Clutch Adjustment Needed on 99 Pro Sport

Energy One
WildBillNick

WildBillNick

Member
I have a 99 Pro Sport, 107 S&S, 5 Speed. I am with the understanding that it's a Jims Tranny but not sure. Previous owner didn't have much info. I need to adjust the clutch on my ride but I dont have any manuals or literature at all on my BDM. So, I'm not sure where or what to adjust. Most of the time it is hard to get into neutral unless I am rolling a bit. I have changed the tranny oil about 200 miles ago and seems to give no probs. However, when I cranked it up a few days ago and pulled in the clutch, and as soon as I put it in gear it went right into gear and learched before I let out on the clutch. I let it sit for a few minutes while it was warming up. I put it back in gear again and I could tell that it was still attempting to move while I had the clutch in. After I let it warm up some more and rode it about 40 miles with constantly using the clutch during stop and go, the clutch seemed to loosen up but still can't hit neutral sitting still. Today, I want to tackle that problem and see if I can make an adjustment.. Any words of wisdom on how to adjust the clutch would be great if anyone would care to chime in. I only started riding again in January after about 18 yrs so this BDM is new for me.
Tks!
 
FrankBDPS

FrankBDPS

Well-Known Member
Billy, the issue with neutral is the nature of the beast. These transmissions have straight cut gears and it is just hard to get neutral. You might try blipping the throttle a little.

Now the clutch. Assuming you do not have a belt drive primary. When was the last time you're primary chain case oil was changed? What weight oil was used? The clutch is a wet type clutch. If it is cold out or the oil is too heavy the clutch may not disengage until the oil warms up and thins out enough to flow between the clutch plates. Also how much free travel is in you're clutch lever.

It seems to me you're clutch may be ok. There are several post on the forum and on utube about clutches. Make sure you look at the post for a left hand drive bike. The clutches in the right hand drive bikes are different.

Good luck! Ride safe.
 
WildBillNick

WildBillNick

Member
FrankBDPS said:
Billy, the issue with neutral is the nature of the beast. These transmissions have straight cut gears and it is just hard to get neutral. You might try blipping the throttle a little.

Now the clutch. Assuming you do not have a belt drive primary. When was the last time you're primary chain case oil was changed? What weight oil was used? The clutch is a wet type clutch. If it is cold out or the oil is too heavy the clutch may not disengage until the oil warms up and thins out enough to flow between the clutch plates. Also how much free travel is in you're clutch lever.

It seems to me you're clutch may be ok. There are several post on the forum and on utube about clutches. Make sure you look at the post for a left hand drive bike. The clutches in the right hand drive bikes are different.

Good luck! Ride safe.
Click to expand...
Tks for the response Frank, I do have a belt drive primary. I changed the primary case oil approx 300 miles ago. I use Mobile 1 20W-50 V-Twin Full Synthetic oil. Normally my clutch will start to release about 1/4" from the bottom end when letting it out. I have also tried rocking it back and forth while idling to shift it into neutral but at times, I have to go ahead and shut it off to get it into neutral or at least get it into neutral before I get stopped. I will do some more searching on the forum as I have already but, I will also try to adjust the cable just a bit and see if It will make a difference. I can also understand what you're saying about the thickness of the oil and maybe need to let it warm up a little more. I purchased the ride from a private party in January, but I feel that the bike was his sons bike who was fatally injured on another motorcycle by a motorist, and I could not get some straight info on the oil type and maint. / other pertinant information from the seller. I could tell that the motorcycle had been sitting for a bit even though It sounded great. It just needed cleaning up a bit, rear break bled and adding break fluid. I also changed all the oil and filter, charged the battery, changed the plugs,and adjusted the carburetor so that it would idle correctly and not pop when letting off the gas. Also had to clean out the gas tanks because the right side especially had A LOT of rust in it. I cleanded out the tanks and put a inline filter to ensure nothing would pass to the carb until it has finally completely cleared up and it has. Sorry for the long book here. Haven't really had a chance to discuss with anyone what I have done with this bike since I acquired it. But it has a really beautiful paint job, sounds and runs good, Hooker 2 in 1 exhaust, PM breaks, Sturgis wheels, Original Big Dog Seat. So far, the clutch is the only hitch I have had since I bought the ride in late January and The throttle is a little stiff though.
 
