squeaky belt
- Thread starter mobsta
- Start date
2004BC
FREEDOM!!!
Thanks man!
I'll follow this procedure this weekend and see if I can get it perfect. I'm sure I'm going to replace the pulley(or do the insert) and belt at some point but not untill winter downtime.FWIW I have 100 miles on the Lowes spray teflon. I pushed the bike slowly into the garage and listened. No noise at all. If nothing else the spray does better than any of the other quick fixes so far! I'm guessing here but a perfect alignment AND the spray might equal a squeekless ride. Time will tell....
2004BC
FREEDOM!!!
COOL! I'm going to hold off on the alignment until it starts sqeeking again just to see how many miles it lasts and let everyone know. This is encouraging!
mcgroom
Well-Known Member
I talked to a company about doing this for me earlier in the year and it is extremely costly. Not only that, the coating will wear off at some ppoint and you will be right back where you started.
As Ray said earlier, Supermax is by far the best option. He uses your pulley so no worries on getting everything matched up.
Personally I am going a different direction once I getting the wedding out of the way and paid down a bit. :bang:
TheDeadOne
Banned
Just to give you guys an idea here what I'm talking about. It may not mean much too some of you, but here it goes. The following has been experienced with my personal bike and along with customers bikes as well, complaining of the same problem "BELT NOISE".
The squeaking sound you can hear comes from many different causation's.
Belt chaffing against the pulley (Misalignment) - Check Pulley Torque & Align Rear Tire.
Belt Deflection too loose - Adjust Belt Tension.
*Even a belt that is too tight makes noise (a kind of slight growling, not to mention it adds a "lot of stress" to the bearings, and increasing the risk of bearing failure!) - Adjust Belt Tension.
*Even loose motor mounts (Top Mount Especially), can make a "chirping" sound when engaging and disengaging the throttle, even ever so slightly. - Check Mounts for correct Torque.
There are Pro's and Con's with everything. This is also the case between the "chain drive" and "belt drive". Mostly all belt drive pulleys come manufactured with some type of a final "dry film lubricant" coating on them, to minimize the chaffing effects caused by the belt drive itself. This coating is impregnated into the metal and is much heavier that you or I can apply, it's baked on. But even these coatings wear off during use over a period of time. That's why you see the experimentation use of many different materials for a coating. After any pulley has worn off it's coating, it's almost impossible to stop any noise created between the belt and the pulley.
In cases even when properly aligned, where the pulley has worn to the point of making noise. The only options are: Temp. & Quick Fix is the use of "dry film lubricants". But this is short lived, and must be repeated periodically.
Permanent Fix (until worn out again): To re-ring pulley or totally replace with new.
Please understand that two thing can prolong the life of a pulley.
1) Mostly - Constant proper "belt" alignment.
2) Slightly - The periodic addition of an added "dry film lubricant".
The second is "NOT" a "cure all" for the inevitable whatsoever! But the addition of these products, "on scheduled regimented intervals" has shown to gradually extent the life of the pulleys over time. It also known to reduce what's as "belt chirping" as well.
Just my thoughts here.
The squeaking sound you can hear comes from many different causation's.
Belt chaffing against the pulley (Misalignment) - Check Pulley Torque & Align Rear Tire.
Belt Deflection too loose - Adjust Belt Tension.
*Even a belt that is too tight makes noise (a kind of slight growling, not to mention it adds a "lot of stress" to the bearings, and increasing the risk of bearing failure!) - Adjust Belt Tension.
*Even loose motor mounts (Top Mount Especially), can make a "chirping" sound when engaging and disengaging the throttle, even ever so slightly. - Check Mounts for correct Torque.
There are Pro's and Con's with everything. This is also the case between the "chain drive" and "belt drive". Mostly all belt drive pulleys come manufactured with some type of a final "dry film lubricant" coating on them, to minimize the chaffing effects caused by the belt drive itself. This coating is impregnated into the metal and is much heavier that you or I can apply, it's baked on. But even these coatings wear off during use over a period of time. That's why you see the experimentation use of many different materials for a coating. After any pulley has worn off it's coating, it's almost impossible to stop any noise created between the belt and the pulley.
In cases even when properly aligned, where the pulley has worn to the point of making noise. The only options are: Temp. & Quick Fix is the use of "dry film lubricants". But this is short lived, and must be repeated periodically.
Permanent Fix (until worn out again): To re-ring pulley or totally replace with new.
Please understand that two thing can prolong the life of a pulley.
1) Mostly - Constant proper "belt" alignment.
2) Slightly - The periodic addition of an added "dry film lubricant".
