Wire-Plus Kit Trouble

[Scooter28]

I installed the WP kit in Jun/Jul time frame. I have only rode my bike about 50 miles since. To the Point: The bike shut off (completely died) 3 times the other day. The 4th time the horn went to blowing , tach went out, bike died, then smoke went to rolling out from under the seat. Sent the modules back to Don at Wire-Plus, not much of a response as to what fixed the problem.

Put the new modules in today, bike cranked up perfect. Wanted to go on a 50-100 mile test ride, made it 3 miles before the bike cut off again. Bike didn't do it until i went over about 4000 rpm's.

I am wondering if the Voltage regulator is spiking making the bike shut off. The bike cranked back up, and i came back to the house before i was stranded again. Before i push this bike off a cliff because i have absolutely 0 confidence that whenever i go somewhere it will make it back home, i am looking for any suggestions.

Thanks,
Kevin Jones
Utah
2005 Ridgeback

 

[Thors]

My VR recently went south and my Wireplus suffered a bit. No more kill or hi/lo relay. Ignition power circuits as well (part of the kill issue). If you are handy with a multimeter, you should be able to track it down. I'd start with voltage @ off/idle/rev. Check your ignition module power connections while you're in there.

 

[Moespeeds]

Had this same issue with 2 other WP units. WP replaced both units under warranty. One of the guys needed another replacement because he had the same issue again a week later. Send the unit back again. Check your VR and battery connections. WP blamed both incidents on loose battery wires.

 

[bdmridgeback]

I have had 3 or 4 customers that for sure had battery connections come loose and melted battery terminals and took out one, the other, or both modules.

Loc-tite battery terminals!

I emailed you all my thoughts of what to test for. Pretty sure your bike has not had VR recall done on it. That is probably what took out the EHC to begin with.

 

[DRBarnhart]

Loc-tite battery terminals!

I repectfully disagree with that statement!

Locktite on the battery terminals could add resistance to the connection which would not be a good thing. A locking washer such as a star washer would be a better alternative to get the best connection possible...

Dennis

 

[JimNubs]

I repectfully disagree with that statement!

Locktite on the battery terminals could add resistance to the connection which would not be a good thing. A locking washer such as a star washer would be a better alternative to get the best connection possible...

Dennis

Locktite would be on the threads of the bolt not on the face of the battery terminal that would be in contact with the ring crimp of the wire.

 

[Moespeeds]

I put a tiny little dab of red loctite on battery terminal bolts, though I've been told not to. Never had a problem though.

 

[DRBarnhart]

Locktite would be on the threads of the bolt not on the face of the battery terminal that would be in contact with the ring crimp of the wire.

The bolt head also makes contact with the wire connectors so that makes the threads of the bolt part of the electrical connection.

Dennis

 

[jimizee028]

I am with Dennis on this one....locking star washer a better option in my opinion...

 

[Mickeetwo]

I tried blue loctite on one of my battries and they would still get loose. When I get home from a ride I just remove the seat and check the oil, battery cables and put on the tender. Its just routine now.

 

[HMAN]

I repectfully disagree with that statement!

Locktite on the battery terminals could add resistance to the connection which would not be a good thing. A locking washer such as a star washer would be a better alternative to get the best connection possible...

Dennis

To avoid ANY loctite isssue just use a nylon locking nut...... shouldn't come loose until you want it to. You can find them at most hardware stores.:zz2cents:

 

[firedog19]

I drilled and tapped the spacer block for a set screw. I tighten the terminal bolts and lock them down with the set screw

 

[bdmridgeback]

I repectfully disagree with that statement!

Locktite on the battery terminals could add resistance to the connection which would not be a good thing. A locking washer such as a star washer would be a better alternative to get the best connection possible...

Dennis

The battery bolt goes completely through the battery terminal and into the nut. All the resistance is relying on the contact point between the bolt head, the terminals attached, and between the terminals and the battery terminal itself, almost none of it is relying on the threads of the bolt.

