Spark all over the place.......

Sven

Well-Known Member
Besides changing plugs as suggested:
That liquid manometer is slow acting, so a fan on the engine is needed. He's sort of got it wrong at the end. Balance means level liquids, not one pulling more vac and that's where it stabilizes is an off-sync. The whole point of the mano is even liquid levels.

1. First the cable above the screw cap is that drill under the slide. Once you have that even on the cables; are pulling that slide up, not the slide screw or the idle cable for the linkage, and/or individual idle needle. This initially sets the low running idle. Once you have those cables even on sync, tighten the cable locking nuts.

2. Idle [slide]-screw sync is now run your higher idle of say 1000 rpm, off the slide screw adjustments. Say the idle needs to be higher. The sync will begin all over again, you now mess with the slide screws and now sync them even to the preset idle of 1000 rpm.

3. The last move is the idle air screws. If they were moved out 1-1/2 turns out, then this will show the one screw is not even in the minute turn you made, meaning, moving out from that slight resistance. The screw is out maybe a 32nd off a turn off on the other low needle screw movement turned out. So this too has to be sunk.

See all 3 sync concepts to adjust? = Smooth-Responsive-Fastarts.
 
Last edited:

TapioK

Well-Known Member
Besides changing plugs as suggested:
That liquid manometer is slow acting, so a fan on the engine is needed. He's sort of got it wrong at the end. Balance means level liquids, not one pulling more vac and that's where it stabilizes is an off-sync. The whole point of the mano is even liquid levels.

1. First the cable above the screw cap is that drill under the slide. Once you have that even on the cables; are pulling that slide up, not the slide screw or the idle cable for the linkage, and/or individual idle needle. This initially sets the low running idle. Once you have those cables even on sync, tighten the cable locking nuts.

2. Idle [slide]-screw sync is now run your higher idle of say 1000 rpm, off the slide screw adjustments. Say the idle needs to be higher. The sync will begin all over again, you now mess with the slide screws and now sync them even to the preset idle of 1000 rpm.

3. The last move is the idle air screws. If they were moved out 1-1/2 turns out, then this will show the one screw is not even in the minute turn you made, meaning, moving out from that slight resistance. The screw is out maybe a 32nd off a turn off on the other low needle screw movement turned out. So this too has to be sunk.

See all 3 sync concepts to adjust? = Smooth-Responsive-Fastarts.
So you actually watched it to the end! Well done, I didn't
 

francoblay1

The Spaniard
So far I´ve decided to "capp" it here.... I don´t like the idea of having "different air" other than the mixture coming from the Carbs into the left cylinder... it seems odd... (to me)


I need to find out if I can "detour" also that shite for EPA pourposes.....

and yes Johnny Pag bikes are exactly the same.... just doing some research....

 

francoblay1

The Spaniard
The Johnny Pag ones do not have this shite.... they are closed by a little plate on the heads.... (see plate just behind the exhaust where it attaches to the head)

 

Sven

Well-Known Member
So you actually watched it to the end! Well done, I didn't
I was curious to see it operate, listened to the abstract and oops.

So far I´ve decided to "capp" it here....
Do you have one like that on the other side? Got a mirror and shoot the under the float bowl, find that screw, or are we on the same page no matter on top or on the bottom?

I don´t like the idea of having "different air" other than the mixture coming from the Carbs into the left cylinder... it seems odd... (to me)
No, it's just a closed loop gas tank. Any vapor that is burned, and this vapor is not enough to richen per say, smoother was just that. Close off that air leak.
 
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