The second is "NOT" a "cure all" for the inevitable whatsoever! But the addition of these products, "on scheduled regimented intervals" has shown to gradually extent the life of the pulleys over time. It also known to reduce what's as "belt chirping" as well.
Just my thoughts here.
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TheDeadOne
Banned
"DIDO" :2thumbs:This is part of my weekly routine, it's just automatic.
2004BC
FREEDOM!!!
Thanks again for the information! Much appreciated!
Here's a pretty interesting bike/pulley story for you. My 1981 Shovelhead Chopper is actually a 1981 Sturgis model with original factory front and back belt drives. The bike has 28 years of riding on it, around the US, Canada, etc. It's on it's second primary belt and 3rd rear drive belt but ORIGINAL pulleys. Never made any noise and still doesn't. (Haven't touched rear tire alignment since 1989 when I did the last major customizing that made it into what you see here). PLUS I've never sprayed, wiped, or done anything to the belt or pulleys whatsoever. Strange but true!
1981 FXBD Sturgis
TheDeadOne
Banned
:2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
Nice Bike!
Primaries don't "chirp" they "WHINE"!
And if alignments off....Well the belt will be off as well shortly!
I can believe what you're saying about the secondary, I've seen that as well.
Just goes to show you, "They DON'T build them like they used too"! :2thumbs:
Nice Bike!
Primaries don't "chirp" they "WHINE"!
And if alignments off....Well the belt will be off as well shortly!
I can believe what you're saying about the secondary, I've seen that as well.
Just goes to show you, "They DON'T build them like they used too"! :2thumbs:
So, I spray mine down weekly just like I check the battery lugs, tire pressure, exhaust studs and many other things. Just preventive maintenance.
What choices you make depends on how many miles you do. If you are just barhopping all the time then I would just spray it down weekly and not worry about the squeal.
If you are a long distance rider and put on 20,000 miles a year like several here do then I would have the Supermax pulley alteration done which is what I will be doing this winter.
I'm on my second pully and belt after 60,000 miles so in the long run the Supermax makes sense for me but may not for you.
TheDeadOne
Banned
Here's a little known secret used by some, using these products & the how to.
"Lubri-Bond": This is a dry film "graphite" spray! It can be found at most Bearing Supply companies or possibly on the web as well. The addition of this product applied directly to your pulleys ("NOT" BELTS!) greatly reduces the friction & wear of both the pulleys and belt! It drys in just a few minutes to the touch. I use 2 or 3 good heavy coats, "not runny"! Let it dry for 24 hrs. before actual reassembly and use.
"Multi Teflon" & "Tri-Flow": These both come commonly advertised as lubricating sprays that contain "Teflon" as the primary lubricant. Both can be found at specified retail locations or possibly on the web as well. Both can be applied to "Belts & Pulleys", and have proven to "significantly" reduce belt wear, an "minimally" reduce pulley wear. Spray on a "liberal" coat (NOT RUNNY, JUST WET) to all required components, wipe off any excess with a dry towel or rag. Allow to dry to a "lightly" tacky state to ensure good bonding. Note: Some components, like fully assembled "belt & pulleys" systems require to be moved (rotated) in order to thoroughly coat entire surfaces. Once the one area has been completed and has dried to a tacky state, rotate assembly as needed to the adjacent area. Spray overlap is OK, just repeat previous procedures until entire assembly is completed!
Personally, I recommend the use of both product applications to maximize the "overall" wear reduction in both the belt & pulleys. This also reduces the required maintenance schedule of re-coating components. But the first stage of this process (the application of "Lubri-Bond") requires the removal and dis-assembly of the rear tire & pulley in order to ensure protection to other components that do "not" need coating.
But the second process alone will "minimally" suffice, but will incur a little more wear and require a more regimented (frequent) maintenance schedule of re-coating components.
Both of these process also help ease or eliminate the problem known as "belt squeak" as well.
Just my thoughts here. :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
"Lubri-Bond": This is a dry film "graphite" spray! It can be found at most Bearing Supply companies or possibly on the web as well. The addition of this product applied directly to your pulleys ("NOT" BELTS!) greatly reduces the friction & wear of both the pulleys and belt! It drys in just a few minutes to the touch. I use 2 or 3 good heavy coats, "not runny"! Let it dry for 24 hrs. before actual reassembly and use.
"Multi Teflon" & "Tri-Flow": These both come commonly advertised as lubricating sprays that contain "Teflon" as the primary lubricant. Both can be found at specified retail locations or possibly on the web as well. Both can be applied to "Belts & Pulleys", and have proven to "significantly" reduce belt wear, an "minimally" reduce pulley wear. Spray on a "liberal" coat (NOT RUNNY, JUST WET) to all required components, wipe off any excess with a dry towel or rag. Allow to dry to a "lightly" tacky state to ensure good bonding. Note: Some components, like fully assembled "belt & pulleys" systems require to be moved (rotated) in order to thoroughly coat entire surfaces. Once the one area has been completed and has dried to a tacky state, rotate assembly as needed to the adjacent area. Spray overlap is OK, just repeat previous procedures until entire assembly is completed!
