EHC problems...again. Not typical.

drummin777

Active Member
So...I just had a new EHC installed in October under warranty work. They replaced the older jelly type with the new yellow one with the hard resin in it. So, I working on some other stuff, and I notice my EHC is loose. I tried to tighten the nuts which were about to fall off and the studs spin with the nut. Called Big Dog, and they said "Yeah the ridgids do that. The vibration rips the studs out of the EHC. Happens all the time." WTF? Then they bawked when I implied it should be covered under warranty. I love my bike, but its getting to the point of riding = repairing. Looks like another trip to the dealer before my warranty runs out next month.:bang:
 

Eric

Banned
let the warrenty replace it, the dealer installed it right, let them fix it, when thay install the new one, I took mine apart installed some ruber insulating tape to the under side of ehc about 1/8 thick, reinstall nuts on studs, dont over tighten just snug then then double nut w/ blue loctite...
 
Don't know who you talked to at big dog but they are 100% wrong. The older EHCs were like tin foil and did rip the studs out way too easy. You got a new EHC installed, it had better have a USB diagnostic connector or you were robbed, the EHC was over torqued when it was installed. It has nothing to do with vibration. On my tip of the week #3 I stated 15in-Ibs is all those screws should be tighten with a nyloc nut. Your dealer over torqued. I'd make your dealer fix.
 

Eric

Banned
night train mine it the newer one, i just did it for precaution, dont think it would hurt also zip tied the harmess connector around the ehc since mine broke the screws right after 500 miles after 500 mile service no that dodnt tighten i watched probbly from factory
 

drummin777

Active Member
Don't know who you talked to at big dog but they are 100% wrong. The older EHCs were like tin foil and did rip the studs out way too easy. You got a new EHC installed, it had better have a USB diagnostic connector or you were robbed, the EHC was over torqued when it was installed. It has nothing to do with vibration. On my tip of the week #3 I stated 15in-Ibs is all those screws should be tighten with a nyloc nut. Your dealer over torqued. I'd make your dealer fix.
its got the usb hook-up. i am gonna make appointment and take it back. another 2.5 hour trip to th dealer.:bang: :bang:
 

Marco Polo

Newbie DELUXE
So...I just had a new EHC installed in October under warranty work. They replaced the older jelly type with the new yellow one with the hard resin in it. So, I working on some other stuff, and I notice my EHC is loose. I tried to tighten the nuts which were about to fall off and the studs spin with the nut. Called Big Dog, and they said "Yeah the ridgids do that. The vibration rips the studs out of the EHC. Happens all the time." WTF? Then they bawked when I implied it should be covered under warranty. I love my bike, but its getting to the point of riding = repairing. Looks like another trip to the dealer before my warranty runs out next month.:bang:
What's with this attitude that it's ok to just chalk this shit up to "oh, that's just the vibration that did that, it's normal."? WTF... How about designing things to where that's NOT normal for your product?? I just bought mine and it's my first American bike and I didn't realize it was so common for battery terminals to come loose every 4 days (it got delivered Sunday with a new battery installed) so I made the mistake of trying to start my bike without thinking to tighten mine first. I fried the battery and melted the terminal and the dealer gave me the same type of reasoning... "You should always put a wrench to them before you head out for a ride. The vibration makes them come loose and even a quarter turn will cause this to happen again if you don't." Sorry but my "jap crap" ran for years without ever needing the battery terminal tightened. I don't really recall anything rattling loose on it actually, especially after only a few miles. Sure, it was "only" 102ci but that's still larger then most Harleys and I hear they have the same problem so somehow he figured because they suck I should have known about this. What gives? Just because it's sometimes fun to wrench on the ole' bike and do some mods doesn't mean they should make it mandatory before every ride. I'm hoping this won't be a habitual problem but unfortunately I keep reading more and more about guys who give up on their BDMs, AIHs, BBCs, etc because it's just too much repairing from shit just falling apart and there's not enough riding.
 

05ridgeback

Active Member
big dog told me the same thing,,,,you have a rigid

i replaced with new one myself and used velcro with the lock nuts ,,,so if it did brake the studs ....its not going anywhere
 

LDO

The Cleaner
Troop Supporter
Drummin, sorry to hi-jack your thread but.....

"You should always put a wrench to them before you head out for a ride. The vibration makes them come loose and even a quarter turn will cause this to happen again if you don't."
That's actually good advice. I don't care what you ride, if you're not doing some sort of pre-flight check on your machine (regardless of a quick shot to the bar or a thousand mile road trip), YOU ARE WRONG and will most likely get left stranded somewhere and will probably deserve it.

It's been my experience that "cool costs" in some form or another.
Either $$, time or sweat but usually all 3. :D

I keep reading more and more about guys who give up on their BDMs, AIHs, BBCs, etc because it's just too much repairing from shit just falling apart and there's not enough riding.
And eventually, only the people that deserve to ride a Big Dog (or any other type of high performance custom V-Twin)....will.:D
 

Marco Polo

Newbie DELUXE
I don't care what you ride, if you're not doing some sort of pre-flight check on your machine (regardless of a quick shot to the bar or a thousand mile road trip), YOU ARE WRONG and will most likely get left stranded somewhere and will probably deserve it.


