What do you think?

wolfen

Member
I posted last week that I had a popping , backfire problem. Got some great feedback on what to check. I checked all that out and the bike is running great. Starts right up and runs real good until you go to whack the throttle. Then it stumbles and won`t run . Lose of power , think it is probably a fuel delivery problem. What do you think? Should I check the fuel filter that I installed. Or check the jets to make sure they aren`t clogging up. The main jet I would think? I just changed the plugs out and it and seamed to be running a little rich. Especially the front cylinder. I usually run under 3000 rpms. Maybe I should try a smaller pilot jet? Just wanted to get any feed back before I started tearing into it. Just in case I`m missing anything. Thanks
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
1- Take out the petcock and make sure the screen is clean.
2- make sure your filter is clean and not collapsed.
3- Adjust the carb paying attention to the air/fuel mixture and the pump. S&S turns the pump screw all the way on so back it off little by little, hit the gas and see when it stops hesitating.

S&S Carb Tuning Tips

Idle Circuit
1. Start engine and run until slightly warm (about 1 to 2 minutes).
2. Turn RPM adjusting screw to obtain an idle speed of approx. 1000 RPM.
3. Turn Idle mixture screw clockwise, slowly leaning mixture until engine starts to die. Next, turn screw counterclockwise, slowly richening mixture, until engine RPM start to fall off, counting the number of turns as you do so. Mixture adjustment is correct when screw is positioned about halfway between these points which should be approx. 1/4 to ½ turn out from lean side of adjustment range.
Note:
Turning screw out (counterclockwise) makes idle mixture richer. Turning screw in (clockwise) makes mixture leaner. Normally correctly adjusted screw will be between 1 1/4 – 1 ½ turns out from bottom if intermediate jet size is correct.

4. After initial idle mixture adjustment is set, reset engine idle to approximately 1000 RPM. A lower idle speed can cause hard starting; poor throttle response erratic idle and unnecessary engine wear.
5. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, repeat steps 3 & 4.

Idle Circuit Notes:
•If idle adjustments are made before engine is fully warmed, idle mixture will be rich when engine reaches operating temperature.
•Whenever intermediate jet change is made, idle mixture screw must be readjusted.
•If idle mixture screw is more than 1 3/4 out after idle mixture is correctly adjusted, it is a fairly good indication that the intermediate jet may be too small and should be changed to the next larger size. Conversely, if the idle mixture screw is less than 1 1/4 turns out the intermediate jet may need to be changed to the next smaller size.
•If idle mixture screw is turned completely in engine should not run at idle. If engine continues to run at idle with idle mixture screw seated, recheck initial setting of idle speed screw, and make sure enrichment plunger is seated. If engine still runs at idle with idle mixture screw all the in, contact S&S Tech support.

Accelerator Pump:
The function of the accelerator pump is to improve throttle response when rapidly opening the throttle at low rpm and to aid in cold starts. S&S sets the accelerator pump adjusting screw for maximum volume (all the way out) to aid during initial start-up after installation. Turning the screw inward (clockwise) decreases delivered pump volume. Turning it outward (counter clockwise) increases pump volume.

Adjusting the Accelerator Pump:
1. Warm engine to operating temperature.
2. Turn pump travel adjusting screw inward until screw contacts pump actuator arm. This shuts off the pump. Caution – closing adjusting screw with excessive force can cause irreversible damage to screw threads in carb body.
3. With engine warm and at idle, blip throttle and note throttle response.
4. Turn pump travel screw outward or counter clockwise about 1/4 turn at a time and recheck throttle response until engine no longer hesitates. This is usually about two turns out.
5. Minimum pump travel is recommended to conserve fuel, prevent spark plug fouling, and curtail black smoke from pipes when blipping throttle. Black smoke is usually an indication of a rich condition or excessive accelerator pump travel.

Some Performance Notes:

•To be sure idle mixture adjustment is correct; always check with fully hot engine.
•If popping or backfiring through air cleaner occurs upon taking off, this indicates a lean condition requiring that a larger intermediate jet be installed (one size larger) (size is stamped on bottom of jet).
•When fine tuning the intermediate circuit, it is best to turn off the accelerator pump completely. It can mask jetting symptoms.
•Whenever the intermediate jet is changed, the idle mixture should be readjusted.
•If engine backfires or sputters in carburetor or breaks up and or dies during acceleration, increase or richen main jet size.
•If engine runs flat and sluggish or blubbers, or will not take throttle, decrease main jet size.
•Always use an insulator block between carb and manifold. If not the heat transfer from the manifold to the carb may cause a temporary rich condition at idle and low speed rpm.
 

