front brake question

[Scottie]

So after putting my "new" chromed wheels back on the K9, now I hear a 'grinding' sound from the front brake rotor. I think I put the shims back in correctly, the rotor looks aligned to me. But how the hell you're supposed to see the difference in 10000ths of an inch
I had one hell of a time trying to bleed the front brakes also.
So i took the caliper back off the rotor and squeezed the handle, i can feel it move a little, but not see it move, its so little movement. After that, the pads don't seem to expand open. I can take a screwdriver and pry them apart, but the pukes don't seem to be seated all the way in, but its all 4 of them so I don't know if thats the way it's suppose to be. Any advise here would be greatly appreciated, I'm just starting my DIY career :2thumbs:

 

[Little-Boo]

Well Scottie your first mistake was to pull the handle with the caliper off the bike. What you need to do is start all over. Remove the master cylinder cap and remove some fluid with a turkey baster or big a siring or loosen the bleeder screw and using the brake pads push and collapse the pistons all the way in. Now install your caliper and center it, don't touch the fucking handle yet. Use whatever mines you have to center the caliper ie measuring tape or measuring caliper, your finger nail it doesn't matter just so it is centered and that the spacers on correct both top and bottom. Once that is done close the bleeder valve and add Dot 5 brake fluid to the reservoir and now you can pull the handle. You will see bubbles come up to the master cylinder reservoir keep pulling the handle in and out until the bubbles get small. Now you can bleed the caliper using the bleeder screw until all bubble are gone. Make sure you always have fluid in the reservoir, don't let it go dry or you will have to the bleeding process over. It take time so be patient and you get it done.

Hope that helps

Carlos :2thumbs:

 

[pknowles]

Well Scottie your first mistake was to pull the handle with the caliper off the bike. What you need to do is start all over. Remove the master cylinder cap and remove some fluid with a turkey baster or big a siring or loosen the bleeder screw and using the brake pads push and collapse the pistons all the way in. Now install your caliper and center it, don't touch the fucking handle yet. Use whatever mines you have to center the caliper ie measuring tape or measuring caliper, your finger nail it doesn't matter just so it is centered and that the spacers on correct both top and bottom. Once that is done close the bleeder valve and add Dot 5 brake fluid to the reservoir and now you can pull the handle. You will see bubbles come up to the master cylinder reservoir keep pulling the handle in and out until the bubbles get small. Now you can bleed the caliper using the bleeder screw until all bubble are gone. Make sure you always have fluid in the reservoir, don't let it go dry or you will have to the bleeding process over. It take time so be patient and you get it done.

Hope that helps

Carlos :2thumbs:

Just helped a friend do his and it takes a LONG TIME TO GET ALL THE AIR OUT of the lines AND A LOT OF PUMPING THE HANDLE. Those power bleeder systems seem the way to go. Damn good explanation Carlos

 

[Scottie]

Thanks for the answers fellas

 

[BWG56]

You will not really see the pistons move but will feel them move. The pistons put pressure on the pads only when you pull the handle but they DO NOT move back away from the disc, they only relax their grip. Take your index finger and your thumb and pinch your arm with them and then relax. Pistons work the same way on the pads.

 

[Scottie]

I was just concerned because I could hear the front pads rubbing when coasting. I could not hear that before I removed everything.