Tappet screen

I have a 2007 big dog bulldog. I read somewhere that there's a tappet screen That helps the oil get to the top of the head. And it should be cleaned every time you do an oil change. My question is does my bike have won and where is it located?

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awg

Guru
It should have one. Someone could post a pic of where it is located. Some people have gone to check their screen just to find out there is not one there!
 

knothead

Second Chance Customs
You can clean it everytime you change oil thats good maintenance forsure....i clean mine about every 2nd oil change which is usually between 5000 to 6000 miles depending on riding conditions...
 

Easyrider

Member
Does anyone know where I can procure a tool to remove the tappet screen fastener? The closest I can find is a drag link socket that has a slot that is just a hair under 0.100". The fastener slot is ~ 0.090". I do not have a grinder nor access to one. I purchased the Jims tool ($45!!!) and the slot in it is too shallow to work. Considering how many Evos (and I believe shovelheads) that are still out there one would think there would a reasonably priced tool out there that would fit perfectly. And even a Harley branded tool (or S&S).

The last gorilla to install mine apparently never heard of a torque spec. It is on there TIGHT! I did purchase a kit that has a screen, spring and a fastener that can be easily removed with a standard wrench/socket. But I have to get this stupid thing off first.

I've looked all over and cannot find the right tool for this job. Hoping the experts on here can send some wisdom my way. Thanks in advance!
 

Easyrider

Member
This what I have. It works on the Pitbull but not the Chopper:( Proto prolly has other sizes? I just use a stubby screwdriver on the Chopper.

View attachment 136270View attachment 136271View attachment 136272
Thanks for responding. I have that same part number drag link socket and it's about .010" too thick to fit into the slot. The Jims tool would work fine if the business end was longer but it just isn't properly designed to get a good bite into the fastener. Odd for a Jims tool. Usually a trusted brand.

My Proglide has an S&S bottom end if that makes any difference and it probably does because the drag link socket we both have fits your Pitbull perfectly.

The fastener is really on there TIGHT! A proper size chisel and vice grips might work but I doubt a screwdriver would. I'm hoping to just secure the correct tool for the job instead of having to go neanderthal on this thing.
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Thanks for responding. I have that same part number drag link socket and it's about .010" too thick to fit into the slot. The Jims tool would work fine if the business end was longer but it just isn't properly designed to get a good bite into the fastener. Odd for a Jims tool. Usually a trusted brand.

My Proglide has an S&S bottom end if that makes any difference and it probably does because the drag link socket we both have fits your Pitbull perfectly.

The fastener is really on there TIGHT! A proper size chisel and vice grips might work but I doubt a screwdriver would. I'm hoping to just secure the correct tool for the job instead of having to go neanderthal on this thing.
Before you get too aggressive and break it off maybe you could try an induction heater tool. A little expensive but I've seen them do a great job safely heating nuts and bolts for removal when flames are not a good choice.
 

Easyrider

Member
That's a great idea Jersey Mike. I love your subs :)

I do have a heat gun that gets very hot. No flame, just electric coils. Sort of like a hair drier but a LOT hotter and no blower. I hadn't thought of that. I don't know how much help it will be at this point since I can't seem to find a tool that will give me a good bite on that fastener's slot. But if I can find a drag link socket or something else with a slightly thinner blade that might be the ticket for success. Who knows if that tappet screen has ever been serviced. ~ 22k miles and nearly 30 years old.... so I'm really keen to get the screen out of there for a good cleaning/replacement. Thanks for the tip! Heat is often your friend :)
 

Easyrider

Member
Thanks very much for the lead HMAN! I saw no way to place an order on that site and it won't let me open an account. The site seems to be geared towards selling to dealers and not individuals. I sent an e-mail asking for the specs on the tool. It does appear to have a thinner blade which is exactly what I need. I also asked how to go about making a purchase. I buy a lot through Cycle Gear which has a branch very close to me if vtwin won't sell direct retail. I guess I'll see if vtwin gets back to me this week. But again, thanks very much for the info. Hope it pans out!
 

Easyrider

Member
I've had one of those heavy duty impact drivers and a much smaller one for over 50 years. I rarely need it but it can be a life saver. There's no room to use it unless the carb is removed. That and none of my extensive array of hex bits I have are suitable enough to work. Once again, I'm looking for the right tool for the right job.

HMAN provided the info for that right tool. I contacted Dennis Kirk and they confirmed that the drag link socket blade measures at .090" thickness... exactly what I need. I believe the blade is ~ 3/4" long which should give it a good bite on the fastener. The suggestion of using heat may be needed... that thing has been in there for a long time. Perhaps since the motor was assembled. I will not be defeated but I will do it with style like a professional..not like a gorilla. Unless I am forced to get ugly with it :)

I'll be ordering that tool and will post an update if I make progress or not. Thanks again to all for your great info and suggestions!
 

Easyrider

Member
As I noted: The right tool for the right job. Thanks again HMAN! $45 Jims tool (black). Piece of junk. $11 drag link socket from Dennis Kirk (chrome) had the fastener out in two seconds. No disrespect intended but butchering a part to remove it? I wouldn't want someone like that ever touching my motorcycle!

Everything I was able to find had a blade that was 0.100" or thicker. The tool HMAN posted a link to is .090". Perfect!

I bought a new spring, filter screen, o-ring and fastener cap with a 6 point hex head so removing it in the future will be a breeze.


Thanks again to all!
 

Attachments

Chong

U-238
FWIW.. I got myself the 1/2" drive slot bit (HMAN's post).
Had to grind it a little. Tool was shown to me by Knothead. I already had an impact like Mick referenced . I end up putting a 1/2"drive extension on the impact, held it down to remove slack from the chain of events about to happen. Smacked with a hammer.. out it came (loosened).
 
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