Does anybody know of a fix for a stripped K9 oil tank drain plug?

[badyellowvette]

Don't know how it happened Never had a problem with the drain plug. Removed it today to change oil went to put it back in and all it does is turn. Started it by hand No problem screwing it in, would not tighten up.

 

[SKOGDOG]

There’s a used one on eBay for $250 or so and a new one for $380. Maybe just repair this one. The removal would probably be messy (dripping lines and all), but I’d think to remove the tank and re-tap the drain plug would be not too difficult-see below. Then figure out what kind of gasket to use (no O-ring).
Maybe someone else is aware of a specialty plug. I’ve no specific experience with this.

 

[badyellowvette]

Thanks, changing tanks would be my last option. I did grease up a tap and ran it in there. Seem to screw in better but I don't have anything for gasket just O-rings.

 

[HMAN]

If there is enough material left, perhaps you could oversize it and put in a helicoil?

 

[badyellowvette]

Where can I find an new O-ring?

 

[knothead]

Where can I find an new O-ring?

Probably any parts store has a o ring

 

[badyellowvette]

I was wondering if it needed to be high temperature or something special.

 

[badyellowvette]

There’s a used one on eBay for $250 or so and a new one for $380. Maybe just repair this one. The removal would probably be messy (dripping lines and all), but I’d think to remove the tank and re-tap the drain plug would be not too difficult-see below. Then figure out what kind of gasket to use (no O-ring).
Maybe someone else is aware of a specialty plug. I’ve no specific experience with this.

Why Should you not use an O ring? That was somewhat of an O ring that was on it.

 

[badyellowvette]

Does anybody have the torque specs on that drain plug?

 

[Mikeinjersey]

Does anybody have the torque specs on that rain plug?

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

[Mr. Wright]

Tap it 1/8'' pipe. That's a tapered thread, so you won't need an o=ring.

 

[badyellowvette]

Tap it 1/8'' pipe. That's a tapered thread, so you won't need an o=ring.

Thank you.

 

[badyellowvette]

I was able to save my stripped drain plug, Seems good for now anyhow. After running tap into the tank, I put a new O ring on the drain plug and wrap the threads with yellow Teflon tape. The plug snugged up as tight as I usually make it so I'm good for now.
The other issue that I constantly had since I've owned this bike Is oil level. I have used a oil scavenger in the past and I'm never quite sure if I have the right amount in or not. So this oil change I drained the crankcase also the book calls for a little less than 3 quarts. On the side stand I put three quarts in nothing on the dipstick took it for a ride to warm it up, nothing on the dipstick. I can see oil at the bottom of the tank. If the three quarts are correct, how do I ever know if I'm low?

 

[Mr. Wright]

I was able to save my stripped drain plug, Seems good for now anyhow. After running tap into the tank, I put a new O ring on the drain plug and wrap the threads with yellow Teflon tape. The plug snugged up as tight as I usually make it so I'm good for now.
The other issue that I constantly had since I've owned this bike Is oil level. I have used a oil scavenger in the past and I'm never quite sure if I have the right amount in or not. So this oil change I drained the crankcase also the book calls for a little less than 3 quarts. On the side stand I put three quarts in nothing on the dipstick took it for a ride to warm it up, nothing on the dipstick. I can see oil at the bottom of the tank. If the three quarts are correct, how do I ever know if I'm low?

Those few ounces of oil left in the engine is not going to hurt anything. If you rode it to warm it up before changing the oil, most of the oil will have been pumped back to the tank.
Apparently we haven't said this part enough, "DO NOT PULL THE PLUG ON THE BOTTOM OF THE ENGINE". Thread after thread on this.

 

[badyellowvette]

Those few ounces of oil left in the engine is not going to hurt anything. If you rode it to warm it up before changing the oil, most of the oil will have been pumped back to the tank.
Apparently we haven't said this part enough, "DO NOT PULL THE PLUG ON THE BOTTOM OF THE ENGINE". Thread after thread on this.

I did warm it up before I drained my oil tank and I was surprised how much oil came out of the crankcase. There was at least 12 ounces in there.

 

[Jersey James]

I understand why lots of members here on this forum, say to never drain the crankcase oil for fear of stripping the drain plug. BUT, I've been riding since 1970, own five bike and change my oil every thousand miles. And ALWAYS drain my crankcase, with NEVER a problem. I do use Teflon tape around the drain plug threads, and also use my noggin when tightening. Never a problem....

 

[Mickmorris]

I did warm it up before I drained my oil tank and I was surprised how much oil came out of the crankcase. There was at least 12 ounces in there.

The sump on your crankcase holds 20/22ozs. I don’t know I might be anal about certain things…But when I change the oil on my bikes… I drain the tank… add 3qts.. install my scavenger.. get a measuring cup that holds 22ozs+…run the bike until I have 22ozs in the cup…stop the bike…remove scavenger/ install filter/ add 22ozs to tank & call her good. If you have a scavenger you have that information at hand. Just follow their directions and you should never have to pull the bottom plug on your crankcase. Also if the oil in your tank isn’t reaching your dipstick grab a chopstick and when you add the 22ozs after cleaning out your crankcase stick it in the tank and mark it where the oil level is.