Last edited:
FrankBDPS

FrankBDPS

Well-Known Member
Billy if you have a primary case there is a chain inside the case. A belt drive is an open primary where a wide belt and dry and exposed clutch is used.

In my opinion the 20w50 oil is way too heavy to use in the primary chain and clutch case. Primary oil is much thinner. I actually use automatic transmission oil in mine.
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
FrankBDPS said:
Billy if you have a primary case there is a chain inside the case. A belt drive is an open primary where a wide belt and dry and exposed clutch is used.

In my opinion the 20w50 oil is way too heavy to use in the primary chain and clutch case. Primary oil is much thinner. I actually use automatic transmission oil in mine.
Click to expand...
Not to mention synthetic isn't recommended in the Primary. Change your primary oil to a Non-Synthetic Primary oil or some ATF Type F Fluid. A lot of guys on the forum run BDM Trick Shift (Non-Synth) with good results as well.
 
WildBillNick

WildBillNick

Member
FrankBDPS said:
Billy if you have a primary case there is a chain inside the case. A belt drive is an open primary where a wide belt and dry and exposed clutch is used.

In my opinion the 20w50 oil is way too heavy to use in the primary chain and clutch case. Primary oil is much thinner. I actually use automatic transmission oil in mine.
Click to expand...
OK thks for the info on the oil. Yes, I saw the chain inside the case when I was inspecting it. I will say that when I drained the primary oil, it DID look like ATF fluid but it was pretty dirty. Maybe I rec'd some not so good info previously. I had been told that what ever I used in my regular oil tank that I shud just use the same in the Primary. Looks like I will change that Primary oil again.
 
Last edited:
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
Here is the deal... No N, or creeps when in gear, or grinds in gear = Warp disc.
No oil, no adjustment will help. Takes flat plates to break apart. Finding N is like butter.
 
WildBillNick

WildBillNick

Member
Th3InfamousI said:
Not to mention synthetic isn't recommended in the Primary. Change your primary oil to a Non-Synthetic Primary oil or some ATF Type F Fluid. A lot of guys on the forum run BDM Trick Shift (Non-Synth) with good results as well.
Click to expand...
Tks Eric, I will change it to the ATF Type F Fluid. I don't have access to the BDM Trick Shift in this PODUNk ass town that I live in and am bout 100 miles West of Ft. Worth.. I always new that the Type F ATF Fluid was usually for Ford Automatic Transmissions. Anyhow, if that is what shud be used in most BDM, then I will go with that. I'm learning something new on this Dog.
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
WildBillNick said:
Tks Eric, I will change it to the ATF Type F Fluid. I don't have access to the BDM Trick Shift in this PODUNk ass town that I live in and am bout 100 miles West of Ft. Worth.. I always new that the Type F ATF Fluid was usually for Ford Automatic Transmissions. Anyhow, if that is what shud be used in most BDM, then I will go with that. I'm learning something new on this Dog.
Click to expand...
Yes it is for old Fords. I can't speak to why the type F is better in the primary than other options. Just so happens to be what the clutch manufactures seem to recommend.

Also, just a heads up run a good Transmission oil too, don't run 20w50 in it. If you search around lots of options, most likely you'll have to order it online and just have it delivered to your door.

Redline Shockproof
Or Baker is recommending some spectro oil

Golden Spectro Heavy Duty Platinum 6-Speed Transmission Lubricant 75W-140 1 Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AZH78U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ScdfxbSNMTCQX

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
WildBillNick

WildBillNick

Member
WildBillNick said:
Right on Eric, thats what I will do tomorrow is change that oil out.
Click to expand...
Also, that reminds me then, What type of Transmission oil do you recommend? I currenlty use Mobile 1,
75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube LS. I was talking with a guy from Gateway Cycles and he suggested the 75W-90 Synthetic. I couldnt get ahold of Redline lube
 
WildBillNick

WildBillNick

Member
Th3InfamousI said:
Yes it is for old Fords. I can't speak to why the type F is better in the primary than other options. Just so happens to be what the clutch manufactures seem to recommend.

Also, just a heads up run a good Transmission oil too, don't run 20w50 in it. If you search around lots of options, most likely you'll have to order it online and just have it delivered to your door.

