)4 Big Dog Pit Bull wont start

[DRBarnhart]

hey dennis,i know thats where the timming is set but is the timming on these dogs oretty much set and not adjustable

You turn that plate and the timing will follow. Don't believe me? Give it a try...

Dennis

 

[PureDestruction]

You turn that plate and the timing will follow. Don't believe me? Give it a try...

Dennis

i won't be able to tell the diff mine wont start as is

 

[DRBarnhart]

i have a mutimeter thats about my knowledge of that. lol I think i'll waite till the morning my mind is blown and my back is shot. I'm sure its the Cam sensor cause i have no light.

I can appreciate that!! I also can appreciate a guy like you that has the tenacity to stick with his troubleshooting until he finds the problem. :2thumbs:

Let me know if there's anything else I might be able to do for you!

Dennis

 

[DRBarnhart]

i won't be able to tell the diff mine wont start as is

And if you turn it too far from where it is right now it will never start!!! :lol:

Dennis

 

[mobsta]

i know this to be true as i have adjusted timming on many harleys that way but was told here and by the dealer there not adjustable,some day i will try it but i got it runnin to good to play with it,i always say if it aint broke dont fix it.oh i believe you and im not questioning your know how.

 

[PureDestruction]

And if you turn it too far from where it is right now it will never start!!! :lol:

Dennis

Yeah thanks man would be easier over the phone. I'll give it hell in the morning please stay tunned or shoot me you phone#. might be a hell of alot easier. Either way thanks guys

 

[mobsta]

hey hows it going up and runnin?pull that cam sensor?

 

[PureDestruction]

not yet, going to check out the cam sensor in a few not sure what i'll find or what to look at or how to test it

 

[PureDestruction]

Cam Sensor Pics

Looks Fine. Now what? How can I Test it?

 

[mobsta]

hm,im no expert on this electrical chit ,the ones i have seen bad are cracked and burned,that dosent look badbut who knows,im not sure how you would check it but maybe someone chime in here,

 

[DRBarnhart]

Looks Fine. Now what? How can I Test it?

It looks OK but that doesn't mean that it is.

Here's a couple of quick checks you can do with your multimeter while the sensor is out and blowing in the breeze...

Coming out of the ignition module there should be a couple of pigtails, one with four wires and the other with three. The three wire connector goes to your cam sensor and should have a red, black, and green wire in it. Now take your multimeter, set it to the RX1 scale, put the black meter lead on the sensor plate and on the connector that goes to the sensor (not the side that goes to the ignition module!) then with the red lead check for continuity from the backing plate to each of the wires individually. If you get any value other than "open" the sensor is bad.

Now put the red multimeter lead on the green wire coming from the sensor and your black lead on the black wire coming from the sensor, you should get an "open". Switch the leads from the meter (black for red, red for black), you should get something like 300K to 750K ohms, if you don't the sensor is bad.

I have to go to work now but I'll try and check on your progress later.

Good luck! :2thumbs:

Dennis

PS If I knew what type of multimeter you had I could get a little more specific on the settings.

PPS Did you ever check the coil like I mentioned earlier?

 

[PureDestruction]

meter

CEN-TECH P3772 tried to up load photo's i took of it but says file exceds limit? ok This is what i have. Don't know how to use all the functions. I Emailed ya pic of my meter

 

[PureDestruction]

It looks OK but that doesn't mean that it is.

Here's a couple of quick checks you can do with your multimeter while the sensor is out and blowing in the breeze...

Coming out of the ignition module there should be a couple of pigtails, one with four wires and the other with three. The three wire connector goes to your cam sensor and should have a red, black, and green wire in it. Now take your multimeter, set it to the RX1 scale, put the black meter lead on the sensor plate and on the connector that goes to the sensor (not the side that goes to the ignition module!) then with the red lead check for continuity from the backing plate to each of the wires individually. If you get any value other than "open" the sensor is bad.

Now put the red multimeter lead on the green wire coming from the sensor and your black lead on the black wire coming from the sensor, you should get an "open". Switch the leads from the meter (black for red, red for black), you should get something like 300K to 750K ohms, if you don't the sensor is bad.

I have to go to work now but I'll try and check on your progress later.

Good luck! :2thumbs:

Dennis

PS If I knew what type of multimeter you had I could get a little more specific on the settings.

PPS Did you ever check the coil like I mentioned earlier?

I don't know what an RX1 scale is

 

[PureDestruction]

Now put the red multimeter lead on the green wire coming from the sensor and your black lead on the black wire coming from the sensor, you should get an "open". Switch the leads from the meter (black for red, red for black), you should get something like 300K to 750K ohms, if you don't the sensor is bad.

for this part of it i get 674

but i cant get the other things you mentioned to do anything

red lead check for continuity from the backing plate to each of the wires individually. If you get any value other than "open" the sensor is bad.
I get nothing when i do this.

 

[PureDestruction]

Now when i test the coil, i get 3.3 ohms for the sides
and 11.47 ohms where the plug wires go

 

[mobsta]

you had nothing before right

 

[mobsta]

is your cam sensor back in and bike all together?if so try cranking just for chits and giggles

 

[DRBarnhart]

Now when i test the coil, i get 3.3 ohms for the sides and 11.47 ohms where the plug wires go

When you measured this did you have your meter on the "200" setting? (It's at about the 10 o'clock position inside the ohms scale.)

I'm thinking you did because your primary reading is right on but are you sure when got the 11.47 that there wasn't a "K" somewhere in the window? If you're not sure, after you take your reading across the primary using the "200" scale, switch it to "20K" and take a reading across the secondary (where the plug wires go).

What do you get?

Dennis

 

[DRBarnhart]

Now put the red multimeter lead on the green wire coming from the sensor and your black lead on the black wire coming from the sensor, you should get an "open".

see below for a possible explanation...

Switch the leads from the meter (black for red, red for black), you should get something like 300K to 750K ohms, if you don't the sensor is bad.

for this part of it i get 674

That'll work if there's "K" lurking somewhere on your meter's screen!

red lead check for continuity from the backing plate to each of the wires individually. If you get any value other than "open" the sensor is bad.

I get nothing when i do this.

Nothing as in no number? Maybe a "OL" or something? If that's the case then you have an "open" which means your sensor passes this test too.

If you're still not sure, take a pic of the readings so I can see what your meter is telling you.

Dennis

 

[DRBarnhart]

A little recap...

So we can keep track of where we are...

Coil values as measured with coil wires disconnected-
1. primary (between red and yellow, should be ~3 ohms, meter on "200" ohms) =
2. secondary (between spark plug wire holes, should be 13K to 14K ohms, meter on "20K" ohms) =

Cam sensor values as measured on the pigtail going to the sensor (you can just set your meter on the "2M" ohms scale for all of these) -
1. From each wire on the pigtail to the backing plate (black lead on plate, should be "open") =
2. With red lead on green wire and black lead on black wire (should be "open") =
3. With black lead on green wire and red lead on black wire (should be 300K to 750K ohms) =

Just "quote" this post and put in the numbers that you get...

Dennis

PS Just remember, with your meter turned "on" an "open" looks just like what you get on any ohms scale (the range from about 10 to 1 o'clock) with the leads not touching anything. Make sense?