Getting rid of battery and EHC

Energy One

BigDickPitBull

Active Member
Ok so just got back from a wet and cold road trip. Rode from stl down to Beloxi, Ms....get there and she gave up on me.....thought it was the EHC....but I believe starter...is dead. So hauled her back home. So now I'm think n ...will send off starter to WSW. I want get rid of EHC. I know most of the options. I already have custom apes. So I don't want to chop my grips. And I like the controls. So my biggest question is what kind of switches are in the controls? Anything in paticulari need to,look at for this design? I am going to delete battery and build and install ultra capacitor system, uploadfromtaptalk1423844594069.png I'm sure will need to change ignition, recommendations? So basically a rewire But want to keep my controls
 

TapioK

Well-Known Member
Not my field those supercaps, but what would be the point in bike? If I understand correctly how those work, they would give a lot of juice to starter for a very short time. Then if bike starts they would recharge in a few secs. But why would you need that on bike? Unless you start, ride a mile, kill engine, start, drive a mile.... My knowledge of those may be old and not correct anymore.
Call me old idiot, but I would think twice before adding more uncertain electronics to my Dog.
 

TapioK

Well-Known Member
More reliable? You mean it can survive overcharge from bad VR. 6 cell caps works 15 volts, so do you need a special VR or is there more electronics to take care of that? My batteries last for a few years, if charging is working correctly, and cost around 100$...and it can be replaced everywhere.
But interesting project you have there.
 

BigDickPitBull

Active Member
Drop in replacement for a battery. VR....stays the same....no other electronics needed. Going to,install on a harley first
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
You could use a relay on the start button to 12v to the starter using the start button ground as a trigger. You could also use a relay in the same way for the lights and turn signals. The horn is a piece of cake just hot wire it and use the horn button ground to ground it out.

Not the way I would go but you can do it and still keep your controls. Good luck..
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
BILL WOULD GO OLD SCHOOL:)sorry Bill, I had to:cheers:
You know me well buddy.:up: I would just find a nice set of HD controls and rewire it old school so you have minimal wiring and problems. If you go the way I explained above it will be better than the org ECH but you will have 3 - 4 relays and their wires to deal with instead of 1. Someone on here did it that way maybe he can help ya out.
 

BigDickPitBull

Active Member
Don't know if u can see where Conroe contaxt bars, but bats are 1.5" so they have been machined so the controls fit....I do not want to Jack up my bars
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
You know me well buddy.:up: I would just find a nice set of HD controls and rewire it old school so you have minimal wiring and problems. If you go the way I explained above it will be better than the org ECH but you will have 3 - 4 relays and their wires to deal with instead of 1. Someone on here did it that way maybe he can help ya out.
I found the post: http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/general/68937-hand-control-switches-old-school-rewire-2.html

Page 2 Mr Wright did it with relays. You could eliminate the horn relay and use the power relay for the starter to eliminate that one. That would leave you with just 3 relays. I would just use 2 breakers instead of fuses. A 30 amp and a 15 amp will do it. The 30 amp for the power/starter relay and everything else on the 15 amp. Nice l oo kin scoot!
 
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bearman

Active Member
... I would just use 2 breakers instead of fuses.....
Breakers are a bad idea with the history of our Voltage Regulators. Breakers can fail closed, and when they do, a bad VR will smoke everything else.
Absolutely want simple.......
Can't be done AND keep Big Dog hand controls from 2005 up.
If I remember correctly, supposedly the later Big Dog controls can only handle 250 miliwatts. That means that anything powered through them can not excede 1/4 amp at 12 volts. So they should only be used to power a relay with a coil draw of 1/4 amps or less. Your generic auto parts store relay uses more than that.
You can uses something like a Badlands module to make your hand controls work.
 
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