And eventually, only the people that deserve to ride a Big Dog (or any other type of high performance custom V-Twin)....will.:D
Nice assumption but you're wrong. I DID do a pre-ride inspection (as always) and checked several points on the bike but I've simply never owned any bike that requires I grab a wrench, pull the seat, and retighten everything inside and out. Now I know it's needed with these but that still doesn't make it right. It also explains why so few people seem to get any real miles on these "high performance custom V-Twins". You SHOULD be embarassed and demanding more for your money, not telling new owners (and fellow riders) they deserve to get stuck on the side of the road for not knowing all the little pitfalls inherent in these bikes that others don't have.
 

LDO

The Cleaner
Troop Supporter
Marco,
just because I used your quote, doesn't mean I was firing directly back at you or bashing you.

I was simply posting heads-up information that everyone may find useful like ensuring they do a pre-ride check (and trying to keep some humor so that feelings don't get hurt) guess I screwed that up.

My comment about being stuck on the side of the road was directed to guys that just hop on their bikes and go WITHOUT a check, and then wonder why something falls off or why their bike is broken.

I still hold true to my initial statement: they get what they deserve...(it's ok to disagree)
If I take off on my bike and my mirror flys off 2 miles from the house, shame on me for not checking my mirror.

However, I did read this post of yours as well as your last one about your battery issue and you didn't mention performing any type of pre-ride checks so how am I to know? You are a new owner right?

My bike has only failed me when I failed it. Either lack of loctite or that extra zip tie.

Sure, I have an older Big Dog and the electronics in the new ones have caused many some serious headaches but that's the kind of research that's done PRIOR to a purchase.

I'm done now. Lets not continue to 'bogart' Drummin's thread. If you got sumthin for me, you can shoot me a PM.

LDO sends.
 

Keith9397

New Member
One of the things every rider with American V-twin needs to remember is we are riding 100 year old technology in the newest form. If the selling dealer would have spent a little more time with you and explained some of the things you would experience you would have known what to expect. It is the unknowing that throws all of us sideways. You have a great bike! She is just a high maintenance woman. Enjoy your ride and you want sweat the weak spots. You have plenty of help out here.
 

Marco Polo

Newbie DELUXE
If the selling dealer would have spent a little more time with you and explained some of the things you would experience you would have known what to expect.
Exactly my thoughts. It's not so much that the issue happened but the attitude that I should have known these bikes vibrate themselves apart and that's what's so great about them somehow. In actuality I bought the 121" X-Wedge partially because it is supposedly much more solid and was specifically designed to NOT vibrate as much (21% less vibration claimed). The fact is however, I don't really think it was even vibration that caused it, I think the dealer just didn't tighten it up or check it before delivery like he signed off as doing. If he had I doubt seriously that the 30 miles or whatever I was able to put on it caused the problem. Given the hassle, I'm using this as a lesson and am going to pay particular attention to anything that can be affected by vibration including those terminals as well as the suggestions above.

By the way LDO, I completely agree with your assesment that anyone that just rides and never does an inspection first or maintenance is just asking to get themself stranded. I have a feeling though if we checked our BDM owners manuals and MSF course materials for pre-ride checklist points you wouldn't see battery terminals. Actually my manual is still sitting right here and looking at it, I can confirm it's not.
 

Fibersnake

Banjo Playing PsychoBilly
Marco,

You are probably right that the dealer did not do the proper PIC before delivery and thus made sure the stuff was tighten. When I say tighten I mean tighten properly and to proper torque. Regardless if it is a BDM dealer or the local Ford or Honda Dealer, dealers do not always do what they should.

As far as pre-checks go, IMHO since we are allot more suspectible to being stranded or worse having a wreck from something coming loose or not up to proper conditions, a pre-check is estintial.

That said, I am pretty sure (though I do not have it in front of me at this time) that even my Owners Manual indicated to check for loose bolts, proper fluids, tire inflation, tire damage, etc before each ride. I am pretty sure even the rice burner O & M say something similar.

The problem is that many (not saying anyone in particular) but many many folks do not read the O & M be it the BDM or the manual that comes with the new PC that was bought. Some of that can be seen on here with the many post of how long is the paint warrenty or chrome warrenty, or how do I check my oil, etc. All seem to be in the O & M.

I know that many folks have had issues with their bikes and I would be lying if I said that mine never had a problem. That said, for myself, my 2005 has never left me on the side of the road nor reluctant to get on it and go anywhere, be it running down the road to Shredder or going through 4 states to meet Marv and some others. I have over 20k on mine and would have had many more except I have spent 70% of my time since owning it out of country where I could not ride it.

Regardless of what many may have experienced and what many other assume, speaking from my own experience, I can not say that BDM is any worse than others including the Motor Company when it comes to reliability as long as one takes care of it as recommended and sticks to the basic which includes a pre-check. It sounds like you also follow those basic.

Will say one thing to many that may be reading this, highly recommend that one gets a good torque wrench or better yet two. That way when the owner goes to check those bolts, the owner can make sure that they are up to the proper specs and thus not strip out, elongate, or not getting it to the design specs, etc and thus increase the relability by a great deal.

The two torque wrench are to cover the small and do so in inch pounds and the mid size for the foot pounds. One is less likely to strip a bolt that is spec at 120" pounds with a 0-250" lb torque wrench than using a 10-75' lb torque wrench and tightening to 10' lbs.

Also cannot over recommend use of proper thread sealent (Loctite), sure will help to make it less likely to be stranded on the road or worse.
 
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