fucking oil
- Thread starter Alexey
- Start date
Alexey
Active Member
I kept all the rules engine break. To measure compression. in both cylinders 11 bar. I do not think that with the rings that something is wrong.
Alexey
Active Member
On the first point: you think 6oz not noticeable? I am very attentive to my bike, 6 ounces noticeable for me. I agree that there is nothing wrong if the oil leaked into the sump. I'm not sure that this reason.
On the second point: Do you think Russia has a lot of experts on the Big Dog motorcycles and engines S&S? I assure you they are very few.
I'm talking about the real professionals, not people who can disassemble and assemble. The engine is a lot of subtleties. For example adjustable pushrods. We need to know the manufacturer, the number of threads, the travel stop or not, the number of turns from the zero mark ... Good diagnosticians here a little. If you know someone recommend.
Alexey
Active Member
Yes, I started the bike and the engine warmed up, take a ride on it. The oil level has not risen.
Alexey
Active Member
No smoke, no leaks. That's true enough. Although there are no miracles. I will closely monitor the bike and look for the cause. Does not happen unsolvable problems.
Local chopper shop guy was starting the bikes up outside. I said why outside here? He said they sit, they start, they puke oil out the breather from sitting around the shop = Normal
I sold a practically new bike with 4,000 miles on it bike, had it sitting for so long, the oil ran into the crankcase. Same dry sump type system with a remote oil tank = Normal
I sold a practically new bike with 4,000 miles on it bike, had it sitting for so long, the oil ran into the crankcase. Same dry sump type system with a remote oil tank = Normal
05chop
Well-Known Member
ALEXEY I feel most of us who have replied to your problems know what they are talking about except for translation of your posts its a little confusing but getting better! I like your comment on non professionals All we can do is try to trouble shoot with you then move on till the real pros show up and post which some have.If only the sump had a dip stick you would know where your oil was hiding.
Alexey
Active Member
Guys all of you who responded thank you. You treat me with warmth and the good. I really appreciate it. In spite of the difficulties of translation and the difficult political situation we are continuing to communicate and help each other. It is most important. No oil, no motorcycle, but rather that we are People. No matter: Italians, Spaniards, Americans, Russian, Germans, French ....... Yes, all people. Let us remember this.
blacktopper
Active Member
Drain the oil tank and then the sump and measure the amount of oil that comes out
Marky-Marc
Well-Known Member
Marky-Marc
Well-Known Member
I told him to get some wenches, and flip bike upside down to drain oil......Good to hear, did you tell him to check his level only when the bike is at running temps and in the upright position?
SMCT
Active Member
On a dry sump engine, it is always in the best interest to not overfill. The tank needs room to breath as well. Whenever you use thick oil such as 20/50, you should give it (the oil) a chance to break down a little bit. There can be a huge difference in just 300 to 400 rpms and the level the dry sump tank registers. As long as the pick up area is safely covered at all times, your pretty much good to go. We always run our dry sump tanks at about 60 percent capacity and check them at idle (1200 to 1400 rpms) and we also rev them up a little but to make sure the level doesn't do anything real odd. The necks on some of these tanks doesn't really allow you to see in it, and that is extremely poor from an engineering stand point.
P.S. you never want your pick up to be at the very, very bottom of the tank, because that's where sediment and all the garbage drops to. You definitely want your drain plug to be at the bottom though.
As for this post. If it's not leaking and it's not burning it, than it is still in there and your doing something wrong.
When you have to drive them that long to get the proper reading, it only means one thing. That is, the oil pump side is more efficient than the scavenging side of the pump. Poor engineering, it should be visa versa. if you hook a vacuum gauge onto the crankcase, you will most likely have pressure, and that's not good for a dry sump system. It means not matching your charge by the rings with the correct size scavenging lobes. Ultimately there is too much oil swimming in the crankcase when in operation.
You get what you pay for when it comes to dry sump pumps. In the racing world, if your not spending 1800 bucks or greater for an oil pump, than it is most likely junk, and your whole engine design will suffer accordingly. I can almost bet the ranch that the scavenging side on these oil pumps are pure junk! A junked up scavenge side will force oil up the ring package because it's sitting in the crankcase and not in the tank. Vacuum in that crankcase, not pressure, keeps that ring package dry.
P.S. you never want your pick up to be at the very, very bottom of the tank, because that's where sediment and all the garbage drops to. You definitely want your drain plug to be at the bottom though.
As for this post. If it's not leaking and it's not burning it, than it is still in there and your doing something wrong.
