Did you back out both rear axle adjuster screws? There are two on each side, the front screw is a lock screw and they require anti-seize. You should also check the TIR (Total Indicator Runout) of your wheel as you might need to make adjustments. I check TIR before I remove wheels so I know where I'm starting from. Max run out is .030.Okay, thanks! First time and thought it better to be patient and ask than force it. I read about the adjusters being a pain. I have a new belt so it will be tighter than my used one. I backed out the tension bolts 10 turns each so I can keep them in sync to how they were originally. Ugh, guess I better do the bearings too, haha. Thank you for the help!
Thanks HMan! I enjoy the bike, she's a fun ride. To what points are you measuring from the axle divots? Or was this before the adjuster screws were moved. So if the heads round out, the best next step is to drill out and tap?Always remember, if it says BigDog, it aint gonna be inexpensive. Cool aint cheap. I learned early on, if the motor trans and rear end are all properly aligned, the belt should track almost perfectly forwards and backwards. I put a divit in the center of each axel end. I can use a set of calipers to measure each side so the wheel stays true. The rotor bolts Can stand a heat gun. Always a good idea to have a spare or two cause they will round out. Been there. Ace hardware has a decent stock of chromed hardware if needed. Again....it aint cheap. Keep working @ it. She'll come together eventually.
I'm thinking that your concern is the rotor carrier bolts into the hubs that should have blue loctite not anti-sieze. Are your rotors fixed or floating?Hi Kickstart. Yeah, I removed both lock screws and then exactly 10 turns each side on the adjuster screws. It helps that these are Allen heads so the key position is easily seen to record turns. But wasn't aware of TIR. Looks like another tool, it's endless. But good to have it done right, thank you! On another endless note, my brake rotors are measuring .15 so thinking these may need replacing (another $400). The hex bolts on the rotors have some kind of anti-seize. Do you know if these have to be heated to remove....or will they come on out with my breaker bar?
I'm thinking that your concern is the rotor carrier bolts into the hubs that should have blue loctite not anti-sieze. Are your rotors fixed or floating?
I'm thinking that they should be floating but may have been changed at some point. Send a pic if not sure.
Hex bolts on the rotors?
You can pick up a magnetic base and indicator at harbor freight that will be more than adequate for this type of work, TIR.
I use trammel points for the alignment and is the best way for me to know it's running straight.


You said stronger hexes and harbor freight but you get one or the other. Good or cheap. Best of luckYes, my concern is the hex bolts holding the rotor (holder)? I am guessing floating, with the c-clip buttons. I got one out but next one snapped my hex socket. I am cautious and patient so hiccups like this cause me to stop and evaluate so it can be done right. If it's just the blue that's great news! It appeared clear so I wasn't sure what it was. I'll buy a stronger set of hexes. Thanks for your explanations and I have Harbor Freights nearby. Good to learn about trammel points, something new to me. Thanks Kickstart!
Snuffy, I think sometimes the Internet has ears! I was watching some videos on YouTube and this magically popped up on my feed. Pretty interesting to see, especially the Craftsman and Snap On.You said stronger hexes and harbor freight but you get one or the other. Good or cheap. Best of luck
