2011 clutch
- Thread starter Srodden
- Start date
KaptinAmerika
Guru
This was bigdogtech01's recommendation to a forum member with a soft pull
"First, make sure your cable is loosened all the way up at the adjuster and the cable is up inside the perch like it should be at the lever.
Then, make sure that the ball and ramp assembly is seated correctly. The part that is sticking out with the internal threads, should be sticking out a good 1/16"-1/8" beyond the outer part of the ramp assembly. This make sense?
If its flush or pushed in beyond the ramp, you need to pull it out so it's not.
Once you know the ball and ramp is seated correctly you can then turn your pushrod in till it's seated lightly and just a hair more. Then back it out a turn or so, and back in again to a light seat and keep it there. DO NOT back it out a 1/4 turn yet.
Go to your cable adjustment and tighten the cable up till you have no play left at your clutch lever. Make sure you have no play at lever by pulling out on the cable up near the lever and at the same time try moving the lever till you have zero play b tightening the cable adjustment.
Once you have zero play at lever, go back down to your pushrod and back it out a 1/4 turn and lock down the lock nut.
Now go back up to your clutch lever and verify you have 1/16"-1/8" of free play at the lever. You want it closer to an 1/8" so you may have to loosen the cable adjustment up a half turn or so if needed."
"First, make sure your cable is loosened all the way up at the adjuster and the cable is up inside the perch like it should be at the lever.
Then, make sure that the ball and ramp assembly is seated correctly. The part that is sticking out with the internal threads, should be sticking out a good 1/16"-1/8" beyond the outer part of the ramp assembly. This make sense?
If its flush or pushed in beyond the ramp, you need to pull it out so it's not.
Once you know the ball and ramp is seated correctly you can then turn your pushrod in till it's seated lightly and just a hair more. Then back it out a turn or so, and back in again to a light seat and keep it there. DO NOT back it out a 1/4 turn yet.
Go to your cable adjustment and tighten the cable up till you have no play left at your clutch lever. Make sure you have no play at lever by pulling out on the cable up near the lever and at the same time try moving the lever till you have zero play b tightening the cable adjustment.
Once you have zero play at lever, go back down to your pushrod and back it out a 1/4 turn and lock down the lock nut.
Now go back up to your clutch lever and verify you have 1/16"-1/8" of free play at the lever. You want it closer to an 1/8" so you may have to loosen the cable adjustment up a half turn or so if needed."
Srodden
Well-Known Member
Thanks Curtis I searched couldn't find much however I did find a post someone described this procedure from an 09 manual i will try it I've tried everything else.
It's always had a creep can't find neutral right from the factory or just from being stored and not ridden one of the two.
It's always had a creep can't find neutral right from the factory or just from being stored and not ridden one of the two.
KaptinAmerika
Guru
They are finicky clutches and the soft pull just makes the adjustment even more finite
bigdogtech01
Well-Known Member
Yes the adjustments can be a pain and sometimes need to be done twice to get it perfect, but it will work...Baker will tell you the Easy Pull ball and ramp setup for 08-up will only work with the 9 plate clutch setup, but this is false...it will work with both 9 and 12...I have installed several Easy Pull ramp setups for customers and they work great, or the other way around and put 12 plate clutches into 08-up models...just need to take your time and do adjustment correctly.
bigdogtech01
Well-Known Member
Another thing I was just thinking of...if you change clutch cables, make sure the internal length is the same...you need 2 7/8" of cable sticking out from end with adjustment completely collapsed and not attached to the lever. Otherwise, you will just end up with problems such as creeping, and even slippage.
BWG56
Guru
I have the 12 plate clutch with the soft pull and I just nailed it on the adjustment, I can't remember how many yrs its been since I could pull neutral sitting still at a red light, it even drifts backwards in gear while holding the clutch in.
:choppersmiley:
Srodden
Well-Known Member
Update I've done the adjustment using the procedure given by Andrew. First I did 1/4 turn out , had creep no neutral.
Did 1/4 turn in no creep got neutral clutch slipped under heavy load only but ran good so I backed rod out 1/8 turn which means rod was turned in 1/8 of turn instead of backed out 1/4 turn per instructions.
I will take it for another small ride tomorrow to test this out out but I think I'm close. I don't want a clutch that slips under load because what's the fun of all the horsepower if you can't use it.
BTW this bike only has 500 miles on it
Did 1/4 turn in no creep got neutral clutch slipped under heavy load only but ran good so I backed rod out 1/8 turn which means rod was turned in 1/8 of turn instead of backed out 1/4 turn per instructions.
I will take it for another small ride tomorrow to test this out out but I think I'm close. I don't want a clutch that slips under load because what's the fun of all the horsepower if you can't use it.
BTW this bike only has 500 miles on it
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Srodden
Well-Known Member
I already put them up check my posts want that long ago.
Here you go http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/general/58096-2011-mastiff.html
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BWG56
Guru
Why didn't you go for snug, no 1/4 in or out?
Srodden
Well-Known Member
Still might do snug I will see how it does with 1/8 in.
BWG56
Guru
Scott, with 1/8 in, you have pressure on the throw out bearing all the time.