New Brake Pads Question

[moog5050]

So I have learned to do most of the work on my bike over the last few years. I am not a mechanic, but can handle the basics and to some extent more. All of that said, I have a question about the easiest of tasks. I decided to change the pads on my 2008 ridgeback. Did the front first and even after compressing the pistons to insert the new pads, I had a hard time squeezing them on the disc. I know they are the right pads, as confirmed by Mcgroom, but is it normal to have a very tight fit? I assume they will loosen up when I ride it, but have tried yet.

Regarding the rears, I can't see how to remove the caliper without pulling the rear wheel. There just isn't room. Is this correct?

I couldn't find a how to on this, presumably because it such an abvious process. Any thoughts are much appreciated before I ruin my front rotor by giving it a run.

 

[Sven]

On the fronts. If they hang up at the pin or at the sides, number drill out the pin [hole] to the next size. Take a hand file, file the steel pad housing so it moves easy along it's path as the pucks push the steel pad down that direction. Float is what you want with pads. If say they are knockoffs, then the legal loophole is to add or subtract dimensions and it is no loner a matching copy. So your deal is to shave to fit.

As far as the rear wheel. you now need mechanic's eyes for this. It's all about design and how you can tell by taking off less to do the same job. Study it. If you think it takes the tire to take it off, so be it. If you take the tire off and now you saw you didn't need to = Mechanic's eyes have you.

 

[Raywood]

I have pics of doing the rear in my Advanced Maintenance thread in the how to section.
If your old pads were real thin then what you do is relieve a little pressure on the caliper.
With a brake pad spread (or tire iron) put pressure in the pads and crack the bleeder just a very little bit to open up the pucks. After putting the caliper back on the rotor pump your handle up to build pressure back up.



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[ground pounder]

calipers

:flag:Hi Brian. Did you remove the master cylinder cap when you did the front brakes when you pushed the calipers back? The pads are snug when you first change them. Try pushing your bike a little to conferm the pads will let the wheel rotate freely or jack the front end up and see if it will rotate by hand. You can change the back brakes the same way you did the front ones except you don't have to remove the caliper just pry the pads back. You don't have to remove the wheel. I just did mine the other day. Pry the pads back remove the cotter key and slide the pin out. the pads will slide out the bottom side of the caliper. Make sure that you catch any brake fluid so it doesn't get on your paint! Hope this helps.If you need help I can tell you how to do it over the phone. Just drop me an e-mail and I will send you my phone number or shoot me your number and I will call you.:up:

 

[moog5050]

Thank guys, I just pressed the calipers without opening the bleeder or master cylinder, like I would on a car with clamps. Maybe I need to remove the front and try compressing the pistons again with the bleeder open. I hope I don't have to shave the pads.

Tom, I will try the rear like you suggested. IF I run into problems, I will PM you. Raywood, I saw your thread, but hoping I don't have to pull the rear wheel.

Thanks for the advice to all.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Thank guys, I just pressed the calipers without opening the bleeder or master cylinder, like I would on a car with clamps. Maybe I need to remove the front and try compressing the pistons again with the bleeder open. I hope I don't have to shave the pads.

Tom, I will try the rear like you suggested. IF I run into problems, I will PM you. Raywood, I saw your thread, but hoping I don't have to pull the rear wheel.

Thanks for the advice to all.

When you do a car its a hell of a lot easier if you unscrew the cap to the MC :up:

Gotta remember that generates pressure in the line when you squeeze the pucks.

 

[moog5050]

When you do a car its a hell of a lot easier if you unscrew the cap to the MC :up:

Gotta remember that generates pressure in the line when you squeeze the pucks.

you know, i think i typically do, but forgot. who knows but it sure makes sense. lol

btw - magically the front pistons seemed to have relaxed a bit since last night. now to tackle the rear

 

[bearman]

Just as with a car, when you spread apart the pads (compress the caliper pistons) you force the brake fluid back into the master cylinder.
As the brake pads get thinner, the pistons don't go back into the calipers as far and the fluid level in the master cylinder gets lower. So when you force the pads back fully apart the fluid goes back into the master cylinder, if there has ever been any fluid added, then it will probably leak out, so you might want to vent the air out of the master cylinder but be careful to catch any fluid and not to get any on the paint.
Jack it up and spin the wheels after you are done to check the new brakes, the pads should touch the rotors, but not drag.