Unbelievable! Only replaced the clutch cable and now this!!

[Black Rider]

Replaced the clutch cable. Greased the ball and ramp. Made sure the cable was inside the actuator completely. Balls were locked in place. Put the clutch rod back in and turned until it just met resistance. tightened the hub nut. adjusted the cable to tighten the lever.
when I press the clutch with the bike in first gear the wheel will not roll. Start the bike on the lift in first gear with the clutch pulled in and the wheel rolls. I have taken this things of like ten time and done it over and over. Anyone please help!!!!:flag:

 

[dingo]

Couple of thoughts:

Usually i back off the clutch rod about 1/4 turn after reaching the throwout bearing (resistance).

Make sure the ball / ramp assembly is fully collapsed or closed on itself when installed so that your cable adjustment is correct. Some have had the assembly rotate to the open position prior to adjusting the cable which results in problems.

Hope this helps.

 

[kmalysa]

Couple of thoughts:

Usually i back off the clutch rod about 1/4 turn after reaching the throwout bearing (resistance).

Make sure the ball / ramp assembly is fully collapsed or closed on itself when installed so that your cable adjustment is correct. Some have had the assembly rotate to the open position prior to adjusting the cable which results in problems.

Hope this helps.

Yup That happened to me, the ramp assy if moved from closed will throw everything off and stretch the cable, also agree to back of rod 1/4 turn, and make sure it doesn't turn when tightening the nut.

 

[Black Rider]

Yes I verified all of that. I think it must be something else because I can't even get into neutral while it up on the lift by shifting the shifter with my hand. Also I have the hub cover off and I can see the rod going in and out. It's doesn't go in much but to my calculations it's going in the right amout in comparison to the balls. I starting to think its something in the clutch.

 

[kmalysa]

Did you do any work on the clutch? Why did you replace the cable, did it break? If so what caused the cable to break? Does the clutch lever feel smooth without any binding or hard resistance?

 

[Black Rider]

No work on the clutch. I was in Rome for vets day cemetery ride and in traffic I got cramps because it was so stiff. I changed the primary fluid that's it. The cable just broke one night I was out riding after changing the fluid. No resistance on the lever. I can't even get into neutral with my hand.

 

[kmalysa]

I can tell you that the cable position , as it runs along the down tube is important. When I was wrenching on mine this winter, the cable slipped down about an inch. When I tried adjusting the Clutch rod, I could not get it correct, The cause was the cable was not allowing the Ball ramp to do it's full travel. I know you said you checked it. But once it's mounted in place, could the ball ramp have moved a little?

Just seems odd that your clutch suddenly is acting up, unless it caused the cable to break in the first place. Also, when you changed Primary fluid, non synthetic right?

Your symtom before breaking the cable (very hard to pull) would suggest that at that point the cable was binding and stretching until it broke. This also most likely would be caused in the wrong position of the Ramp assy, or not having any freeplay at the lever adjustment?

 

[Black Rider]

I can tell you that the cable position , as it runs along the down tube is important. When I was wrenching on mine this winter, the cable slipped down about an inch. When I tried adjusting the Clutch rod, I could not get it correct, The cause was the cable was not allowing the Ball ramp to do it's full travel. I know you said you checked it. But once it's mounted in place, could the ball ramp have moved a little?

Just seems odd that your clutch suddenly is acting up, unless it caused the cable to break in the first place. Also, when you changed Primary fluid, non synthetic right?

Your symtom before breaking the cable (very hard to pull) would suggest that at that point the cable was binding and stretching until it broke. This also most likely would be caused in the wrong position of the Ramp assy, or not having any freeplay at the lever adjustment?

I went with a synthetic but after one ride I switched back because I had problems finding neutral.
The cable position on the downtube I can check but I put it in the same place it was. I can see the rod going in and out.
Before the break I never touched the ball ramp.

 

[kmalysa]

I went with a synthetic but after one ride I switched back because I had problems finding neutral.
The cable position on the downtube I can check but I put it in the same place it was. I can see the rod going in and out.
Before the break I never touched the ball ramp.
I understand that you did not touch the Ball Ramp before the cable break. I was suggesting that the cable may have slipped along the down tube un-noticed and caused binding before the break. But if now the cable and lever feel right and you see the rod going in and out, perhaps the problem is with the clutch.
Or the rod needs to be moved a little inward or out ward. I know it took me several attempts until I had mine just right.

 

[Black Rider]

Yes I'm starting to think its something in the clutch because I should be able to put it in neutral with my hand while it's on the lift.

 

[kmalysa]

Hmmm... If it were me, the next thing I would check is the Clutch Hub Nut inside the Primary...

They have been known to work loose. It is a left hand thread and should be torqued to 80 ft/lbs

 

[Black Rider]

Hmmm... If it were me, the next thing I would check is the Clutch Hub Nut inside the Primary...

They have been known to work loose. It is a left hand thread and should be torqued to 80 ft/lbs

Hmmm.
Any how too on this?

 

[kmalysa]

You have to:

• Drain Primary Fliud
• Remove the entire Primay cover
• you need a drip pan as you remove cover as there is still a lot of primary fliud that won't drain from the plug
  • Back off the clutch cable and Clutch rod
  • Use snap ring pliers to remove throw out bearing, the clutch hub nut is behind it
• to check the Nut Torque, you need to place somthing (like a breaker bar or wedge) to keep the chain sprocket from spinning as you use a socket to tighten the nut.

From those who have had this nut come loose it would be so loose that, you can turn it by hand or with socket without much force.

Of course re-assembly would require a good inspection of the primary long o-ring, may need replaced if any cuts or flattening is noticed, use a little RTV or Hylomar to help seal the o-ring.
there is a sequence for re tightening the Bolts to the cover to 8 ft/lbs. Maybe somebody can post a diagram from the manual as far as the sequence?
PS I just edited this because a couple steps were missing, okay now

 

[Black Rider]

Hmm. If I open that primary again I'm going to order the easy shift clutch. Wow. Guess I will learn all about being a mechanic now!!!

 

[kmalysa]

Hmm. If I open that primary again I'm going to order the easy shift clutch. Wow. Guess I will learn all about being a mechanic now!!!

LOL! Yup you get to learn alot about these bikes once you own one! BTW I edited the how to, because I forget a couple steps.

 

[kmalysa]

BTW... After draing fluid and removing the outer primary cover and Before backing off the clutch cable and adjustment and rod and before removing the Throw out bearing, you can inspect the movement by pulling the clutch lever and seeing how the clutch is moving. If I am not mistaken it should move about 1/8"???
I would like to see others chime in also!

 

[Black Rider]

Thank u all so much. I hope to get this thing up soon or hurt on the highly modified 230 hp zx12. Too old.

 

[Black Rider]

I actually tried screwing the rod further in which should have disengaged the clutch. Didn't happen. There has to be something else wrong.

 

[lee]

not much to add but the rear wheel will roll when off the ground. That's perfectly normal. Also having difficulty finding neutral is fairly normal. Most flick it into neutral when the bike is still on the move or use a quick zip on the gas. You should back off the pushrod a 1/4 or 1/2 turn though before locking it all down.

 

[Black Rider]

WOOOO HOOOO!!
Dumb me!!
Looks like the cable was installed right the first time. I made the mistake of trying to turn the wheel while the dog was on the lift. I did not realize that when I pull the clutch in the tire would not roll as free as it does in neutral. So I ended up taking the primary off and saw that the clutch was indeed working fine. I put everything back together took it for a ride... finally got the adjustment right I think. Thank you everyone for all the help. Without this forum I do not know what I would do.