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
... the bike is running great. Starts right up and runs real good until you go to whack the throttle. Then it stumbles and won`t run . Lose of power ...
Adjusting the Accelerator Pump:
1. Warm engine to operating temperature.
2. Turn pump travel adjusting screw inward until screw contacts pump actuator arm. This shuts off the pump. Caution – closing adjusting screw with excessive force can cause irreversible damage to screw threads in carb body.
3. With engine warm and at idle, blip throttle and note throttle response.
4. Turn pump travel screw outward or counter clockwise about 1/4 turn at a time and recheck throttle response until engine no longer hesitates. This is usually about two turns out.
5. Minimum pump travel is recommended to conserve fuel, prevent spark plug fouling, and curtail black smoke from pipes when blipping throttle. Black smoke is usually an indication of a rich condition or excessive accelerator pump travel.
:hi:

Dennis
 

wolfen

Member
I checked out the pet cock & fuel filter. All was clear. I removed the plugs and they looked like it was running a little rich. So I pulled the bowl on the carb and checked the jets. Everything checked out. I have a 33/78 set up. I ordered a 32,31,29.5 pilot and a 76, 74 main jet I`ll full around with that and see how it does. Thanks for the help guys.
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
When you "whack the thtottle" The Accelerator Pump pumps gas into the carb. Too little or too much will make it hesitate. With black plugs I would suspect too much is being pumped in. You need to adjust this screw and it's listed above. It has nothing to do with your jets.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
the bike is running great. Starts right up and runs real good until you go to whack the throttle. Then it stumbles and won`t run...
Are we sure we are not taking a huge gulp of air, but rather roll on the throttle? Are we in wrist snapping action? Why? Air enters faster. Liquid is heavier than air. So if you opened in proportion to what the bike wants, then we might not need to jet it even more. Because right now you are saying the bike runs rich now and all you have right now is a wrist that needs to slow down and roll with the crank. You want to be ahead of it but not run away from it. Try that. That lag may never be removed because... it is WOT it is.

Think Linear.
Think Proportion.

If you want to wrap the throttle with a whack, what is the air cleaner setup? Close that off so it acts like a choke and the proportion will be closer on the whack opening. Right now, take it for a ride and wind it up slow. There is how you find your jetting. Fuel injection does not have a lag. This is still a carb bike.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
When you "whack the throttle" The Accelerator Pump pumps gas into the carb. Too little or too much will make it hesitate.
Where is the pop? Low rpm pop out the carb is lean. The accel will not make it lean on the bottom. Back to the OP and where is the pop, low or high?

Is that pop out the pipe on WOT or is that pop on lift?
Is that pop out the carb on the low rpm or pops out the carb at higher rpm?
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
Where is the pop? Low rpm pop out the carb is lean. The accel will not make it lean on the bottom. Back to the OP and where is the pop, low or high?

Is that pop out the pipe on WOT or is that pop on lift?
Is that pop out the carb on the low rpm or pops out the carb at higher rpm?
"where is the pop" I guess in the fridge buddy...:lol:

He said " it stumbles" that to me means not getting enough or too much gas. You could be right about the air/fuel mix but he can check both with the above instructions.

I think between us both we should open a chop shop but we are just "old fucks" and the kids won't believe in us. :lol:

Edit: He did say Pop in the beginning so does it Pop or stumble because if it Pops AND stumbles he may need a priest, bible and a chicken...
 
Last edited:

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
I checked out the pet cock & fuel filter. All was clear. I removed the plugs and they looked like it was running a little rich. So I pulled the bowl on the carb and checked the jets. Everything checked out. I have a 33/78 set up. I ordered a 32,31,29.5 pilot and a 76, 74 main jet I`ll full around with that and see how it does. Thanks for the help guys.
Wolf, on my 05 with the XXX carb mods (meaning it was made a little larger) I ran a 29.5 and a 72 or 74 main jet.

What mods have you done to it lately to all of a sudden start having problems.
 

wolfen

Member
I blew the motor up 2 years ago. I eat the exhaust valve and destroyed the front cylinder. The motor was able to be saved. Joey Sternotti rebuilt the motor. Put in the larger valves ,increased the compression , new springs , did the head work. Trued the crank , which by the way doesn`t vibrate my feet off the front peddle anymore. I`m running a 626 cam. That's about all the improvements that were done. I ordered the new jets. I`m going to try a smaller pilot first than go from there.
 
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