As long as you only put a slight amount on the threads only, and not a half a bottle coating the entire battery terminal, it does not make a difference, trust me, I have done it on every bike that I have EVER had a battery disconnected from and never had one come loose, nor a problem with connection. I also use a star washer, but use loc tite as well.

Try it with a multi meter, you will see it makes no difference at all.

 

[DRBarnhart]

The battery bolt goes completely through the battery terminal and into the nut. All the resistance is relying on the contact point between the bolt head, the terminals attached, and between the terminals and the battery terminal itself,...

The battery bolts in both the Big Dog battery that was in my bike and the HD AGM I replaced it with screw in to the terminal, no nut on the other side.

...almost none of it is relying on the threads of the bolt.

But some does so why not go for the best connection possible? That's all I'm saying... :up:

As long as you only put a slight amount on the threads only, and not a half a bottle coating the entire battery terminal, it does not make a difference, trust me, I have done it on every bike that I have EVER had a battery disconnected from and never had one come loose, nor a problem with connection.

Your choice my friend! :2thumbs:

I also use a star washer, but use loc tite as well.

I don't see the need for both... but that's just me.

Try it with a multi meter, you will see it makes no difference at all.

An electrical connection has more characteristics than just resistance, but to each his own!

Sorry about the thread hijack Kevin!

Dennis

PS I admit my approach to electrical connections may be overkill since I work on aircraft but what can it hurt? :bang:

 

[Mickeetwo]

I drilled and tapped the spacer block for a set screw. I tighten the terminal bolts and lock them down with the set screw

Pretty smart....I never would have thought of that :2thumbs:

 

[1BADK9]

Lock washer, well tightened, and checked regularly, also I pull the wires on occassion to be sure the crimped-on terminal lugs are still on good.......we all have our own little ways of doing stuff, mine are right for me. :2thumbs:

 

[Scooter28]

I have never had my battery cables come loose. I do have a Ridgeback, but the battery cables are not the problem. When I bought it in Vegas in 2008 (it's an 05) I had problems with the bike just dieing on me when i bought it. I went through an EHC, Voltage Regulator, then finally a key switch. I believe the recall came out in 07. So the VR i put in should have been modified. I put in the WP kit myself along with the 3 position key switch. I may still try the Voltage regulator. I believe the voltage is spiking when i get on it over 4000 rpm's and shutting the bike down. The only other thing is the ignition box?
Before my bike cranks the voltage from the battery terminals usually reads 12.5 -13.5 Volts. When it is running it registers over 14 volts. Does this seem a little high? I as well have worked on aircraft (F-15E's, F-22's, F-16, and A-10) as an Avionics troop and know a little about electronics. Any help is appreciated, as I am tired of looking at my garage decoration and want to get back to riding without the fear of breaking down somewhere. Thanks for the help gentlemen.

 

[spadesluck]

I drilled and tapped the spacer block for a set screw. I tighten the terminal bolts and lock them down with the set screw

You should take a pic of that to let other see what you are talking about. Thats a good idea. :up:

 

[Ridgeback Boy]

Scooter28, what did you find out? I have the same symptoms, bike stalls out at 3000-4000 rpms. Bike starts and idles fine but cuts out and backfires real bad if you rev it around 3000 or so.

 

[bdmridgeback]

Scooter28, what did you find out? I have the same symptoms, bike stalls out at 3000-4000 rpms. Bike starts and idles fine but cuts out and backfires real bad if you rev it around 3000 or so.

Check the voltage of the charging system... 2005 models had a recall on Votage Regulators, many were bad. The bike could be charging at too high of voltage and effecting the ignition.

The Carb could not be tuned correctly. As it cools off, it will lean out. 3000 RPM is the transition point onto the Main jet. Could be too lean on the main jet.

Aside from one of those, you could have a single loose power or ground somewhere in your wire plus install but I would say it is a Carb tuning issue more than anything.