Personally, I recommend the use of both product applications to maximize the "overall" wear reduction in both the belt & pulleys. This also reduces the required maintenance schedule of re-coating components. But the first stage of this process (the application of "Lubri-Bond") requires the removal and dis-assembly of the rear tire & pulley in order to ensure protection to other components that do "not" need coating.
But the second process alone will "minimally" suffice, but will incur a little more wear and require a more regimented (frequent) maintenance schedule of re-coating components.
Both of these process also help ease or eliminate the problem known as "belt squeak" as well.
Just my thoughts here. :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
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Can-Dog1
Rob
BELT SQUEELING PROBLEMS SOLVED!
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Here's the storey. I ride an 04 Mastiff, I'm sick of the squeeling on long hauls, tired of trying to line the belt up all the time. I call Rich at Precision Bike Works in Erie PA. Here's the info I get.
- Swing arm bushing is probably shot! BD has an upgrade bushng kit. (Go Figure) By the way, the new upgrade is STEEL!
- Need to have new pully put on! "We all know about the new teflon pully"
- Need to have a new belt put on!
- Need to have the engine and drive line set up and re-lined!
OK, if this is what it takes, I load up the dog and drive 5 hours to Erie P.A.
Gotta say it now, Rich and his employees have been great to deal with and I would recommend this shop and his Tech to everyone.
After the Tech Jerrad tears the bike down, he finds the main drive gear in the transmission is wearing bad. "Do you think this was caused by the stock swing arm design creating strain on the gear"? Could be I'm told.
Two days in the shop, $1,700.00 bucks later I'm back on the road.
Here's the issue I've got. If BD knew this swing arm bushing was shit, why did they wait so long to post a dealer bulletin on it?
Obvously BD knew the orginal stock pully on these bike had defects in production and none of them are true. That's why the design change in the pulley in '05.
So, anyone hauling it on an '04, I strongly suggest you get your bikes in to the dealers and have the swing arm bushing changed, the new pulley and belt installed. I've read all the posts about putting soap, W-D on the belts and everything else to get ride of the squeel, unfourtuantly the issue seems be the swing arm bushing, and in my opinion if the fucking bushing is moving that much to fuck up a drive gear, then hold on to your ass when the rear tire slides out from under you. It's only a matter of time.
Oh by the Rich and Jerrad "NICE JOB GUYS" and thanks for the great service.
__________________
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Here's the storey. I ride an 04 Mastiff, I'm sick of the squeeling on long hauls, tired of trying to line the belt up all the time. I call Rich at Precision Bike Works in Erie PA. Here's the info I get.
- Swing arm bushing is probably shot! BD has an upgrade bushng kit. (Go Figure) By the way, the new upgrade is STEEL!
- Need to have new pully put on! "We all know about the new teflon pully"
- Need to have a new belt put on!
- Need to have the engine and drive line set up and re-lined!
OK, if this is what it takes, I load up the dog and drive 5 hours to Erie P.A.
Gotta say it now, Rich and his employees have been great to deal with and I would recommend this shop and his Tech to everyone.
After the Tech Jerrad tears the bike down, he finds the main drive gear in the transmission is wearing bad. "Do you think this was caused by the stock swing arm design creating strain on the gear"? Could be I'm told.
Two days in the shop, $1,700.00 bucks later I'm back on the road.
Here's the issue I've got. If BD knew this swing arm bushing was shit, why did they wait so long to post a dealer bulletin on it?
Obvously BD knew the orginal stock pully on these bike had defects in production and none of them are true. That's why the design change in the pulley in '05.
So, anyone hauling it on an '04, I strongly suggest you get your bikes in to the dealers and have the swing arm bushing changed, the new pulley and belt installed. I've read all the posts about putting soap, W-D on the belts and everything else to get ride of the squeel, unfourtuantly the issue seems be the swing arm bushing, and in my opinion if the fucking bushing is moving that much to fuck up a drive gear, then hold on to your ass when the rear tire slides out from under you. It's only a matter of time.
Oh by the Rich and Jerrad "NICE JOB GUYS" and thanks for the great service.
__________________
2004BC
FREEDOM!!!
Not yet. Been on vacation/work for the last 2 weeks and won't be back in NY until the weekend. Then I will be adding some 100 miles at a shot as I ride it to work and back. I'll definitely keep you posted!:up: