Rear wheel alignment.

Energy One

garyb69

Active Member
So i thought i would be clever this time and take just the rear wheel down to the shop to have a new rear tire fitted rather than the whole bike. Bad move, new tire fitted and even though i marked both sides before i removed the wheel, it just wont line back up even though it's exactly where it was before. I rotate the wheel forward and all looks good, i rotate it back and the belt moves from the left to the right and starts rubbing on the tire. Now whilst i don't intend on doing many miles in reverse, to me something is saying it's not aligned properly. I've spent a good 2 hours on trying to align it today and it's either like it is now or rubs on fender or belt, i just cannot get a happy medium. I have changed from an Avon to an Elite 3 this time but can't see that would make any difference, it's an 04 Ridgeback and any help or advise would be much appreciated as i am not a man of patience and something will get broken if i can't sort this out. Thanks in advance.
 

BWG56

Guru
You need to adjust the adjusters until it runs the same in both directions, it does make sense what your saying because its running crooked right now. What your seeing now is normal for it to run to one side forward and then the other side backward because its not running straight, my 07' has 2 set screws for side, one to adjust and the other to lock the first after you tighten the axle.
 

garyb69

Active Member
You need to adjust the adjusters until it runs the same in both directions, it does make sense what your saying because its running crooked right now. What your seeing now is normal for it to run to one side forward and then the other side backward because its not running straight, my 07' has 2 set screws for side, one to adjust and the other to lock the first after you tighten the axle.
I removed the lock screws and tried the adjust screws umpteen times Ker, i just couldn't get it to line up right no matter how many times i tried. I was getting a bit stressed with it in the end to be honest, maybe tomorrow with a clear head it will all come together.
 

BWG56

Guru
Sometimes its better to walk away till another day, but I would adjust belt tension 1st and then tweek for it to run straight, I try to get the belt to run in the middle of the drive wheel on the tranny. Spinning the tire in both directions.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
1. Run both adjust bolts into the frame, or whatever hides the threads and sends them home.
2. With a nail clipper, snip off the point of a toothpick so a stronger butt up against the frame. At the other end, mark the end of pick where the bolt head ends.
3. Either magic mark or snip the toothpick at the first bolt length to frame is to go to the other side with your measured toothpick length and do they match?
4. Yes. Then, proceed to mark a flat so when it comes around a full turn, you match the other flat with the other bolt head.
5. Once the fine tuning comes in to keep the axle square to the frame, better count flats because the spin around count sort of stopped.
6. Jam a foot down on the belt/chain and this slams the axle to the swing arm, then torque the axle nut.
7. Did you time the belt tooth to the sprocket tooth and replace it at the same wear patterns? No. No wonder it's all whackeydilly trying to ride up on a new wear contact point.
 

Hirter6Pack

Not Quite A Guru
Make sure your pulley is flush and the bolts on your wheel are tight. I don't know if some shops take the pulley off or not.:2cents:
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
Hmmm. My impression was the belt moves closer to tire when reversing almost on every Dog.
Tapio
Negative. My Pit tracks perfect forward OR backward. I made sure when I had it tore down, to align the motor, trans, and rear wheel. If its all straight, the belt won't move in or out but run true either direction. Its a bit more involved, but the results are worth it. Just my .02.
 
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FrankBDPS

Well-Known Member
If our friend Gary is running a used belt it may be stretched longer on one side than the other from previous misalignment. If it runs good going forward that may be the best it gets.

Those fat chicks won't notice anyhow.
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
Hey Gary. I too put an Elite 3 on this change. I had to remove some sidewall lip to gain belt clearance. The Elite's are just a tick wider, or they at least have a wider lip that needs sanding down on some bikes.
 

garyb69

Active Member
Well i had another go at it this evening and i whilst i can get the belt to run straight in both directions with the pulley side of the axle on the mark i made before i removed the wheel, the other side of the axle is about 4mm off the mark i made on that side and through measurement off the frame, the axle is not evenly spaced at both sides although saying that it doesn't look like it was evenly spaced before i removed it now i have taken some measurements. So am i right in saying that if the belt is running perfectly straight in both directions through numerous wheel turns, the wheel should be aligned despite the fact the axle doesn't seem to be evenly spaced on both sides, or do i need to evenly space the axle on both sides and get myself a new belt as it may have distorted due to it not being aligned correctly before i removed it?
 

BWG56

Guru
Like you, I measure mine the first time at the axle and the hole in the swing arm and they were NOT equal from the factory. I would say if your belt is running straight your good and you didn't remove the belt from the bike, so I'm not to sure about the belt wearing crooked so to speak as someone mentioned. Torque the axle and put the 2nd set of set screws in to lock the 1st set and ride that sumnabitch:old2::whoop::chopper:
4mm is a lot though, are you sure it was running straight before you removed it?
 

garyb69

Active Member
Like you, I measure mine the first time at the axle and the hole in the swing arm and they were NOT equal from the factory. I would say if your belt is running straight your good and you didn't remove the belt from the bike, so I'm not to sure about the belt wearing crooked so to speak as someone mentioned. Torque the axle and put the 2nd set of set screws in to lock the 1st set and ride that sumnabitch:old2::whoop::chopper:
4mm is a lot though, are you sure it was running straight before you removed it?
Who knows buddy, it could have been out of line since I bought it I guess. But I'm with you on this one, torque her up and lock screws in tomorrow and I'm off. It's not like it ever handled like a Ducati so I doubt I would ever notice the difference if there was one anyway. What's the worst that can happen? lol.
 

BWG56

Guru
That is why I was asking about the measurement front the swingarm bolt to the axle center.
I tried using a measuring wire to check mine and till you get out far enough to clear everything I didn't think it was accurate anyway. If your off just .020 between the 2 sides at the axel, out by the tire and belt is a much larger/smaller distance.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
That is why I was asking about the measurement front the swingarm bolt to the axle center.
Key word axle center.

Remember the ends are different so the middle has to measured 1 side at a time.

Shannon uses an 8 ft shop lights to line his up haha.

Also while you got the bike jacked up wheels up start it and put it in first gear let the bike idle and watch the tire spin. It's easier to watch how it tracks when it's moving IMO. If it's 4mm you'll see that for sure.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
 

FrankBDPS

Well-Known Member
Key word axle center.

Remember the ends are different so the middle has to measured 1 side at a time.

Shannon uses an 8 ft shop lights to line his up haha.

Also while you got the bike jacked up wheels up start it and put it in first gear let the bike idle and watch the tire spin. It's easier to watch how it tracks when it's moving IMO. If it's 4mm you'll see that for sure.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
Didn't Shannon have a post on how to do that alignment with the light bulbs?
 
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