cdogg556
Guru
I will do it, but most likely it won't be for a while, the bike it plenty fast enough for me now, the main reason I would do it is because it sounds bad ass! That's what I bought it for, to look and sound good!
Spark all over the place.......
- Thread starter francoblay1
- Start date
francoblay1
The Spaniard
I like this one... Breacher!!!? Lol!
cdogg556
Guru
Look, it works!
Thanks Ker![url=http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php]
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Thanks Ker![url=http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php]
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francoblay1
The Spaniard
Its not about being faster...... its about being "unstoppable" now I can ride two up in traffic without having to pull clutch... its a locomotive ...... and the sound... oh well...I will do it, but most likely it won't be for a while, the bike it plenty fast enough for me now, the main reason I would do it is because it sounds bad ass! That's what I bought it for, to look and sound good!
francoblay1
The Spaniard
cdogg556
Guru
Yes you can![url=http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php]See, you can teach an old dog new tricks
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francoblay1
The Spaniard
you... wankers.... hahahahah
francoblay1
The Spaniard
BWG56
Guru
so... what do you have in there.. a 546 or a 569?
BWG56
Guru
OMG, the time to have put the 585 in would have been when you just had it apartI will do it, but most likely it won't be for a while, the bike it plenty fast enough for me now, the main reason I would do it is because it sounds bad ass! That's what I bought it for, to look and sound good!
cdogg556
Guru
Don't know, I never looked![url=http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php]so... what do you have in there.. a 546 or a 569?
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cdogg556
Guru
[url=http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php]OMG, the time to have put the 585 in would have been when you just had it apart
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Franco...
I am JoeA Generic walk up and fix that bike is YOU.
There are 3 constant moves being sucked out is penultimate loves; main/low/needle holes. That's from column B. Column A says;
1. Air screw near air cleaner boot covering that carb is that booty says I pull in air.
a. Last thing I want to do is close it. Why? More fuel.
b. See how, and while you are away, get the old lady here to read this too, she's going to tune while you are gone. So, see how if you move the screw out, more air is let in?
c. The bike loads up via 3 ways if at idle, start, run is all 3 are creating a huge suck out of those holes and by tuning out more fuel, less fouling is the goal.
2. If the low speed screw is turned out, more fuel is being drawn from this plumbing side is now the screw is at the intake spigot [side of the carb] and look for that screw(s) that is between the head and carb someplace? So this screw is to be turned in, listen [literally] because these are your carb sync tools. The more the screw is turned in, the less gas, the more the idle cable [someplace] needs to be turned up. You hope the idle drops, and this leans out the 1 hole, but the other 2 will flow plenty.
3. My ears are going to take a beating, meaning, I will have one plug out of the one side of the bike. I ignore the whoosh sound out of the hole, plus, that plug is grounded away from that hole, the tune is outside so the garden hose is on and ready: something gets too close to the whoosh. That, or back to some sensitive ears, you listen for the drop on one side? Move to the other side and drop the idle that way with the other screw. Lots of combos.
4. Or, hit and miss this way. That one S&S carb vid where 'gorilla' comes in on that air screw? As soon as you feel it resist, stop! This is where that oring is your safety net, but it's so minute touching that oring, not the body of the tapered hole with the needle. That's the no-no. Never touch needle to body. So you are way from barking down on that screw at all. Let the old lady try it. She'll know when that screw begins to stop.
a. The sync tool would have dialed in the needles, but now you are at a 1/4 turn out from a seat. So count how many turns in from this starting point they have. Hit the resistance and stop, not the body to needle and stop. What was the count in?
b. Scribe on the plastic air cleaner >>> How many turns out from a 'resistance?' Was it 1-1/2 turns in? Then, that's how many turns out. Nothing complicated now, right? These are your base numbers something is out of tune, at least you know this setting is close enough.
c. Remember, base needle setting is going to start the bike well, but your initial 1/4 out from resistance may say otherwise, thus the idle cable rise. And I'm assuming this needle is on the head side.
d. Air side, run your base numbers going in, scribe that base number into the air box, here we are back to moving the air screw out, but very few turns out or there goes the needle out the hole. See how the needle on the head side moves in?