Redline Shockproof
Or Baker is recommending some spectro oil

Golden Spectro Heavy Duty Platinum 6-Speed Transmission Lubricant 75W-140 1 Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AZH78U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ScdfxbSNMTCQX

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
ok Great. I'll just go ahead and order some Redline Shockproof or the Golden Spectro...
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
Here is the test of oil drag vs. warp plate.
1. First, I've been riding for how long? So the oil, no matter the weight, how new, is thin and hot. I still have a hard time finding N. Clue #1.
2. Oil is going to drag the one clutch basket>> if this is an oil filled primary. No matter. Pull clutch lever in and tie it off with a bungee cord.
3. Wet or dry, remove some cover to gain access to the clutch pressure plate that was pushed out by the lever. Start spinning that inner clutch basket by hand.
a. Moves freely once I got it going = Finds N like right now.
b. Hard to move and it never freed up = Warp plate(s).
c. "Most of the time it is hard to get into neutral unless I am rolling a bit." Clue 2. "200 miles ago and as soon as I put it in gear it went right into gear and learched before I let out on the clutch.! Clue #3.

Signed,
NOLTT (cause and effect I can see if from here)
 
WildBillNick

WildBillNick

Member
Sven said:
Here is the test of oil drag vs. warp plate.
1. First, I've been riding for how long? So the oil, no matter the weight, how new, is thin and hot. I still have a hard time finding N. Clue #1.
2. Oil is going to drag the one clutch basket>> if this is an oil filled primary. No matter. Pull clutch lever in and tie it off with a bungee cord.
3. Wet or dry, remove some cover to gain access to the clutch pressure plate that was pushed out by the lever. Start spinning that inner clutch basket by hand.
a. Moves freely once I got it going = Finds N like right now.
b. Hard to move and it never freed up = Warp plate(s).
c. "Most of the time it is hard to get into neutral unless I am rolling a bit." Clue 2. "200 miles ago and as soon as I put it in gear it went right into gear and learched before I let out on the clutch.! Clue #3.

Signed,
NOLTT (cause and effect I can see if from here)
Click to expand...
Tks SVEN, I will sure keep this in mind and give it a try as well. I am going to change my primary oil the first thing I do, and go from there and make the checks you have stated...
 
WildBillNick

WildBillNick

Member
WildBillNick said:
Right on Eric, thats what I will do tomorrow is change that oil out.
Click to expand...
Eric, I got my primary oil changed out from the 20W-50 Syn, and put the ATF Type F in. The ATF sure made a difference. It does shift a bit easier. Didn't lerch after I put it into gear either. But also let it warm up a few more minutes before in-gauging the clutch. It does go into Neutral a little easier. It isn't perfect but its definitely much better. I can live with it. Also while I had the side cover off, I did see the name of Rivera Primo. I take it that is the brand name of clutch???? Also changed the Tranny lube and CHANGE OUT the Mobile 1, 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube LS, PUT IN with the Redline with Shockproof. Everything seems much smoother shifting now. BTW, i DID NOT make any clutch adjustment on the cable.
I appreciate all the Salty Dogs inputs.. Got a lot of good info..
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
WildBillNick said:
Eric, I got my primary oil changed out from the 20W-50 Syn, and put the ATF Type F in. The ATF sure made a difference. It does shift a bit easier. Didn't lerch after I put it into gear either. But also let it warm up a few more minutes before in-gauging the clutch. It does go into Neutral a little easier. It isn't perfect but its definitely much better. I can live with it. Also while I had the side cover off, I did see the name of Rivera Primo. I take it that is the brand name of clutch???? Also changed the Tranny lube and CHANGE OUT the Mobile 1, 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube LS, PUT IN with the Redline with Shockproof. Everything seems much smoother shifting now. BTW, i DID NOT make any clutch adjustment on the cable.
I appreciate all the Salty Dogs inputs.. Got a lot of good info..
Click to expand...
Good deal! Glad to hear it! I had a feeling cable didn't need adjusting. I haven't had to touch mine if I didn't swap the cable out. The 04 system is standard Harley, should have no trouble with it.

Yes 75/90 is a bit too light for these need at least a 140. That shockproof is good stuff should quiet it down considerably.

You are correct Rivera Promos the clutch you can buy all the parts standard Harley softail/big twin

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top