When you have to drive them that long to get the proper reading, it only means one thing. That is, the oil pump side is more efficient than the scavenging side of the pump. Poor engineering, it should be visa versa. if you hook a vacuum gauge onto the crankcase, you will most likely have pressure, and that's not good for a dry sump system. It means not matching your charge by the rings with the correct size scavenging lobes. Ultimately there is too much oil swimming in the crankcase when in operation.
You get what you pay for when it comes to dry sump pumps. In the racing world, if your not spending 1800 bucks or greater for an oil pump, than it is most likely junk, and your whole engine design will suffer accordingly. I can almost bet the ranch that the scavenging side on these oil pumps are pure junk! A junked up scavenge side will force oil up the ring package because it's sitting in the crankcase and not in the tank. Vacuum in that crankcase, not pressure, keeps that ring package dry.
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Alexey
Active Member
You could explain about the pressure in the crankcase and oil return. Because the translation I can understand not all. Vacuum of crankcase leads to poor lubrication? you say: connect vacuum gauge and it will show the pressure. The pressure in the crankcase bad for lubrication?
" It means not matching your charge by the rings with the correct size scavenging lobes" ? You mean piston rings? Or do you mean a mismatch in the oil pump pinions? Pinions pumped more oil and pump out less.?
About the pressure in the crankcase. Engine has crankcase ventilation system. At high RPM, the gas leakage from the combustion chamber into the crankcase. The crankcase pressure increases. Breather in the rear cylinder (with a valve) lowers pressure. Breather in the front cylinder draws air from the manifold for pressure equalization. When the piston goes down the air and gas must be removed from the engine. And for that back the breather.
takt next- release cycle gas. The pistons go up, exhaust valve open. But when the piston goes up, the vacuum created in the crankcase. For this you need a breather on the front of the head. Just breather on the front head creates an additional vacuum in the intake manifold. This improves filling of the cylinder fuel mixture.
" It means not matching your charge by the rings with the correct size scavenging lobes" ? You mean piston rings? Or do you mean a mismatch in the oil pump pinions? Pinions pumped more oil and pump out less.?
About the pressure in the crankcase. Engine has crankcase ventilation system. At high RPM, the gas leakage from the combustion chamber into the crankcase. The crankcase pressure increases. Breather in the rear cylinder (with a valve) lowers pressure. Breather in the front cylinder draws air from the manifold for pressure equalization. When the piston goes down the air and gas must be removed from the engine. And for that back the breather.
takt next- release cycle gas. The pistons go up, exhaust valve open. But when the piston goes up, the vacuum created in the crankcase. For this you need a breather on the front of the head. Just breather on the front head creates an additional vacuum in the intake manifold. This improves filling of the cylinder fuel mixture.
BigDogBro1
Made in the USA
isn't there an oil line check valve to keep the oil from running back into the sump?
Alexey
Active Member
Hard to explain. I do not know the language. The valve is located in a rubber tube (the white side and a black side) does not separate oil. The valve prevents air to pass inside. The oil separator ( breather gear) is located in the crankcase.
A cylinder with a grid. This cylinder has a gear. The gear has a mark. When assembling the mark must align with the mark on the camshaft and crankshaft. Grid on this breathing gear separates the oil from the air. The oil returns to the oil tank, and air escapes through the valve into the rubber tube (the black side, white side). Here is a basic principle. More precisely, I can not explain. The language barrier.
A cylinder with a grid. This cylinder has a gear. The gear has a mark. When assembling the mark must align with the mark on the camshaft and crankshaft. Grid on this breathing gear separates the oil from the air. The oil returns to the oil tank, and air escapes through the valve into the rubber tube (the black side, white side). Here is a basic principle. More precisely, I can not explain. The language barrier.
Alexey
Active Member
The check valve is located in the oil pump. It is located closer to the outer part. Closer to you, if you look at the oil pump. High plug. It operates mainly in a cold engine. There is a high pressure, compresses the spring and returns oil.
Marky-Marc
Well-Known Member
TapioK
Well-Known Member
On my -03 the oil pump leaked a shitload of oil into the case (never happens on my -08) the thing breathes to the carb. Scared the shit out of me to see oil on the ground after a first short ride after a few weeks stand. Seeing the oil coming out of air cleaner was really a WTF moment before I figured what was happening. I suppose that ball in the pump is a bit dirty.
Hahahah
I forgot about that line "American components, Russian Components....all made in Taiwan"
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