I have a 2004 Mastiff. When I turn the key on, the right turn signal comes on. Sometimes riding down the road it comes on. The left turn signal works sometimes. I found a loose wire on the connector to the left pcb board. I'am learning how to use a multimeter. If i did this correctley, the pcb board is good. I have a good connection from the connector at the pcb board to the connector between the fuel tanks and from that connector to the next one under the seat. The bike has a wire plus system. Sorry I don't know what all the parts are called yet but I'am learning. I forgot but the horn and high and low head light do work. Thanks
Turn signals
- Thread starter mooney
- Start date
BadDawg Bill
Well-Known Member
Well, I sort of have the same problem with my WP kit. When I start the bike the right turn signal comes on (dash light but both front turn signals blink) I can hit the Right button and both go off. 5 -10 minutes into the ride both front turn signals come on and the bike dies.
Turn the key off/on a few times and start over. WP is trying to tell me it's my handlebar switches but I have had them out and they check out fine. Also checked all connections all secure. Tomorrow I'm going to disconnect the front turn signals and see if it still happens.
Turn the key off/on a few times and start over. WP is trying to tell me it's my handlebar switches but I have had them out and they check out fine. Also checked all connections all secure. Tomorrow I'm going to disconnect the front turn signals and see if it still happens.
For grins, this is where you put the ohm meter down and act, 'the good known ground.' Right now we have a right winker that comes on with key on. So with a bare tool like channel locks you can set one bare handle onto the winker, run the other handle to the handlebar, front end, someplace that looks like a better ground, than what the winker is bolted to in other words.
You next tool is a red wire; a black wire; 4 alligator clips; one attached to each end. Now, you have the gator clipped to the ground cable to the battery (-) side of the battery, key on, and you are all over that winker with the other end of the gator, touching that clip on the winker to cause a better ground, maybe... Get it?
Just a hunch there is a poor ground at the winker [is watt comes on] and it draws current as if on or running to the shortest path. I more think it's a glitch in the programming/processor/link that the winkers cause the engine to stop. Too much finger pointing to the box and its design, because those grounds sound solid once winky goes out after so many minutes. Right?
You next tool is a red wire; a black wire; 4 alligator clips; one attached to each end. Now, you have the gator clipped to the ground cable to the battery (-) side of the battery, key on, and you are all over that winker with the other end of the gator, touching that clip on the winker to cause a better ground, maybe... Get it?
Just a hunch there is a poor ground at the winker [is watt comes on] and it draws current as if on or running to the shortest path. I more think it's a glitch in the programming/processor/link that the winkers cause the engine to stop. Too much finger pointing to the box and its design, because those grounds sound solid once winky goes out after so many minutes. Right?
BadDawg Bill
Well-Known Member
I tested both front "winkies" with an ohm meter and they are not connected to each other. Haven't tried the ground wire although I will tomorrow. Something is giving the WP a ground signal to turn both on at the same time and then losing ground on the ign switch or cutting off 12v to the coils. This is a cluster F%uck..... $1,000 to rewire it and it lasts 200 miles.... I wired a bunch of bikes and this set up has me baffled.
If this ain't fixed by next weekend I will hot wire the headlight and coil and go riding.
If this ain't fixed by next weekend I will hot wire the headlight and coil and go riding.
mleach72
Well-Known Member
Touch either brake. It will restart the clock.