OK I’ve been watching this for a while and can answer some of the mysteries on the stand – having done a couple of these; I can tell you what I learned.
1. Yelowvette – Yes you installed it correctly. It seems that Ness (or the manuf) has changed the design – don’t know if on purpose or accident. The older ones stand normally and on the newer ones the claw points too far forward. You really can’t control the angle because it’s controlled by the flat spot where the set screw has to lock.
You can’t tell a new one from an old one by looking at it – Looks like Zen bought his recently, but it was new old stock.
2. Unscrewing the leg to make it longer will raise the bike up – Not always. Depends on the bike – On a chop or ridge yes, on a K9 not so much. If you sit on your bike and open the kickstand, it goes down and out. It’s the out factor. If you look at where the mounting holes are on the frame of a K9 they are vertical – on a ridge they are angled to the left. When angled to the left the actual leg is more vertical compared to a K9 so up means the bike will go up. On a K9 making the leg longer will change where the kickstand lands on the ground. Short, close to bike, Long, further away from the bike with minimal vertical increase.
3. Spacers – If you took a 1” spacer and put it between the frame and bike, it will not change the angle of the bike, only the contact point on the ground. You are increase length, but also increase distance of the ‘out factor”. A tapered spacer is the only way to go. The Joker Machine are cheap and work great – it’s the only way to change the angle. A quick easy fix using the stock BDM kickstand (which I prefer).
4. I have the same bike, same kickstand but my bike leans more than his - most often than not your shocks are adjusted too high. A slight ride height change will influence the lean.
Bottom line – you don’t have to spend a lot of money – get the spacer – works just fine or stock or Ness. Been using them on many bikes, very happy.