumble.
Again thanks for the confirmation and all your how to videos!

 

[pauldeepsea]

Paul, you answered your own question.....vent was plugged.....you would get white or light blue smoke......keep riding brother....

Well, cleaned out the filter, vent bolts, and fired it up tonight. Out for a test ride tonight put about 30 miles on tonight. Bike is running good. Still has a mild stumble between 2400-2900 rpm but everything seems to be well. Plan on checking for intake leaks and then I plan on resetting the carb. Plan on riding to work tomorrow. About 100 miles .. fuck it let's see what happens lol

 

[Marky-Marc]

intake is a good place to start...have you checked the plugs? just looked at them? otherwise, could be a simple Air/Fuel mixture...screw could have vibrated a mm or so and changed....shit happens.....keep it simple...

 

[pauldeepsea]

intake is a good place to start...have you checked the plugs? just looked at them? otherwise, could be a simple Air/Fuel mixture...screw could have vibrated a mm or so and changed....shit happens.....keep it simple...

Just changed the plugs, plan on checking the exhaust for leaks and resetting the carb. Rode about 100 miles to work today.

 

[Matheny 514]

intake is a good place to start...have you checked the plugs? just looked at them? otherwise, could be a simple Air/Fuel mixture...screw could have vibrated a mm or so and changed....shit happens.....keep it simple...

 

[pauldeepsea]

Also I have never had it really dialed in since converting over to the xxx carb. Even had it adjusted by the "professionals" it has been showing signs of burning rich. The carb tends to dump too much fuel. Too the point if I hammer on the throttle I will get some good flames from the exhaust.

 

[Marky-Marc]

Also I have never had it really dialed in since converting over to the xxx carb. Even had it adjusted by the "professionals" it has been showing signs of burning rich. The carb tends to dump too much fuel. Too the point if I hammer on the throttle I will get some good flames from the exhaust.

Hahaha....dragons are real....I was actually just going to mention cleaning or tuning your carb...if it almost sounds like a cough (bend over and cough cough.....hahahah), your intermediate jet could be dirty or too small, meaning it coughs or hesitates when it's switching from intermediate to main jet.....or TOO MUCH FUEL....tune it baby!!!!

TUNAGE!!!!

 

[pauldeepsea]

Burning way to rich!
Found this on my exhaust around the o2 sensor plug. Going to jb weld it

 

[makithapn]

I believe JB weld is loosened by heat there is a marine epoxy very similar to JB
I think it is called marine tech, somebody correct me if I am wrong please.
I used it to repair a marine manifold once with good results. not sure how much heat it can take.

 

[john sachs]

Take it to a shop and have it welded properly. JB weld on that would be like pissing in the wind.
Also, find what stress factor is making it crack there.
John

 

[pauldeepsea]

Take it to a shop and have it welded properly. JB weld on that would be like pissing in the wind.
Also, find what stress factor is making it crack there.
John

May take it and weld it myself in one of my classes for now I used jb weld. It is not a stress point. I had the pipes rechromed and not sure if it's the exterior plating. The crack looks like it's running. The crack is on the rear pipe underneath

 

[cdogg556]

Take it to a shop and have it welded properly. JB weld on that would be like pissing in the wind.
Also, find what stress factor is making it crack there.
John

 

[pauldeepsea]

Well did the carb reset per the s&s manual.
I have one of those xxx carbs on the sled. Bike will not even fire. If I adjust the accelerator pump according to the instructions approximately 2 turns out after seated no fuel is dumped into the carb? I have to back out the accelerator pump almost 4 turns before any fuel sprays into the carb. Going to quit for tonight and get after it tomorrow. So far I have not been impressed with the xxx carb.

 

[chubs]

Just having that bung welded there, the pipe is already stressed to some extent. Looks like there are a couple small cracks started along the toe of the weld also. If I was gonna weld that up, I would drill a small hole, say about 1/8 ", at each end of the crack, cover the ends of the pipe and purge it with argon for a while so the weld doesn't get all "crusty" and oxidized inside the pipe. Short "back step welds should help hold the shrinkage to a minimum. A good sharp tungsten on the tig, and ya should be able to fix it right up! Got complete faith in ya

 

[pauldeepsea]

Just having that bung welded there, the pipe is already stressed to some extent. Looks like there are a couple small cracks started along the toe of the weld also. If I was gonna weld that up, I would drill a small hole, say about 1/8 ", at each end of the crack, cover the ends of the pipe and purge it with argon for a while so the weld doesn't get all "crusty" and oxidized inside the pipe. Short "back step welds should help hold the shrinkage to a minimum. A good sharp tungsten on the tig, and ya should be able to fix it right up! Got complete faith in ya

Tig welding has been the hardest for me too.

 

[chubs]

Tig welding has been the hardest for me too.

You know you can do it !! Just my opinion, but tig has always been the easiest for me. You are in control of your speed and filler feed rate, and if ya have a foot pedal control, you control the heat! Once ya get the hang of it, it'll be the only method you'll want ta use. Like I said, cap the pipe ends of with a baggie or tape or something, and purge the air out with argon ant the bead indide the pipe will be as clean as the outside. Back in the day, I used to weld cryogenic transport tankers, and all the stainless or aluminum inner vessles were tig welds with full x ray testing. Got faith in ya man!!

 

[Marky-Marc]

Well did the carb reset per the s&s manual.
I have one of those xxx carbs on the sled. Bike will not even fire. If I adjust the accelerator pump according to the instructions approximately 2 turns out after seated no fuel is dumped into the carb? I have to back out the accelerator pump almost 4 turns before any fuel sprays into the carb. Going to quit for tonight and get after it tomorrow. So far I have not been impressed with the xxx carb.

so why did you put in the xxx carb? just curious....

 

[pauldeepsea]

so why did you put in the xxx carb? just curious....

Actually thought it would make a difference in performance and love the chrome carb!
Chrome whore