NEG post melt down

[ourode12]

You have to pull the starter and break it down to find internal issues.
The RSD starters are renowned for letting oil in to them, at least until Wild Steed Worx rebuilds it, and oil causes havoc with a starter. Could be a semi grounded field coil I could go on and on.
If you need a good starter rebuild

Starter Rebuild

I have no signs of oil leaking externally, if there is oil in the starter would it cause the starter to draw so much power that it would melt the POS terminal? If I need to rebuild it or get a new one I will, just want to check everything possible beforehand.

 

[RRRUFF]

If everything is tight, sounds like a starter issue. You might want to check the voltage at the battery just to rule that out for sure. Should be getting arount 13-14 volts with engine running. But since you said the cable is cooling off once you release the starter button put you money on the starter.

 

[ourode12]

If everything is tight, sounds like a starter issue. You might want to check the voltage at the battery just to rule that out for sure. Should be getting arount 13-14 volts with engine running. But since you said the cable is cooling off once you release the starter button put you money on the starter.

DAMN IT!!! ya, thats what I was afraid of. Might do the rebuild from a previous post.

 

[ourode12]

DAMN IT!!! ya, thats what I was afraid of. Might do the rebuild from a previous post.

Talked with Curtis from the previous post "starter rebuild" he gave me some other trouble shooting or isolation ideas.

Took the solenoid cover off
Reconnected the battery
With the key switch OFF, I pushed the plunger in on the solenoid:loony:
(rubber coated everything is highly recommended for that step)
thus eliminating all electronics and switches
The motor rolled over a couple times, and the POS terminal on the battery arched like a old stick welder and started to liquify what was left of the POS post.

Do you think its time for a new starter.........:2thumbs:
me too

 

[Sven]

The motor rolled over a couple times, and the POS terminal on the battery arched like a old stick welder and started to liquify what was left of the POS post.

Do you think its time for a new starter...

I would think if it was a bad starter, you touch the button, it goes to ground. But in this case, the starter turns the engine over. Do I think it needs a starter? Did it melt the starter button also? Electricity is going to take the shortest path, right?

All you are pushing thru a wire is heat more or less. So if the heat source is concentrated into the cable being loose, or arching trying to make a better ground, I would for the final, 'do I need a new starter is' take jumper cables and make a brand new ground, a brand new posi side for that matter.

Posi from (+) battery to starter lug. Ground the starter motor to the engine or frame. Do the wires go hot, and the starter lugs? Then, starter. If it spins like a bandit, then poor cable connections.

Signed,
NOLTT

 

[BigDogBro1]

For that much battery current to melt the battery post seems it would be a starter solenoid sticking or internally shorting the battery lead to the solenoid case (ground).

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Starter needs a full and thorough rebuild.
Rebuild

You might want to consider installing one of these also
Heads Up
This way you know in advance of charging and battery issues.

 

[bigdogtech01]

Have you tested for starter voltage drop?

If not, take your voltage meter, check to make sure you have at least 12.8 volts at battery.
Then, with one lead on Neg post of battery and the other lead on positive post down on starter motor, hit starter button...
If voltage drops bellow 10 VDC, most likely your starter is bad, just as others have already said.
The other question is...Have you been inside the primary for any reason? Do you know for sure if the starter jack shaft is not too tight? If someone tightened the starter jackshaft bolt up too much, it can cause the jackshaft gear to hang up on the ring gear of the clutch. Just a thought....But I would start with the voltage drop and go from there.

 

[bigdogtech01]

To add to this, keep in mind, the voltage drop test is only accurate when using a known good battery...make sure the battery is for sure testing good.

 

[Sven]

Got to be either a major draw or a major resistance somewhere.

<<< We have winner!

Major resistance = If you power direct to the starter motor with the motor still hooked up to the primary chain, the resistance is the engine resistance and cause a power drop this way... WATT are the odds?

Major draw = If we had the motor on the bench, took a current drop to the starter motor only, no resistance but the gear spinning in the air, watching the current draw down and then see if the motor by itself can begin to cook the starter.

Major ground = Where is the completed integrity of the ground from battery to ground? Engine to ground? Transmission to ground? NOLTT with a simple set of jumper cables to complete the ground. No engine pulled, no transmission pulled, no motor removed. Too simple is eliminate the ground first. No tools but cables needed.

Time is money = Which is faster? Ground the motor to the engine or bench the motor, find out NPF (no problem found). Replace motor back into bike. Reinstall primary cover/oil/gaskets. Does the customer eat the parts and labor now?

This is one variable is ground integrity vs. motor integrity. Just watching how the diagnostics moves: off of different approaches mentioned. Could be the motor, you never know? Could be a learning curve too... Out of who's pocket?

 

[KaptinAmerika]

As far as Big Dogs go and the nature of their low voltage system the only thing in the starting system that can melt down a battery post is an over amperage draw within the starter or a bad cell/s in the battery.
Barring any grounding issue between the starter and the battery which the owner has already confirmed does not exist.
So no matter what the owner does the starter will have to come out.

 

[ourode12]

Thanks Curtis, starter has been removed and shipped to you. Also, thanks for the one-on-one time over the phone in order to complete some other trouble-shooting before I had to remove the starter. Thats what this forum is all about!!!!

 

[Five Five]

Thanks Curtis, starter has been removed and shipped to you. Also, thanks for the one-on-one time over the phone in order to complete some other trouble-shooting before I had to remove the starter. Thats what this forum is all about!!!!

Great forum :up:

 

[Jramion]

No liquefied battery post but I do have a melted ground wire. I cleaned up the ring terminals and replaced the original wire and it still melted. My starter wire comes from the neg battery terminal. It is crimped to the same connector as the ground wire. The ground wire connects to the bike frame. Could the starter cause the ground wire to overheat and melt the insulation? The wire to the starter seems fine. Or might I have another issue.
I already have the battery unhooked and will put it on a tender and will replace the wire when I can get a replacement.

 

[ksmike]

I believe your large black negative battery cable is not attached to the frame, forcing the small green cable to try to carry the load of the starter. Check the bolts and the crimp connections on the end of the large cable.

 

[Jramion]

The large black cable is not bolted to the frame...it goes straight to the starter. The green wire (which is slightly smaller than the original it replaced) is the only ground tied to the frame.

 

[Jramion]

btw...it's a 2004 Big Dog Chopper.

 

[Coolbreezin]

My negative cable is attached to the back of the primary. The starter bolt holds it on. It has been like that since day one. I havent had any hot terminal issues until today. I found my POS bolt backed out a couple threads. Tightened it up and she fired right up.