Real Big Dog Owner

Energy One

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Well I guess I just became a real Big Dog owner! :eek:
Been working on a 2004 Chopper, Electrical problems on and off now for weeks. Changed out a EHC, Bought a new battery, fixed some cut wires going to the left back turn single. Every time you turn on the key switch not sure what to expect? :angry: :bang: :loony: Today got a Fluke 87 from work unplugged the 50 pin printer connector (WHY WOULD ANYONE USE THIS ON A CYCLE) to check for ohms. After many test not sure how any thing worked. Should get 0.5 ohms when hitting switches. YEH RIGHT Only got close to that with the front brake switch. Look like every connector is only working about 45%. That combined with only 5 vdc is not a good combo. Excuse me while I VENT. :angry: :angry: :angry: I agree with some other post the EHC gets to much blame. Now for the question Should I clean every connector and use DI-ELECTRIC grease or just cut them out and SOLDER the wires? :loony: Thanks for your response in advance Rottweiler
 
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Iman

Well-Known Member
Welcome from Coastal SC. Someone who has wired a bike will chime in soon
 

firedog19

Active Member
Since dielectric grease is non conductive you will only compound the problem. They do have the pdm kit for 04s now or wild steed is supposed to bringing out something soon that is less expensive but will be solid
 

bearman

Active Member
I vote solder and heat shrink. if done correctly you won't need to worry about the connections again.
 

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Update

Still stock EHC and wiring. Hard to think strait some times when your so piss off. Question 1) Without power to the circuit boards at the switches can you ohm them out? I would think not? Question 2) Are the boards 12 vdc or 5 vdc? I have a print for the bike but not sure it just shows the color and it coming from a box? Example Left Handle Bar Controls, only has 5 wires, pin 19 Ground, ( ALL SWITCHES SHORT TO GROUND ) and 4 others inputs wires. pin 2 Horn, pin 1 High Beam, pin 24 Low Beam, and pin 3 Left Turn. Should I read ohms between PIN 19 and the other pins at the EHC connector unplugged when button are pushed? IF so I am not getting that. But when I turn on the key switch with all wires plugged in and battery connected some times every thing works ok? horn blows high and low beam works? OR I get four ways all turn singles flash also oil light and neutral light flash, next time even the red lights on spedo flash? next time it works fine again without changing any thing. WTF It does this with two different EHC units. I did fine some bad pins in the 50 pin EHC connector. I bought a new wiring harness on Ebay that includes that connector but did not install yet. Still trying to understand how system works first before I make it worse! Thanks to all for you input. :)
 

chacha

Chaff Your EHC!!
Calendar Participant
These things (with the OEM Harness controller) are very susceptible to ground problems. Suggest checking for ground faults based on your last description.

Also, do a search on EHC lights to see if there are any fault lights coming up on the EHC.

Good luck...I ripped my EHC out years ago and went with a WP controller and a harley harness.
 

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
10-12-13 update

Back at it again. Checking ohms at 50 pin EHC connector. Pin 19 is ground. Checked that male pin from EHC to EHC ground wire to battery got 0.5 ohms. Then checked at female connector #19 ground to #1 High beam switch got readings in K ohms, checked to #2 horn got down to 350 ohms and as high as 1.3 K ohms. Should I read 0.5 ohms ??? If so my problem is in the harness correct?
 

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
update #2 10-12-13

Thanks for the post.

Got a chance to work on bike for a while today. Started ohming out wires, still not sure if you can ohm switches with no power to the circuit boards they go thru or not? Best reading was 300 ohms with switches. Took out rear light and checked wires to it from 50 pin female connector to light, very poor if any ohms took apart small connector next to battery and ohmed again have it to there. took can of air and blew out all dielectric grease. Now they ring good all the way thru to light plug. Blew out all dielectric grease and put it all back together turn on key WOW bike starts every thing works! Did learn stuff today, I left the back light bulb out and bike did not start. When I put it back in all was good. EHC must check or test all circuit's first every time. Good Info. One bad connection and your screwed. Will have to put new harness in bike when I have more time. Might try the smaller connector with out dielectric grease first. Don't fell like making that many solder joints and heat shrink if it works. My opinion on dielectric grease if you must use it put it on the outside of connectors only.
 

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
I vote solder and heat shrink. if done correctly you won't need to worry about the connections again.
After reading more on the ( Anyone ever re-wire the whole bike? ) post thinking of just Eliminating The EHC. Sounds like most of the wiring can be used over again. Speedo was a worry but if that still works without the EHC sound like I might try it. I was thinking of getting a 12 vdc 30amp relay and use the same key switch to pick it up. Run lights and ignition though it. Install a starter button somewhere wire the compression releases to it. Now if I could find a way for the brake and turn singles to work with the same switches that would be awesome! :cheers: :2thumbs:
 

Dakotabos

Well-Known Member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
I feel your pain:bang: I was hoping it was a bad EHC but there is some electric gremlin running in your bike. Wire plus or PDM won’t do you any good if you have a bad ground or a short. Did you get the wire diagram I sent you? Check your wires more and check twice. With someone installing LED lights and then taking them off it causes issues if it wasn’t done right.
Wish you were closer we could have a lot of beers and figure it out :cheers:
 

Viking

Biker
That stupid printer connector is there for a reason, did you know? It can be plugged in to a tester and you can test every circuit on your bike. Works great, last long time, and problems found in a heart beat.:2thumbs:
 

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Big Thanks

Well it is back RUNNING again, :up: Found the ground wire coming from the Annunciator / Tachometer was the gremlin. :angry: :bang: BIG THANKS to Curtis and Michael for all your help and patience. I was about to lose mine. :angry: You guy's are great. Lots of good info. on this site. Many many more miles to go. It's a long long road ahead. :cheers:
 

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Same Shit Different Day

Back to flashing lights. :bang: Looks like a wire plus or M-unit in bikes future. :angry:
 

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
damn:bang:

I was about to :cheers::2thumbs::cheers:
But DAMN :bang:
Yea when I found the ground wire that was grounded it kind of made sense. When bike works every thing works. Next time back to flashing lights? Without changing anything. One time it's just the power up fault and the next time it's every fault at the same time. It like playing a slot machine yes I lose at them also. Going to let it sit for a while before I cut all the wires. Waiting on Curtis to get his E-pac done. Also looking into the M-Unit but not sure how to get the rear turn singles and brake lights to work with it?
 

CHOPTOP45

Well-Known Member
Thats a easy fix try the m unit i did and haven't had any problems since research the form for the thread that thors and g dog pitbull did read a couple times and you'll see every thing works as should plus you have a security alarm you can arm or dis arm. there's pictures of my rewire under M unit installed .
 
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Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
M-unit

Thats a easy fix try the m unit i did and haven't had any problems since research the form for the thread that thors and g dog pitbull did read a couple times and you'll see every thing works as should plus you have a security alarm you can arm or dis arm. there's pictures of my rewire under M unit installed .
I did look at the post but didn't see how to wire up rear turn/brake lights from the M-unit? Also just looked at your M unit installed Damn nice job! :up:
What are the two black boxes next to the M-unit? Are they relays? Also the unit under the M-unit Is that used for the rear brake/turn signals?
 
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