Clutch adjustment help

BadBrad · Oct 29, 2012

Sure sounds like the same procedure I use. Guess some of these guys with the bandit will have to chime in. I'm stock. So is Rocky.

BBChopper · Oct 29, 2012

Mine has started doing it too (Bandit). I have had trouble adjusting it since I put it in but now it's real bad. Have you changed what oil your using? How many shims are in your's???

JeffM · Oct 29, 2012

Mine is also stock, followed those exact instructions, have fresh AFT oil and still dragging.

When cold it now stalls when you put it gear for the first time WTF, thought i had that sorted.

cavcom278 · Oct 29, 2012

OK heres what i did,
loosen the cable tensioner on the down tube,
remove rod adjustment cover
loosen retaining nut and back off a little
then back out rod till it was free
turn in "finger" tight
hold rod in place"Allen wrench" and tighten lock nut
remove play in cable and check ride...
this is the best way i found and haven't had to adjust mine since 4000+ miles.
this is in no way to only way to do this just the best way i found. I find neutral easy and theres no slipping at all. hope it helps...:up:
I have a stock clutch too,
Heres a question you say "ATF" automatic trans fluid????? is this right????

JeffM · Oct 30, 2012

Yes auto tranny oil.
There are quite a few of us on here running ATF.
Not sure of the scientific ho ya, but i have been running ATF in all my Harley's since my first EVO in 85, never an issue. Some had drag set up's, some were pushing big ponies as well , never a problem. With the high temps we run at here in summer it seems to retain its viscosity better than some of the mineral based oils.

V · Oct 30, 2012

The best adj. I got on the Bandit was no more than a 1/8" turn back off the throw out bearing. I installed one shim after the initial installation. When bike was cold it would clunk into first gear like a Mother. After it warmed up it shifted smooth. The folks at Bandit told me to run about 30 oz of fluid vs the quart. When you drain the primary there is a good amount still left in the front. (you find that out when you pull the cover). More plates on the Bandit set up leave less room when the clutch is disengaged and can cause more friction.

erldawg · Oct 30, 2012

JeffM said:
Yes auto tranny oil.
There are quite a few of us on here running ATF.
Not sure of the scientific ho ya, but i have been running ATF in all my Harley's since my first EVO in 85, never an issue. Some had drag set up's, some were pushing big ponies as well , never a problem. With the high temps we run at here in summer it seems to retain its viscosity better than some of the mineral based oils.

Yes I run ATF as well. B&M Trick Shift

BadBrad · Oct 30, 2012

I use a premium type F ATF in mine and Rocky's dogs. The type F is said to not foam like some others. Never an issue. When we got our dogs, ATF is what was recommended for use in the primary. Other fluids probably work just as well, but don't put synthetic oil in it. Heard too many stories about slippage when using that.

RoadRider · Oct 30, 2012

The 1/4 turn is an estimate of how much to back the screw off not a rule. If the bike is still lurching then you do not have the clutch rod going far enough in to engage totally. In stead of a 1/4 turn try 1/8th or maybe a RCH more. that will engage the clutch more and should fix the lurching. The less you back off the more engagement.

BadBrad · Oct 30, 2012

RoadRider said:
The 1/4 turn is an estimate of how much to back the screw off not a rule. If the bike is still lurching then you do not have the clutch rod going far enough in to engage totally. In stead of a 1/4 turn try 1/8th or maybe a RCH more. that will engage the clutch more and should fix the lurching. The less you back off the more engagement.

Ditto on that!

xonionx · Jun 13, 2016

Roaddawg said:
OK, lately it has seemed that my bike has been creeping or feels like it wants to move forward even when the clutch lever is fully pulled in (clutch should be disengaged).

I followed the How To clutch adjust but it continues to act the same.

My question is; A year ago I had the clutch and basket replaced (original clutch basket was cracked) and a Bandit clutch was put in. I believe this clutch has a few more plates, new basket, springs, etc. Is this clutch adjusted differently than the stock one?

I did the following:

removed cover
loosened clutch cable
loosened lock nut
turned shaft until pressure was felt
backed off quarter turn
tightened lock nut
tightened clutch cable
replaced cover

I did this several times, yet it still wants to creep forward.

Any ideas?

i have 2005 pitbull same issue with cluch not sure what else i can do i did fluid change in primary but it didn't help i did adjust on cluch same any other options?

Sven · Jun 13, 2016

Generic Clutch assembly... And yes, better read this over 3 times-[it's condensed on the assembly-lineup-inspect-correct]-is the charm I hear.

Aluminum Pressure Plate:
This is a flat aluminum plate with spring recesses = No adjustment needed, just the same 1/4 turn out.
a. No drag possible. Look for warped steel plates stacked on the palm and look for daylight between plates.
b. No drag possible, or the surface of the plate is more eaten up, loses spring tension and slips.
c. No drag possible, unless, unless, it is so bad in warpage, only a squid could fuck that kind of part up.

Spring Steel Wave Plate:
This is a huge spring steel round plate that is concave in static form = This too remains with the 1/4 turn out at the screw adjustment.
a. Upon assembly, this wave plate needs to be as flat as a pancake. Stack steels together to press plate back to flat.
b. Even if both 'frictions and steels with the cut or sharp edge all facing said pressure plate,' the wave will cause drag with clutch lever in, 14/ out, everything perfectly lined up with the stars.
c. I drag with warp, I drag with wave, I drag with indiscriminately install a plate any old way is the bike assembles only one way.

Signed,
NOLTT (nice old little treasure trove)

xonionx · Jun 13, 2016

Sven said:
Generic Clutch assembly... And yes, better read this over 3 times-[it's condensed on the assembly-lineup-inspect-correct]-is the charm I hear.

Aluminum Pressure Plate:
This is a flat aluminum plate with spring recesses = No adjustment needed, just the same 1/4 turn out.
a. No drag possible. Look for warped steel plates stacked on the palm and look for daylight between plates.
b. No drag possible, or the surface of the plate is more eaten up, loses spring tension and slips.
c. No drag possible, unless, unless, it is so bad in warpage, only a squid could fuck that kind of part up.

Spring Steel Wave Plate:
This is a huge spring steel round plate that is concave in static form = This too remains with the 1/4 turn out at the screw adjustment.
a. Upon assembly, this wave plate needs to be as flat as a pancake. Stack steels together to press plate back to flat.
b. Even if both 'frictions and steels with the cut or sharp edge all facing said pressure plate,' the wave will cause drag with clutch lever in, 14/ out, everything perfectly lined up with the stars.
c. I drag with warp, I drag with wave, I drag with indiscriminately install a plate any old way is the bike assembles only one way.

Signed,
NOLTT (nice old little treasure trove)

thanks for responding
is there a open primery option for 2005 big dog i saevfew but its like 3k
is there anything under 3k
thanks

Alexey · Jun 13, 2016

05 Ridgeback. 12 plates. Box 75w140, primary 20w50. Adjusting strictly according to a manual. Then the cable adjustment. Always free lift on the handle.
everything is fine.

Brew · Jun 13, 2016

xonionx said:
thanks for responding
is there a open primery option for 2005 big dog i saevfew but its like 3k
is there anything under 3k
thanks

Right now Baker is your best choice, it's about $2700 bucks. Curtis may still be selling them...

xonionx · Jun 14, 2016

Sven said:
Generic Clutch assembly... And yes, better read this over 3 times-[it's condensed on the assembly-lineup-inspect-correct]-is the charm I hear.

Aluminum Pressure Plate:
This is a flat aluminum plate with spring recesses = No adjustment needed, just the same 1/4 turn out.
a. No drag possible. Look for warped steel plates stacked on the palm and look for daylight between plates.
b. No drag possible, or the surface of the plate is more eaten up, loses spring tension and slips.
c. No drag possible, unless, unless, it is so bad in warpage, only a squid could fuck that kind of part up.

Spring Steel Wave Plate:
This is a huge spring steel round plate that is concave in static form = This too remains with the 1/4 turn out at the screw adjustment.
a. Upon assembly, this wave plate needs to be as flat as a pancake. Stack steels together to press plate back to flat.
b. Even if both 'frictions and steels with the cut or sharp edge all facing said pressure plate,' the wave will cause drag with clutch lever in, 14/ out, everything perfectly lined up with the stars.
c. I drag with warp, I drag with wave, I drag with indiscriminately install a plate any old way is the bike assembles only one way.

Signed,
NOLTT (nice old little treasure trove)

i did all the step but now there is a very high friction point on cluch handle im not sure how to fix it when i release it its like all the way up not in the middle like before

Sven · Jun 14, 2016

Perfect adjustment! Congrats!
1. Hair trigger lever = hardly pull it in to shift.
2. Knows the pack is at the peak stack = the lever does not need to travel so deep to release-engage.
3. N is found easier = look how much throw you have to keep the plates farther from themselves.

The real story is do you find N like right now? If yes... Good Job!

BWG56 · Jun 14, 2016

Alexey said:
05 Ridgeback. 12 plates. Box 75w140, primary 20w50. Adjusting strictly according to a manual. Then the cable adjustment. Always free lift on the handle.
everything is fine.

??? in the primary or the motor

Clutch adjustment help

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