Hey all!
- Thread starter bigkelk9
- Start date
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
And when you did the lifter adjustments you did make sure you moved the motor and then let the oil drain down (ie wait for a bit) Some one else will have to speak more on this as I haven't done it yet personally but I remember the first write I saw mentioned waiting after rotating the endine to let the oil bleed out of the lifter before adjusting it. (Never worked on a diesel so I don't know if that applies there as well.)
Just spit balling for you from several hundred miles away.
bigkelk9
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I did my four turns for the lifters I have, waited about 25 minutes, by then you could spin them with your fingers, tightened them two more turns and then went to the next two, and yes, put it in 6th gear and got the cylinder to TDC, I.e. lifters at lowest point.
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
Ok, I just read the S&S lifter install doc and the 4 turns or 32 flats is what is mentioned but where does the 2 more turns come from -- I don't see that in the instructions. That sounds like an awful lot after adjusting to move. Going to see if I can find the notes on here that I have seen.
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
also see https://assetcloud.roccommerce.net/files/_sscycle/10/5/9/106-6046-adjustable-pushrods.pdf
Which pushrods do you have? 2 turns might not have been enough -- one of the 2 docs references 4 turns to compress lifter (hydrallic) I believe -- I skimmed so read in detail for yourself, but I think we need a little more info if you have it about which lifters and which pushrods you are using.
Or at least I do!
bigkelk9
Well-Known Member
So yeah I just spoke with S&S, and I guess I did it all wrong. So I’m going back to the drawing board and gonna do it all over again..
mleach72
Well-Known Member
S&S recommends 4 turns, but a lot of guys say they get a ticking sound at 4 turns due to the lifter bottoming out. Most go with 3 turns. 3 turns plus a flat gets you pretty close to dead center in the lifter travel. Even at 4 turns, the motor should fire if it was done correctly. You just might get some ticking from the lifters.
bigkelk9
Well-Known Member
Well
I did it all wrong, waited my 20-30 minutes, four turns and then I may have misunderstood but did an additional 2 turns after I could turn em with my fingers and S&S states about a full turn off after you can turn em with your fingers…
mleach72
Well-Known Member
Ok, now I get it. The 1 turn off gets you back to 3 turns. That will work.Well
I did it all wrong, waited my 20-30 minutes, four turns and then I may have misunderstood but did an additional 2 turns after I could turn em with my fingers and S&S states about a full turn off after you can turn em with your fingers…
bigkelk9
Well-Known Member
All of my confusion is what lifters I have because I remember the new lifters were a different adjustment when I put them in like 7-8 years ago
mleach72
Well-Known Member
Yeah, there are lifters that have travel limiters. If that’s what you have, they have a different adjustment procedure. I don't remember what it is. You would have to look it up.
mleach72
Well-Known Member
Here it is. I thought I had a file saved on this. As I said before, S&S recommends 4 turns for standard lifters. A lot of guys get a ticking sound at 4 turns and go back to 3. I always use 3 plus a flat. That gets you dead center in the travel. It also tells you how to find out if you have lifters with travel limiters and the adjustment procedure.
john sachs
Well-Known Member
Check the threads per inch on the pushrods. That will determine how many turns you need for proper valve adjustment. Generally S&S adjustable push rods are set 31/2 to 4 turns, for NON - TRAVEL LIMITER equipped lifters. If using TRAVEL LIMITERS, bottom lifter, and loosen the push rod 3/4 to 1 turn.
A word of CAUTION: If you never have adjusted adjustable pushrods, you would do yourself a MAJOR favor by having someone with the experience helping you. The damage that can be done, can carry over to many other engine parts.
bigkelk9
Well-Known Member
Okay, so here’s where I’m at, I have done this about 5-6 times but it’s been about 6 years or so since I did it last, and at first I had factory lifters and from what I remember the big difference is it went from three turns to four turns.. I upgraded them with whatever Mark recommended and that’s all I remember of the change. I am trying right now to re-adjust them. So I’ll let all know how it goes, but I don’t think that is stopping this bike from firing up… so we shall see…Check the threads per inch on the pushrods. That will determine how many turns you need for proper valve adjustment. Generally S&S adjustable push rods are set 31/2 to 4 turns, for NON - TRAVEL LIMITER equipped lifters. If using TRAVEL LIMITERS, bottom lifter, and loosen the push rod 3/4 to 1 turn.
A word of CAUTION: If you never have adjusted adjustable pushrods, you would do yourself a MAJOR favor by having someone with the experience helping you. The damage that can be done, can carry over to many other engine parts.
bigkelk9
Well-Known Member
So a little history real quick, ran into a S&S guy at the lone star rally years ago, they had a tent set up. Spoke with him briefly about my bike and the jest of the convo was if I really wanted the bike to be the best it could be, get rid of all the epa bs and take it back to as if it was a crate engine. Talked with S&S later down the road and they gave me all the specs which I gave to the idiot mark recommended in BFE, he spun dropped my heads and then had me clay mic them when I got them back to determine what size cometic gasket to go with because S&S gaskets would no longer work on it. Hate these spin dropped heads btw!! Changed the cam to a 600 which is what they come with if you buy a crate 117. Found out torque specs change from factory to some stupid Harley specs with those gaskets and this set up. My jugs were oblong and had to be bored, so he did that and sent me some Carillo pistons to go with it. I had four sets of rings and was boggled, called Carillo and they informed me that the one in question was not to be used on my application. Rode the bike for years like this with no issues. Did a burn out like an idiot one night, started smoking and the next day had a small oil puddle coming from my exhaust. Here it is almost four years later and I’m finally fixing it and come to find out that ring that I never used was supposed to go on the bottom of the oil rings with the pinhole centered where it’s exposed… so I have done all the work on this bike myself including the wiring to rid of the Ehc bullshit and never been so stumped, especially on simple adjustments that I used to know off the top of my head. Changed the lifters to whatever it was mark recommended .. So as I understand it now from S&S, four turns with the quickie push rods, wait my 20-30 minutes and go back and loosen up about 1 turn and then to the next set. Of coarse TDCCheck the threads per inch on the pushrods. That will determine how many turns you need for proper valve adjustment. Generally S&S adjustable push rods are set 31/2 to 4 turns, for NON - TRAVEL LIMITER equipped lifters. If using TRAVEL LIMITERS, bottom lifter, and loosen the push rod 3/4 to 1 turn.
A word of CAUTION: If you never have adjusted adjustable pushrods, you would do yourself a MAJOR favor by having someone with the experience helping you. The damage that can be done, can carry over to many other engine parts.
john sachs
Well-Known Member
Sorry, It sounds like you have a Chinese puzzle.
bigkelk9
Well-Known Member
So update, re-adjusted push rods, went to go fire it and the starter isn’t making full contact and just grinding… so pist, this idiot that Rick warned me about just replaced it not too long ago and it hasn’t even been used aside from a few times the other day when I was trying to fire her up for the first time… so now I gotta buy yet another starter… the starter I got from Donna and Derrick lasted for years, it was the updated better starter… but it finally gave too… so now back to them for another
