Manual or OEM CR's?

[Coolbreezin]

Both CR's are stuck in the closed position due to the rubber being compromised and probably build up of carbon. I know they are both stuck because I filled the rubber boots with penetrating oil and tapped on the tops with a socket extension and it freed them. I was able to start and ride the bike without issue. I need to r&r the CR's.
I'm estimating 50,000 miles on these units.

 

[mittens]

that much carbon maybe your pretty rich?

 

[Snuffy]

This should serve as a reminder to us all that cr maintenance should be something to consider more.

 

[Coolbreezin]

that much carbon maybe your pretty rich?

Probably, 92000+ miles on the factory engine. Hence, the manual CR's. Much easier to clean regularly.

 

[SKOGDOG]

I have about 70,000 miles without an issue—- never thought a thing about them—what can I do for maintenance?

 

[Coolbreezin]

I have about 70,000 miles without an issue—- never thought a thing about them—what can I do for maintenance?

Yea, I wouldnt be the one to answer that or I would have done it myself.
As general maintenance I guess run whatever carbon cleaner liquid you prefer. Which I rarely ever did. But I do know that to r&r the electric units, you will need a special tool. However, the manuals can be done with a basic socket.

 

[mleach72]

A good way to check the overall health and tune of your engine is to put a borescope into the cylinders. Yeah, you can pull your spark plugs and inspect them, but that is more of a short-term check. That will let you know how the engine is running over the last few minutes. Checking the inside of your cylinders is more of a long-term check. As you can see, my cylinders and pistons are pretty clean. That means a good tune. I have seen pistons out of an engine that was running rich. It looks like there is a layer of pavement on the top of the piston. Obviously, I can't see the CR, but if the piston is that clean, I highly doubt that there is major carbon build-up on the CR.

 

[SKOGDOG]

OK…Blacktopper has a bore scope so that’s easy enough. I recall seeing a socket some clever guy made out of a deep well socket (?) to pull the electric CR’s. Wonder where I saw that post?

 

[Mickmorris]

OK…Blacktopper has a bore scope so that’s easy enough. I recall seeing a socket some clever guy made out of a deep well socket (?) to pull the electric CR’s. Wonder where I saw that post?

Might have been Shannon. I did see that post also sometime in the past. I just bought the S&S wrench. It works great. $50 bucks I think.

 

[kickstart]

Might have been Shannon. I did see that post also sometime in the past. I just bought the S&S wrench. It works great. $50 bucks I think.

Mick, it's $178.95 now. I need to measure yours and make one

 

[Coolbreezin]

A good way to check the overall health and tune of your engine is to put a borescope into the cylinders. Yeah, you can pull your spark plugs and inspect them, but that is more of a short-term check. That will let you know how the engine is running over the last few minutes. Checking the inside of your cylinders is more of a long-term check. As you can see, my cylinders and pistons are pretty clean. That means a good tune. I have seen pistons out of an engine that was running rich. It looks like there is a layer of pavement on the top of the piston. Obviously, I can't see the CR, but if the piston is that clean, I highly doubt that there is major carbon build-up on the CR.
View attachment 138297

Excellent point. Thank you.

 

[john sachs]

Realize, the S&S compression release wrench is a 2 PC. wrench.

 

[Coolbreezin]

Realize, the S&S compression release wrench is a 2 PC. wrench.

Yes sir. My mechanics have one. I've been with them since 2008. I'll just let them do it.

 

[kickstart]

Realize, the S&S compression release wrench is a 2 PC. wrench.

For that price it should be a lot more than 2 PC.

 

[Mickmorris]

For that price it should be a lot more than 2 PC.

I am pretty sure when I bought that in 2020/21 it was only like $50. That’s why I said shit might as well get one. Looks like you could just carefully cut a small hole at the top of a deep thinwall socket and it would work. I’m pretty sure that whoever it was that made one at home did exactly that as I recall.

 

[kickstart]

Mick, I'll just rent yours. Looking at yours and Harry's I see a lot of set up time to make one. I doubt a deep well socket would clear the Frame.

 

[Mickmorris]

Mick, I'll just rent yours. Looking at yours and Harry's I see a lot of set up time to make one. I doubt a deep well socket would clear the Frame.

Well I didn’t think about that Pat but you are probably right. I don’t rent tools out but I would borrow it to you anytime. Just lmk.

 

[Snuffy]

Mick, I'll just rent yours. Looking at yours and Harry's I see a lot of set up time to make one. I doubt a deep well socket would clear the Frame.

Thats why it’s 2 pieces so you can get it in there.

 

[Coolbreezin]

I’d probably switch to manuals and not look back. Once the electric ones start acting up, they never really earn your trust again. Burned fingers beat getting towed home.

Thank you!

I'll post in a few months or so regarding how it all works out.

 

[Coolbreezin]

Battery manufacturer sent me another replacement battery. They won't tell me what was wrong with the last two. But I installed it yesterday and my bike fired up w/o any resistance or hesitantion. Restarted the bike 2 more times w/o issue. Today I started the bike and went to my friends house. Hung out a few hours and rode home. All 5 starts in 2 days was without my touching the electric CRs. But the engine was cold.
So...I wonder if the batteries had a manufacturing flaw or if the CR's were hot and the metal was expanded causing too much strain on the battery. Hence, it crapping out?
Either way, my manuals should be here in a few days. I'll have them installed.