5. Possible Air box snout/booty/cover? We want to add more air to the intake, the less that air fights going in, the more it moves past the holes is this intake is a balance. So right now, you get on the gas, it will take off. A cover removed, it may bog and recover.
a. Remove this snout, a screen cover? Something attached to the air box assembly, not the access door to the air cleaner.
b. If say the access door to the air cleaner element can be removed, the filter is going nowhere, needing more parts keeping the element in, then yes, remove this access panel. Ride normal, no bog. Possible lag before taking off, but who cares, cleaner plugs!
c. Look for a sneeze screen, a fire retardant backfire blocker, some sort of screen on the clean side of the filter element. If the screen is just mounted with some plastic tabs melted over it, no integrity loss you razor that off and remove the sneeze screen. More lean, if not a smoother ride.
I am JoeA Generic walk up and fix that bike is YOU.
There are 3 constant moves being sucked out is penultimate loves; main/low/needle holes. That's from column B. Column A says;
1. Air screw near air cleaner boot covering that carb is that booty says I pull in air.
a. Last thing I want to do is close it. Why? More fuel.
b. See how, and while you are away, get the old lady here to read this too, she's going to tune while you are gone. So, see how if you move the screw out, more air is let in?
c. The bike loads up via 3 ways if at idle, start, run is all 3 are creating a huge suck out of those holes and by tuning out more fuel, less fouling is the goal.
2. If the low speed screw is turned out, more fuel is being drawn from this plumbing side is now the screw is at the intake spigot [side of the carb] and look for that screw(s) that is between the head and carb someplace? So this screw is to be turned in, listen [literally] because these are your carb sync tools. The more the screw is turned in, the less gas, the more the idle cable [someplace] needs to be turned up. You hope the idle drops, and this leans out the 1 hole, but the other 2 will flow plenty.
3. My ears are going to take a beating, meaning, I will have one plug out of the one side of the bike. I ignore the whoosh sound out of the hole, plus, that plug is grounded away from that hole, the tune is outside so the garden hose is on and ready: something gets too close to the whoosh. That, or back to some sensitive ears, you listen for the drop on one side? Move to the other side and drop the idle that way with the other screw. Lots of combos.
4. Or, hit and miss this way. That one S&S carb vid where 'gorilla' comes in on that air screw? As soon as you feel it resist, stop! This is where that oring is your safety net, but it's so minute touching that oring, not the body of the tapered hole with the needle. That's the no-no. Never touch needle to body. So you are way from barking down on that screw at all. Let the old lady try it. She'll know when that screw begins to stop.
a. The sync tool would have dialed in the needles, but now you are at a 1/4 turn out from a seat. So count how many turns in from this starting point they have. Hit the resistance and stop, not the body to needle and stop. What was the count in?
b. Scribe on the plastic air cleaner >>> How many turns out from a 'resistance?' Was it 1-1/2 turns in? Then, that's how many turns out. Nothing complicated now, right? These are your base numbers something is out of tune, at least you know this setting is close enough.
c. Remember, base needle setting is going to start the bike well, but your initial 1/4 out from resistance may say otherwise, thus the idle cable rise. And I'm assuming this needle is on the head side.
d. Air side, run your base numbers going in, scribe that base number into the air box, here we are back to moving the air screw out, but very few turns out or there goes the needle out the hole. See how the needle on the head side moves in?
5. Possible Air box snout/booty/cover? We want to add more air to the intake, the less that air fights going in, the more it moves past the holes is this intake is a balance. So right now, you get on the gas, it will take off. A cover removed, it may bog and recover.
a. Remove this snout, a screen cover? Something attached to the air box assembly, not the access door to the air cleaner.
b. If say the access door to the air cleaner element can be removed, the filter is going nowhere, needing more parts keeping the element in, then yes, remove this access panel. Ride normal, no bog. Possible lag before taking off, but who cares, cleaner plugs!
c. Look for a sneeze screen, a fire retardant backfire blocker, some sort of screen on the clean side of the filter element. If the screen is just mounted with some plastic tabs melted over it, no integrity loss you razor that off and remove the sneeze screen. More lean, if not a smoother ride.
TapioK
Well-Known Member
Does this carb look somewhat familiar?
I think the bike has a copy of Keihin carb.
http://www.keihincarbs.com/tips/gate.html
This is pretty much how I got rid of flat spot just above iddle on my Fat Boy.
I think the bike has a copy of Keihin carb.
http://www.keihincarbs.com/tips/gate.html
This is pretty much how I got rid of flat spot just above iddle on my Fat Boy.
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francoblay1
The Spaniard
I will post some pics.... these carbs have an air/fuel mixture screw (needle pointed) like our S&S ones, these screws are located at the bottom of the Carbs.
Pics later today as soon as I have a chance. thanks guys.
Pics later today as soon as I have a chance. thanks guys.
francoblay1
The Spaniard
Butterfly.
Pics this afternoon.
Pics this afternoon.