Clutch issue
- Thread starter Nunov24
- Start date
boomer4444
Active Member
your ball and ramp most likely slipped , easy to check and simple to fix,
KaptinAmerika
Guru
You may be shocked, and pissed, once you fill the primary.
Juz Sayin
Juz Sayin
JeffM
Active Member
Yep x 2:2thumbs:
Easy fix if that is it.
If not and one of your cables is too long, the little balls on the end of the cable are soldered on, so easy to shorten.:up:
popsicle069
Member
Nunov24,
It almost looks like you have the pressure plate put in backwards on the first picture in post #6. There is a lip on the pressure plate and that goes out with the spacer ring then the diaphram spring. The spacer ring and diaphram spring will fill the lip on the face of the pressure plate. Also measure the thickness of the pressure plate. New should measure 0.375.
It almost looks like you have the pressure plate put in backwards on the first picture in post #6. There is a lip on the pressure plate and that goes out with the spacer ring then the diaphram spring. The spacer ring and diaphram spring will fill the lip on the face of the pressure plate. Also measure the thickness of the pressure plate. New should measure 0.375.
BWG56
Guru
I'm running into same problem, adjusted cable twice and the other day the lever had 1/2" play in it, thought the clutch nut came loose again. I pulled the primary cover and the clutch pack and its tight, so not thinking clutch nut, I went back and adjusted push rod and then cable and when I turn the handle bars from right to left, the lever gets tight one way and loose the other. WTF I'm thinking maybe cable?
I'm thinking of looking at the clutch plates, there original with 14,000 miles.
Any suggestions?
I'm thinking of looking at the clutch plates, there original with 14,000 miles.
Any suggestions?
BigDogBro1
Made in the USA
There is an overall clutch pack STACK HEIGHT if I recall that needs to be checked as well as the disc spring overall height.
9 plate (soft pull clutch with special ball ramp parts) or stock 13 plate.
Drop the exhaust and pull the clutch actuator (pulley cover) OFF and clean and check the ball ramp mechanism.
You need a service manual to reference if you don't have one.
I'm not sure what SETSCREW the earlier post was referencing in the clutch handle area. The ONLY setscrews that I can think of in that assembly is the one which LOCKS the clutch lever assembly to the handlebar once you adjust it for riding angle and the one that reduces the lever shakeyness (nylon tipped spring ball plunger allen head screw).
You also need to include your bikes model YEAR in your STATS so we all know what you are working on.
9 plate (soft pull clutch with special ball ramp parts) or stock 13 plate.
Drop the exhaust and pull the clutch actuator (pulley cover) OFF and clean and check the ball ramp mechanism.
You need a service manual to reference if you don't have one.
I'm not sure what SETSCREW the earlier post was referencing in the clutch handle area. The ONLY setscrews that I can think of in that assembly is the one which LOCKS the clutch lever assembly to the handlebar once you adjust it for riding angle and the one that reduces the lever shakeyness (nylon tipped spring ball plunger allen head screw).
You also need to include your bikes model YEAR in your STATS so we all know what you are working on.
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BigDogBro1
Made in the USA
Your clutch BASKET could be cracking in the backside support webs.
Or, the cable BALL end or HOOP end are pulling OFF the cable making the cable seem longer.
BWG56
Guru
I've been running the 12 stock clutch with the soft pull ramps for about 4 years and the adjustment is touchy but doable, I will pull the clutch pack out and check discs for wear and the basket for cracks, I do have a new 9 clutch pack on hand, and I was thinking cable, but after adjusting clutch rod, the cable adjustment wasn't way out. Sounds like I'm going to have to pull the ramps out and inspect ferrule or just replace cable at that time.
Can I see if the clutch basket is cracked, with the clutch disc's out or do I need to remove clutch nut.:angry:
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KaptinAmerika
Guru
Because the heavy oil is going to make those warn friction plates stick together again.
KaptinAmerika
Guru
Your going through the motions so by all means follow everyone else's advice and finish checking everything and setting up the clutch the way it should be, you will want that experience anyway when you have to put in a new clutch pack.
I've just been through the worn clutch pack thing with other customers and it usually, based on the pics you posted and your general description of sluggishness etc, ends up in a new clutch pack.
The oil isn't the real problem and I don't generally recommend changing the type of oil unless an owner/rider really knows their ride and can adjust accordingly. The real issue with a sticky clutch pack is the worn friction plates. Once a few get worn out of spec enough they will ultimately start sticking together and causing issues.
If you have been satisfied with your clutch up until now there is no real reason to switch to the Bandit unless you really feel you want it.
The quickest, easiest solution is to replace the clutch pack, adjust the clutch properly and get back on her and ride.
I've just been through the worn clutch pack thing with other customers and it usually, based on the pics you posted and your general description of sluggishness etc, ends up in a new clutch pack.
The oil isn't the real problem and I don't generally recommend changing the type of oil unless an owner/rider really knows their ride and can adjust accordingly. The real issue with a sticky clutch pack is the worn friction plates. Once a few get worn out of spec enough they will ultimately start sticking together and causing issues.
If you have been satisfied with your clutch up until now there is no real reason to switch to the Bandit unless you really feel you want it.
The quickest, easiest solution is to replace the clutch pack, adjust the clutch properly and get back on her and ride.
BigDogBro1
Made in the USA
You will see the clutch basket carrier webs once the clutch pack is removed. A new clutch pack from Energy One here on the forum. They have BDM clutch packs already pre-assembled to the proper stack height and ready for installation.
You could try running B&M Trick Shift automatic transmission fluid (Ford F-type). Some here claimed it helped reduce or stop the clutch from slipping. I have been running Ford type-F fluid the last few years and it seems to work well.
You could try running B&M Trick Shift automatic transmission fluid (Ford F-type). Some here claimed it helped reduce or stop the clutch from slipping. I have been running Ford type-F fluid the last few years and it seems to work well.
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BigDogBro1
Made in the USA
This will help give you an understanding of whats involved.
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/general/21369-dreaded-clutch-basket-broken.html
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/help-wanted/5097-clutch-basket-hub-broke.html
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/how/2329-how-bandit-superclutch-carrier-install.html
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/general/21369-dreaded-clutch-basket-broken.html
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/help-wanted/5097-clutch-basket-hub-broke.html
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/how/2329-how-bandit-superclutch-carrier-install.html
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BWG56
Guru
No cracks in basket and clutch disc's looked good and upon more inspection of parts before I remove clutch nut , I seen this retaining ring popped out of the groove for the throw out bearing and it allowed the bearing to move in and out about.030. I had another one so I replaced it and I will test drive when the rains are gone, but the lever after adjustment seems to be staying
