Voltage
- Thread starter Mandown1
- Start date
These bikes are very fussy. Battery should be 12.6v and fully charged. Also even if it reads 12 volts it could have a bad cell. I would put it on charge overnight. If you still have the same effect get it load tested.
You could almost say that BDM plays best in a world of perfection.
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Key info on the the battery is to have approx 12.8 vdc after fully charged and no lower than 13.8 or above 14.8 while running (charging) . The noise you are hearing is probably the Compression releases clicking. It doesn't take much power to trigger them. The starter solenoid and starter are what needs the punch. The 12.3 vdc you have may be enough to make the solenoid activate but definitely not enough to crank the engine.
When the start button is selected the CR's are triggered for one second along with the starter solenoid getting voltage to operate the starter. This helps reduce the load on the starter for easier starting.
If your looking for a new battery the DEKA EXT20L is a popular choice. Mixed reviews on Lithium batteries as they seem to cause issues with the EHC smoking.
If your bike doesn't have a Circuit breaker or fuse between the battery and EHC it is good advice to put one in. Stock bikes did not come with one and it leaves the EHC exposed to a shorting battery.
That's my
and Welcome to BigdogbikerKey info on the the battery is to have approx 12.8 vdc after fully charged and no lower than 13.8 or above 14.8 while running (charging) . The noise you are hearing is probably the Compression releases clicking. It doesn't take much power to trigger them. The starter solenoid and starter are what needs the punch. The 12.3 vdc you have may be enough to make the solenoid activate but definitely not enough to crank the engine.
When the start button is selected the CR's are triggered for one second along with the starter solenoid getting voltage to operate the starter. This helps reduce the load on the starter for easier starting.
If your looking for a new battery the DEKA EXT20L is a popular choice. Mixed reviews on Lithium batteries as they seem to cause issues with the EHC smoking.
If your bike doesn't have a Circuit breaker or fuse between the battery and EHC it is good advice to put one in. Stock bikes did not come with one and it leaves the EHC exposed to a shorting battery.
That's my
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Thank you, do these backs have a momentary switch because I’m basically having to redo this harness
Goes something like this for most bikes. How I can check for a bad battery/stator/voltage regulator watching a voltmeter.
12.8v = Ideal static number off a charger. Phantom numbers being higher and dropping under key on.
12.8v = Key on and remains steady is 12.8v. Shows battery good so far.
11.1v = The PUSH needed loading the battery with the starter motor. Lower than 10v not so good is the reserve.
12.8v = Returns showing it has reserve of the PUSH (means volts) show a good battery.
12.8v = Remains steady while engine is running. Show no stator output being bad.
15v+ = Voltage regulator being bad.
12.8v = Ideal static number off a charger. Phantom numbers being higher and dropping under key on.
12.8v = Key on and remains steady is 12.8v. Shows battery good so far.
11.1v = The PUSH needed loading the battery with the starter motor. Lower than 10v not so good is the reserve.
12.8v = Returns showing it has reserve of the PUSH (means volts) show a good battery.
12.8v = Remains steady while engine is running. Show no stator output being bad.
15v+ = Voltage regulator being bad.