Leaking Transmission??

[Tdubb]

It's not a bad job if you have all the tools..the pulley nut is LEFT hand thread, so clockwise to loosen, and it's 1 7/8", might be able to find that socket at Autozone or someplace like that.
-Remove exhaust
-remove clutch pushrod cover off pulley cover.
-remove clutch pushrod (DO NOT move your clutch lever while this is apart)
-remove pulley cover.
-remove pulley nut (probably have to use an air impact, unless it's loose)
-remove drive pulley.
-remove pulley spacer from within leaking main seal.
-use seal puller to remove main seal (note small O-ring/quad seal under pulley spacer)

--All seals can be purchased from an H-D dealer using mid '90's to early 2000 5 spd H-D's, such as FLT's, FLST, FXST

--While you have it apart, check for any end play, in and out, up and down...if play exists, then you might need transmission bearings.
--Also check condition of pulley itself while apart...inner splines for wear.

OK Andrew I think I'm going to tackle this myself. Just a few questions.

1. The clutch pushrod cover removal - does it just pry off? How easily? A little worried about denting or scratching the pulley cover.

2. The service manual says to "fully collapse the clutch adjuster cable" before I remove the clutch pushrod cover. You're saying to skip that step correct? So I don't need to adjust my clutch later?

3. When pulling the clutch pushrod it looks like on the end there is a wiper seal. Will that stay on during the removal of the pushrod? Looks like I would wand to pull the pulley cover and pushrod at the same time by looking at the exploded drawing (64)

.

4. Do I need the baker pulley locking kit to remove the pulley nut?

5. You say to remove the spacer within the seal. Is it pressed in or will it come out easily?

6. Is the o-ring and quad seal one unit? Do I buy it as one unit? If not, replace both?

7. Finally, should I replace the exhaust gaskets?

 

[bigdogtech01]

OK Andrew I think I'm going to tackle this myself. Just a few questions.

1. The clutch pushrod cover removal - does it just pry off? How easily? A little worried about denting or scratching the pulley cover.

2. The service manual says to "fully collapse the clutch adjuster cable" before I remove the clutch pushrod cover. You're saying to skip that step correct? So I don't need to adjust my clutch later?

3. When pulling the clutch pushrod it looks like on the end there is a wiper seal. Will that stay on during the removal of the pushrod? Looks like I would wand to pull the pulley cover and pushrod at the same time by looking at the exploded drawing (64)

.

4. Do I need the baker pulley locking kit to remove the pulley nut?

5. You say to remove the spacer within the seal. Is it pressed in or will it come out easily?

6. Is the o-ring and quad seal one unit? Do I buy it as one unit? If not, replace both?

7. Finally, should I replace the exhaust gaskets?

1. The clutch pushrod cover removal - does it just pry off? How easily? A little worried about denting or scratching the pulley cover.
It should just spin off by hand, but if not, take a piece of wood and a hammer...place piece of wood against one of the flats, then hit wood with hammer so it's forcing it to turn counterclockwise.

2. The service manual says to "fully collapse the clutch adjuster cable" before I remove the clutch pushrod cover. You're saying to skip that step correct? So I don't need to adjust my clutch later?
No, you will have to do a full clutch adjustment later...remove pushrod from cover/ball and ramp assy by loosening pushrod jam nut and then threading pushrod all the way out, and then pull it out....you will end up having to loosen your cable up as well once you go to put it all back together.

3. When pulling the clutch pushrod it looks like on the end there is a wiper seal. Will that stay on during the removal of the pushrod? Looks like I would wand to pull the pulley cover and pushrod at the same time by looking at the exploded drawing (64)
Seal will stay in with cover...you will not have to remove that cover unless you want to make sure it has plenty of grease under it for Ball and ramp assy.

4. Do I need the baker pulley locking kit to remove the pulley nut?
No, use a good air impact to remove it..Remember it's LEFT hand thread, meaning turn clockwise to loosen...to tighten, place belt back onto pulley and hold rear brake with your foot...place RED locktite onto threads (A lot or it) and torque to 80 ft lbs (sometimes you have to go a little beyond that to get your locking bolt holes lined up in correct location)

5. You say to remove the spacer within the seal. Is it pressed in or will it come out easily?
It should pull right off by hand or with large pair of channel locks....inspect this when you remove it for any grooves or wear...if any question, replace it with new...$20 retail.

6. Is the o-ring and quad seal one unit? Do I buy it as one unit? If not, replace both?
Yes you want to replace both...from H-D the Main seal is around $6 and the quad is around $1.00

7. Finally, should I replace the exhaust gaskets?
Yes, replace with the tapered style..$10 for the pair.

 

[Tdubb]

Andrew, you're the best! Your help and others is greatly appreciated!

 

[JeffM]

Andrew, you're the best! Your help and others is greatly appreciated!

X2:2thumbs:

 

[Tdubb]

Step 1 complete. Didn't even finish a beer.

Now I have to pick up a large socket and an electric impact from the rental shop.

Wondering how I'm going to get that tight belt back on.....

 

[JeffM]

Do you think you may have to back off your rear wheel, to get the belt off and back on?

Alignment and tightening procedure are steped out in the manual.

Other than electrical, the Dog's are great to work on......................for me anyway.

 

[john sachs]

Clean everything/area as best you can with brake kleen or solvent. Ride bike slowly so the air doesn't blow oil all over. Check if oil is coming out BEHIND tranny sprocket or in Front of tranny sprocket. Post results and we'll try to give you an answer.
John
I wouldn't put any thread sealant on the drain plug.

 

[bigdogtech01]

Clean everything/area as best you can with brake kleen or solvent. Ride bike slowly so the air doesn't blow oil all over. Check if oil is coming out BEHIND tranny sprocket or in Front of tranny sprocket. Post results and we'll try to give you an answer.
John
I wouldn't put any thread sealant on the drain plug.

No thread sealant = potential oil leak.

General rule of thumb, put liquid type thread sealant on all drain plugs...NPT, crush washer, or O-ring type...they all should have it on threads.

Loctite on bolt threads...usually anything 1/4" or less get's Blue 243
Anything over 1/4" to 1" gets Red 263
Bearing or sleeve retaining can use 603 grade.

 

[Tdubb]

I finished up the seal replacement tonight. Too tired to test drive her. I'll do that tomorrow after work and provide a better update. Andrew was a big help!

 

[Tdubb]

I got her fixed! I put 50 miles on the bike today and no leaks.

About the job... I was able to get the pulley nut off with my breaker bar. No need for an impact. Most difficult part of the job was putting the exhaust back on (as well as getting it off). It's a 2 into 1 big radius. I did have to loosen the rear axle to get the belt back on. I just backed off the adjuster screws on both sides 3 turns and after I slipped the belt on 3 turns back.

Kudos to my certified Big Dog service shop - Short T's Cycle. He provided the parts at a lower price than the Harley dealer. One mistake - he gave me the wrong seal. The ID was too small. I didn't realize it until I put it in and the spacer wouldn't fit. Had to pull it out and run to the Harley shop since it was so late. Had to help the parts guy by taking the book from him and showing him what part I wanted. I stopped by Short T's to say hi and buy a tool bag. I told him after I paid about the seal. He said I should've said something he would of taken it off what I paid tonight. I told him no way it was my fault. I violated the basic tenet OD measure twice and cut once. He was insistent that next time he's going to cut me a deal. I'm also insistent. It was stupid of me not to confirm it was the right seal.

I also fixed another problem I had - decel backfiring and popping. I assumed it was an exhaust leak. It must of been - after putting new exhaust gaskets no backfire or popping at all.

Finally, I just need to adjust my clutch again. I'm getting a little creep when my clutch lever is pulled all the way. What's the quickest way to fix that? I've adjusted twice per the method I've always used - same as service manual. I just seem to struggle fine tuning.

Actually finally - ANDREW WAS A HUGE HELP. I CANNOT THANK HIM ENOUGH!:up: