KaptinAmerika
Guru
Don't see a video
Okay, I give... PLEASE HELP!!!
- Thread starter PitbullKC
- Start date
bigdogtech01
Well-Known Member
The accelerator pump nozzle is clogged for sure, but like you said, not the cause of it stalling out. Sounds more like something going on with the EHC. You had said before in one of your first posts that the head light will go out if you wiggle the wires to the EHC...correct? Can you wiggle the wires and get it to stall while running?
To clean your Nozzle, take float bowl off carb, remove accelerator pump from bottom of bowl with 2 flat head screws. Take note of 2 small steel balls, 1 small spring, and 2 small blue O-rings (make sure they are placed in same location when assembling it) Now, take a .005" feeler gauge and run it carefully threw the pump nozzle. Once you have done this, take some parts cleaner/brake cleaner or carb cleaner and spray from bottom hole up threw nozzle. Then take shop air with an air nozzle and blow air threw the nozzle from both ends. Keep doing this with cleaner and air until you get a nice fan of spray out the nozzle. Once you know it's clean, put carb back together, turn fuel on and make sure your getting a nice fan of spray out nozzle.
To clean your Nozzle, take float bowl off carb, remove accelerator pump from bottom of bowl with 2 flat head screws. Take note of 2 small steel balls, 1 small spring, and 2 small blue O-rings (make sure they are placed in same location when assembling it) Now, take a .005" feeler gauge and run it carefully threw the pump nozzle. Once you have done this, take some parts cleaner/brake cleaner or carb cleaner and spray from bottom hole up threw nozzle. Then take shop air with an air nozzle and blow air threw the nozzle from both ends. Keep doing this with cleaner and air until you get a nice fan of spray out the nozzle. Once you know it's clean, put carb back together, turn fuel on and make sure your getting a nice fan of spray out nozzle.
PitbullKC
Active Member
@Raywood: I did replace the cam sensor, and have had the nose cone cover off since then just in case that was the problem.
Also, while I was about to start testing the module wires and coil wires...
I noticed the "yellow" light was lit up on my "ignition starter relay" switch.
(See picture)
According to the manual: ELECTRONIC START RELAY- "An amber LED indicates an overload or shorted circuit within the ignition system".
As I wiggled the 2nd harness on the EHC, the headlight flickered.
The amber LED would go away if I put pressure on on certain parts of the 2nd EHC wire-harness. The headlight would come back strong too.
I tried wiggling each wire seperatly on the harness in order to narrow it down. But three wires affected it.
Once I got the headlight to work properly & the amber LED to go off, by wiggling the harness... I tried starting it. But it still wouldn't start, and while pressing the "start" button the amber light would come back on.
I hope this makes sense to you all. Trying to type on here what i'm experiencing is kinda hard.
Also, while I was about to start testing the module wires and coil wires...
I noticed the "yellow" light was lit up on my "ignition starter relay" switch.
(See picture)
According to the manual: ELECTRONIC START RELAY- "An amber LED indicates an overload or shorted circuit within the ignition system".
As I wiggled the 2nd harness on the EHC, the headlight flickered.
The amber LED would go away if I put pressure on on certain parts of the 2nd EHC wire-harness. The headlight would come back strong too.
I tried wiggling each wire seperatly on the harness in order to narrow it down. But three wires affected it.
Once I got the headlight to work properly & the amber LED to go off, by wiggling the harness... I tried starting it. But it still wouldn't start, and while pressing the "start" button the amber light would come back on.
I hope this makes sense to you all. Trying to type on here what i'm experiencing is kinda hard.
Attachments
bigdogtech01
Well-Known Member
Looking at your picture, it looks like headlight relay is damaged. That also controls the compression releases (if your bike has them)
KaptinAmerika
Guru
According to the manual: ELECTRONIC START RELAY- "An amber LED indicates an overload or shorted circuit within the ignition system".
If the bike will start with the amber light on then it could be another issue.
If the bike won't start with the amber light on then try running the bike until it dies a couple of times.
If you keep getting the amber light then you have narrowed it down dramatically.
If the bike will start with the amber light on then it could be another issue.
If the bike won't start with the amber light on then try running the bike until it dies a couple of times.
If you keep getting the amber light then you have narrowed it down dramatically.
KaptinAmerika
Guru
Good eyes BDtech. Had to blow it up in photoshop to really see it.
KaptinAmerika
Guru
BDtech could that amber light, overload, be tripped by an overheated Ignition Sensor Plate? I know he said he put a new one in but that doesn't guarantee it was good. I have seen "New Good" sensors that were bad? Just a thought.
You might give this a try
Ignition sensor plate
• Prone to thermal failure-engine will run fine until bike comes up to temperature then
may run erratic or die. Will not re-start until bike sits for a period of time then will
start fine.
• To diagnose, check for LED flashing on ignition module when engine is cranked
over. If no flash, confirm power and connection, if connection and power good,
replace sensor plate with known good unit. If LED is flashing on module at all times,
problem is not sensor plate.
• A thermal issue can be isolated by using a heat gun to heat up sensor plate while
monitoring module, or if the bike is hot and will not start and LED is not flashing, use
freeze mist (available at Radio Shack) to cool down sensor plate. If engine then starts,
you need to replace sensor plate.
You might give this a try
Ignition sensor plate
• Prone to thermal failure-engine will run fine until bike comes up to temperature then
may run erratic or die. Will not re-start until bike sits for a period of time then will
start fine.
• To diagnose, check for LED flashing on ignition module when engine is cranked
over. If no flash, confirm power and connection, if connection and power good,
replace sensor plate with known good unit. If LED is flashing on module at all times,
problem is not sensor plate.
• A thermal issue can be isolated by using a heat gun to heat up sensor plate while
monitoring module, or if the bike is hot and will not start and LED is not flashing, use
freeze mist (available at Radio Shack) to cool down sensor plate. If engine then starts,
you need to replace sensor plate.
PitbullKC
Active Member
Kaptain, I've wondered myself if this is an over-heat issue with a component (like the cam sensor).
Especially since it will start & run for 5mins or so, but after it dies it never starts back up.
As recommended by the book, I did "check the LED flashing on the ignition module when its cranking over."
It "shows" its working properly by flashing while cranking.
I got to put the kiddos down for bed, so no more working on it tonight.
Especially since it will start & run for 5mins or so, but after it dies it never starts back up.
As recommended by the book, I did "check the LED flashing on the ignition module when its cranking over."
It "shows" its working properly by flashing while cranking.
I got to put the kiddos down for bed, so no more working on it tonight.
KaptinAmerika
Guru
As long as your asking we will all be here to help.
As far as the testing I would still try starting the bike and using a heat gun just to completely rule it out as well as hitting with coolant when the bike dies.
Good night bro
As far as the testing I would still try starting the bike and using a heat gun just to completely rule it out as well as hitting with coolant when the bike dies.
Good night bro
bigdogtech01
Well-Known Member
I agree, no harm in trying it. Just make sure your not putting too much heat on it. Them heat guns can and will burn the sensor up. Most of them get to 1200 degrees F.
Diesel Dan
Well-Known Member
I have a question..Why cant you hook a laptop up to your bike,go into your subscreen of EMS Engine management systems,then go to Engine values, go to your Input/output Display and watch your Cam & Crank Sync paramaters......If your cam sensor is going away you should be able to watch it cut out and lose (Sync) with crank sensor... and it will say ( Out of Sync) when it miss's...and at the same time set a snapshot screen for cylinder missfire,if your cam sensor acts funny you should be able to nail it that way?? IDK just a suggestion... I have been reading this thread from the begining, very frustrating....good luck am sure u will figure it out,lots of smart people on here.
Last edited:
DRBarnhart
Insert title here...
DRBarnhart
Insert title here...
Got a little question...
Is there something going on with this pin since it looks different from the rest?:
And if so, is this the pin that goes to P3/J3 #4? Because if it is, this pin supplies the ground to lots of stuff including the ignition module.
Just wondering...
Dennis
Is there something going on with this pin since it looks different from the rest?:
And if so, is this the pin that goes to P3/J3 #4? Because if it is, this pin supplies the ground to lots of stuff including the ignition module.
Just wondering...
Dennis
PitbullKC
Active Member
I took that pin out and inspected, along with inspecting every other one in all four harnesses. Everything looks fine.
When I went out this morning to try and fire it up, I couldn't even get it to start at all.
Makes me think it may not be an overheating cam sensor since it wouldn't start cold.
The amber LED on the starter relay wasn't lit this time either. But both rear blinkers were flashing in a 1,2,3 pause 1,2,3 pause progression...& wouldn't stop.
I'm about to pull what little hair I have left out!!
:bang::angry::bang::angry::bang:
When I went out this morning to try and fire it up, I couldn't even get it to start at all.
Makes me think it may not be an overheating cam sensor since it wouldn't start cold.
The amber LED on the starter relay wasn't lit this time either. But both rear blinkers were flashing in a 1,2,3 pause 1,2,3 pause progression...& wouldn't stop.
I'm about to pull what little hair I have left out!!
:bang::angry::bang::angry::bang:
KaptinAmerika
Guru
When it wouldnt fire did you pull a plug and check for spark?
DRBarnhart
Insert title here...
I didn't want to sidetrack your troubleshooting but when I saw that pin looked a little different and knowing what it could affect... Anyway, it was worth the couple minutes it took to check it out.
I agree with you there Jeremy...
How's the battery holding up?
Dennis
Diesel Dan
Well-Known Member
Do what curtis said.....Pull spark plug, and put a spark checker tool there and see what ya got....then go from there...