Clutch Travel Problems

KaptinAmerika · Apr 26, 2013

How many shims did you install when you put the Bandit in?

claw · Apr 26, 2013

I have the same issue. I am at a dead end. I couldn't find a "pre-easy pull". I thought I did, but Baker sent me the exact same ball and ramp that I had in it. I'm considering having a machinist mill the ramps a little deeper, and then using slightly bigger balls. Thats the only solution I can come up with. Maybe someone else will chime in with a better idea.

bruce · Apr 26, 2013

you may no all of this, but here goes, you only need a little distance. when you pull the lever just enough so the pressure off so things release, so first I would take apart the ball and ram assem. and make sure things are OK there - regrease while you are in there ( i had problems there once,things were all there but not in proper places ), then I would start from scratch and adjust rod and then cable - you should have a little play at lever. If this does not work, you will need to look into shimming it properly

woodbutcher · Apr 26, 2013

claw said:
and then using slightly bigger balls. Thats the only solution I can come up with.

just between me, you, and the fence post, guys never admit that their balls ain't big enough. :2thumbs::2thumbs:

bigdogtech01 · Apr 26, 2013

welcome back :cheers:

Yes, your 2008 has the "Easy Pull" ball and ramp. But, it sounds like you need to go back and just do a complete clutch adjustment.....DO NOT DO AS MANUAL TELLS YOU TO...or how you would adjust an H-D....here is how I do it and it works very well.....
>First, loosen pushrod jam nut.
>Then loosen your clutch cable all the way.
>Now go back down to pushrod and turn clockwise till it just bottoms out with light drag.
>Go back up to your clutch cable and tighten the adjuster all the way up till you have 0 (zero) play at lever while holding back on cable near housing.
>Now go back down to the pushrod and turn counterclockwise 1/4 turn and lock jam nut down.
>Go back up to clutch lever and make sure you have 1/16"-1/8" of free play while holding back on the cable near housing.
> If you have close to 1/8", lock the cable down, and you are done with your adjustment.

If this does not work, you might have to check the clutch itself to make sure it's setup the right way.

boomer4444 · Apr 27, 2013

ball n ramp

[/ATTACH]thought maybe this would help you as the bandit recommends not using the easy pull ball n ramp the easy pull is on the left, notice how long the grooves for the "balls" are,,less grooves,= more spread on the ramp= more push on the rod! doubled if you need other ramp let me know as i have a extra as you can see

claw · Apr 27, 2013

PM Sent

boomer4444 said:
[/ATTACH]thought maybe this would help you as the bandit recommends not using the easy pull ball n ramp the easy pull is on the left, notice how long the grooves for the "balls" are,,less grooves,= more spread on the ramp= more push on the rod! doubled if you need other ramp let me know as i have a extra as you can see

jjarkys · Apr 27, 2013

DoubleD said:
With all the slack removed form the clutch cable I can barely get .070 in movement. The bike still lurches when going from neutral to 1st. Also when I say removed all the slack I mean all of it. the clutch lever is snug to its housing and it takes the full range of motion to the grip to get the .070. If I take any more slack out it slips. I'm thinking maybe issues with the ball ratchet mechanism? Oh yeah installed a Barnett clutch cable at the same time as the clutch.

Double D

I have the early ramps and could only get .075 out of it with one shim. I also installed a new cable. John at bandit told me .055 is typical with the later ramps and he explicitly stated you can not use the later easy pull ramps. I believe .070 is min required.

jimizee028 · Apr 27, 2013

I also am installing Bandit at this time and was specifically told to remove my easy pull ball and ramp and put the original back in.I was also told to use 1 shim...

Bowhunter · Apr 27, 2013

DoubleD, after you disassemble the ball and ramp and re-grease it, it is very easy to accidently put it back on incorrectly. While the ball and ramp is apart with the clutch cable given all the slack it has in the adjuster, pull the ramp assembly all the way rearward and make sure that as you reassemble the cover plate and then go to the tranny that you do NOT pull on the cable. If you do pull on the cable it will take all the play out of the ball and ramp assemby and there will be basically NO separation when you pull on the clutch cable. It is essential that the ramp be pulled towards the rear of the bike as much as possible while replacing the cover plate and then going to the transmission. As Andrew said, adjust the pushrod into contact FIRST before touching the cable. Good luck, hopefully this is your problem and it will be an easy fix after adjusting the clutch per Andrew's instructions.

V · Apr 27, 2013

I had the same issue on a 08 Ridgeback. Finally set it where the push rod just made contact with the bearing, then when I locked down the nut it pulled the rod back slightly. Had the cable tight all most zero freeplay and it still was a slam into first gear. Once the bike warmed up it improved quite a bit. Bandit also told me to run only 30 oz of fluid and this may have help some as well. When you drain the primary there is still fluid in the lower part of the front of the primary that doesn't come out. The only way to get it all out is to remove the cover

DD I also had the same situation that you did whit the warped basket/hub assembly. Ended up with a bent shift rod and 2 bent forks. Had 2 baker baskets do this before the switch over to the bandit.

With the 330 tire on hot asphalt, reved up and a good launch something had to give and with mine it was the Baker

bigdogtech01 · Apr 28, 2013

Sounds like this Bandit clutch is more of a headache than it's worth...My question is...Why are people installing this clutch setup? For $50, I can make you a clutch spring to put into your stock BDM/Baker clutch that will give you at least a 20% increase in spring pressure. As long as you have the updated carrier, ($150 I believe) your clutch should be very reliable...and much easier to setup and maintain.
Just my 2 cents.

KaptinAmerika · Apr 28, 2013

ItSounds Allot Like All The Squabble About EHC gremlins To Me
I Have The Bandit System And I Love It
Im running A 124 That's Putting Out 132 Hp And 138Ftlbs Of Torque And I Have Had 0 Issues With it
And That's With Me AT 300 Lbs And About 12000 Miles
And Anyone Can Ask RayWood. I Don't Baby This Thing

bigdogtech01 · Apr 28, 2013

KaptinAmerika said:
ItSounds Allot Like All The Squabble About EHC gremlins To Me
I Have The Bandit System And I Love It
Im running A 124 That's Putting Out 132 Hp And 138Ftlbs Of Torque And I Have Had 0 Issues With it
And That's With Me AT 300 Lbs And About 12000 Miles
And Anyone Can Ask RayWood. I Don't Baby This Thing

So you think it's just the way they are installing it that's giving them such a problem? I have yet to see one on any of my customers bikes. But it sounds like from what these guys are describing, it's a fine tune thing. Seems like they could build it so you just install it like you would with a Baker setup. All the Baker primarys are the same '05 and up...with the exception of the compensator addition on the 2009 models...so, why can't Bandit make a clutch that will bolt right in?

jjarkys · Apr 28, 2013

I don't think there are any issues with the clutch itself. DoubleD just needs to toss the easy pull ramps. Once you get the bandit setup properly, it works great. A lot better than stock ( at least in my situation). IMO

Clutch Travel Problems

Active Member

Guru

Member

Active Member

Mr. Old Fart member #145

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Attachments

Member

Active Member

TRUE COLORS COLLISION

Well-Known Member

Guru

Well-Known Member

Guru

Well-Known Member

Active Member