I have an 05 Ridgeback battery keeps on dying I recently noticed a red LED light on the right side of the battery tray it stays on when I turn off the key I don't even know what this is maybe somebody can let me know if it's going bad or I have to replace it but I don't know what it's called
Dead battery
- Thread starter mlarcey
- Start date
What battery do you have
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
He said it stays ON when the key is off.
That would run down the battery for sure.
Charge battery
Check light
turn on key check light
turn off key check light (and again after 1 minute)
If the light is off when you first try that good -- if its on, pull the switch and check switch and wiring for short.
If it goes on when you do key on good.
If it stays on after key off, I would pull the switch out and check it and the wires going to it.
I went with a NOCO lithium battery from Amazon had a lot of power started bike right up but next morning it was dead so I charged it back up and that's when I noticed the light on
That light is on as soon as I connect the battery but I did notice that my kill switch does not work anymore and also sometimes when I go to start the bike and hit the Run the battery will start to turn over then it seems like a fuse blows and the bike goes completely dead so I started disconnecting the battery and I started hearing clicking then I had juice again very weird
Lithium batteries require a specific charger. Also they are STRONGLY discouraged on these motorcycles. Hopefully you haven’t messed up your Thunderheart ignition.
I hear you but I was having these problems before changing to the lithium battery I hate the electrical I guess I'm just going to have to trace the wires and look for some kind of short
Deka
Post some pictures of what’s under the seat where that ignition module is
Jwooky
Well-Known Member
Lots of misinformation here. The new Lithium Iron batteries work perfectly, many of us have them.
I’m going on my fourth season with that exact NOCO battery, without issues and starting power is incredible, and no longer need to keep on a tender.
I would have ate at least 2 Deka’s by now.
I’m going on my fourth season with that exact NOCO battery, without issues and starting power is incredible, and no longer need to keep on a tender.
I would have ate at least 2 Deka’s by now.
The information I stated comes directly from a Certified BigDog Master Technician. Obviously anyone can put whatever they want in their bikes. So you can call it misinformation if you like but… it is information from a reputable source.
Shredder
Active Member
Jwooky, I'm so glad you brought up all of the misinformation concerning Lithium Iron batteries. I work with distributors who sell these and the issue is that you need to focus on Lithium Iron Phosphate (which is called LifePO4). These batteries do not get hot, are small and lightweight, with very strong cranking power and long life. They have also come down greatly in price recently. I put a Power-Sonic LifePO4 in my 06 K9 six months ago and have had no issues. You will have to buy a Lithium battery tender, but this change in technology is very beneficial to our bikes, in my opinion.
Attachments
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
For the ignition light to be lit 2 functions need to take place. 1 the ignition switch needs to be in the on position and 2 the run button needs to be depressed. You have neither. The EHC provides power to the ignition module. You may have a toasted EHC. Even if the ignition switch was shorted the run button would also need to be shorted in order for the ignition light to be lit. The EHC can do some wacky shit. Disconnect the starter green wire while you test and look for shorts in the system. You can put a meter on it to monitor it for voltage instead of the starter cranking.
The reason your bike seams to blow a fuse is more than likely the Lithium battery sensing an overload and shutting itself down for safety. When you disconnect it it resets which is why you start hearing the clicking because you have power again. Some lithium batteries have reset buttons and some need to be physically disconnected for reset.
Look on the top of your EHC for any lit fault lights that may help you isolate the issue.
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
I can't say for sure but from those pictures it looks like you don't have original wiring. Did you get a wire diagram with the bike when you got it? Figure out which wires provide the power and ground to the ignition module and follow them back to the source.
Wow they sure got alot squeezed into that little area. Makes my’04 look like there’s nothing in there. 
Jwooky
Well-Known Member
I’m sure you know well, all experts don’t always agree. Also, just because you are a good mechanic, doesn’t necessarily make you a battery expert.
As you say, we all have our own choices, I think Lithiums have got a bad rep, due to some of the early versions, and folks are fearful of them unnecessarily.
IMO, with a lot of research and experience, they are very safe and very effective.
