Clutch help!!!

[Greyhairracer]

Help!!!! Was getting ready to install new clutch in doggie and discovered the basket is very loose; how it cam to be this way has yet to be determined.
Regardless, I was going to pull the center hub out to get to the root cause and can't get the damn bolt of the hub. Tried using impact gun going both ways - won't budge. Don't see a washer behind that's bent down to keep it from moving, so I'm at a loss as to why it won't come loose.
Looks like there's holes on the parameter of the basket for what I assume is a clutch tool? What do I need to do here....get a tool then put a breaker bar on it to get the nut loose??
I'm beating my head into the wall trying to get this damn nut off....can't run it with a loose basket, so I'm at a loss.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! Also, if anyone might have a '05 Bulldog service manual in pdf I can download that would be most helpful as well.
Trying to get back on the road.....help please!!!!!!

Gracias!!!!

 

[woodbutcher]

reverse thread and should have red loctite on it so you will have to heat the shaft and put monster torque on it to break it loose. at least 150/180 lb torque.

if the basket is loose, there is a probability the basket is broke, '05 was known for that.

 

[KaptinAmerika]

If you have a wratchet extension that is the right length you can use it like a primary bar and put it between the teeth of the rear gear and the front gear at an angle.
That nut is put on at 150ftlbs with high strength Red loc tite, if its done right, so it is not going to pop right off.
Sounds like the basket mounting bolts came loose.
If your lucky all you will have to do is remove them, clean the threads on both surfaces with a good cleaner, spray with Klean n' Prime, a little red loc tite and assemble.
If not then the basket is broken as Wood stated.
I have a used Bruiser clutch system for 285 if you need.
Carrier and all.
Also do you have a service manual?

 

[jjarkys]

I had to let the impact beat on mine before it broke loose.

 

[Greyhairracer]

If you have a wratchet extension that is the right length you can use it like a primary bar and put it between the teeth of the rear gear and the front gear at an angle.
That nut is put on at 150ftlbs with high strength Red loc tite, if its done right, so it is not going to pop right off.
Sounds like the basket mounting bolts came loose.
If your lucky all you will have to do is remove them, clean the threads on both surfaces with a good cleaner, spray with Klean n' Prime, a little red loc tite and assemble.
If not then the basket is broken as Wood stated.
I have a used Bruiser clutch system for 285 if you need.
Carrier and all.
Also do you have a service manual?

Yeah - it's on there all right!!! As for using an extension, I was brought up to not do that, as you run the risk of breaking either the basket or center hub....however, in an emergency I guess you have to compromise!!! Looks like the clutch tool will have long prongs to grab the hub, and probably a special tool only used by Big Dog!!!
Don't think the basket is broke, just loose. Although, I'm surprised it didn't let go altogether - hopefully I got to it just in time.
As for a manual - no. Asked in previous post if someone may have one in pdf I could possibly download. BDM wants $130 for one.......

I'll try the heat routine and see what happens.

Thanks for the feedback!!!

 

[Bowhunter]

I stuffed rags into the chain to keep it from rotating, heated the nut up with a heat gun, and hit it with a impact wrench. This is left hand thread, so righty-loosey.
Good luck, it came right off for me on my bike and Postman's bike.

 

[Sven]

I'm beating my head into the wall trying to get this damn nut off....can't run it with a loose basket, so I'm at a loss.

1. Rivet two steel clutch plates together so they slide in the clutch center.
2. Weld or braze a Y kind of handle onto the steel clutch plates.
3. Hold the homemade clutch tool holder with one hand and wait for the air to stop in the tank and has to be at least 100lbs. of pressure or more.
4. Make sure the gun is reverse of rightightea to loosen this left hand threaded nut.
5. Home he does not warm up the lock-tite if there is a rubber seal in that special left hand nut housing... Unless you are going to change it out.
6. The trick is to: burst gun shots at it. Rat-tat-tat and stop. Trigger the tank to come on and wait for the air to reach peak again.
7. Get it? Bursts at peak psi? Not keep going with diminishing returns.

Optional:

A. Forgo making the tool.
B. Let the clutch center spin.
C. Back again to burst shots at it @ peak psi.

 

[bigdogtech01]

Like Steve said, use a heat gun rather than an open flame from a torch. Along with a good air impact ( 650ft lbs or more ) and it should come right off.
Did you remove the 4 bolts holding the clutch spring and pressure plate on?
If So... put them back in and just remove the snap ring that holds the throwout bearing in place. That way the center hub of the clutch will not try to turn on you while trying to get nut loose. No special tools needed other than 30mm socket, possibly heat gun and an air impact.
Good luck

 

[Greyhairracer]

Ok....found the problem. BTW, thanks for the advise using a heat gun; worked like a champ!!!

Unfortunately for me I discovered that the carrier had cracked all the way around; there's holes on the inside, and it appears they are stress cracks.

Going to call Baker tomorrow morning and see what they can do; just need the carrier, not the whole damn thing with hub for $400.00. Bike has just over 5k miles on it, and from what I've read on this forum that appeared to have been a weak link with the clutch assembly. I'm also suspecting that was where the squealing noise may have been coming from when accelerating under heavy load.

BTW - was going to replace the stock clutch in this thing since it sucks anyway and put an Energy One package in; from what I've seen, EO sells a 9 disk package as a OEM replacement, yet the stock pack was 13 disks. Does anyone have a part number recommendation or should I just call EO?

Thanks again for all the help.....hopefully we'll be back running soon!!!:2thumbs:

 

[boomer4444]

greyhairracer,, i also thought i would do the cost effective way of maintaining my clutch, replaced clutch pack with energy one $125,,replaced clutch pack and pressure plate again on way to sturgis at shop$485,, than shattered bearing carrier, all within 3 months, i dont beat on my bike at all,, save yourself the aggravation i went through and buy the Bandit

 

[Greyhairracer]

greyhairracer,, i also thought i would do the cost effective way of maintaining my clutch, replaced clutch pack with energy one $125,,replaced clutch pack and pressure plate again on way to sturgis at shop$485,, than shattered bearing carrier, all within 3 months, i dont beat on my bike at all,, save yourself the aggravation i went through and buy the Bandit

Boomer,
Were you running the updated carrier from Baker, or the original?? Not that I'm penny pinching, but it would seem to me that if Baker has an updated carrier that fixed the issue you could install whatever clutch setup you want, or that would fit in the basket. I do like the idea of Bandit's carrier assembly being all billet though......definitely more solid looking.

I just want something I don't have to worry about handling the higher torque loads w/o risk of breaking during hard launches.

 

[soonertodd]

Do yourself a favor and put a Bandit clutch setup in it. reduced lever pull and holds better

 

[boomer4444]

i was running the old flawed 3053 part number carrier, yes i knew there was a problem with them but thought, hey not broke yet why replace,, in my case i kept throwing money at a bad design, spring pressure plate set up is not holding these high horse motors with big rubber out back, throw in 2 up riding and somethings gotta give,,clutch,mainshaft, or tranny bearings, clutch is the weakest link and usually the first to go, post after post is stating this fact for years, if i am not mistaken energy one makes the clutch plates for baker and bandit(added 2 plates) so the carrier and the pressure plate is the critical point to transfer the hp,, dont get me wrong, baker is a very fine company but i think the design of this clutch system is truly lacking in design and in real world performance, updating the carrier is a good start to fix the breaking but slip and finding nuetral issues still exist with the baker set up:up: