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- Thread starter Srodden
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francoblay1
The Spaniard
WTF???? explain those shavings!
francoblay1
The Spaniard
francoblay1
The Spaniard
Chain case? do you mean in the Primary? if that's the case, its got noting to do with running lean or rich...
More info, please.
Srodden
Well-Known Member
I changed all oils and plugs it's a 2011 mastiff only the second chain case oil change maybe 4000 miles on bike probably from just being broke in.
spark plugs are showing too lean.
Plugs are perfect:
1. No carbon build on the porcelain to foul the plug.
2. No oil up the threads to point out a ring or guide sealing problem.
3. No gray dots peppered on the porcelain to show a too lean a problem.
4. No owner complaining about a poor running bike or its performance (right?).
Magnet debris:
a. Possible break in of high spots at the gear mesh.
b. Possible sheer of elongated gear tooth, meaning, not round ball looking, not roller bearing looking, but long across looking like a gear tooth length.
c. Possible monitoring of system, meaning, within 1,000 miles I dump the oil or pull the plug, finger closes the hole, look at the magnet and its captured debris. Less debris, more looking like break in of high spots being sheered off, worn in, mesh for mesh = finally broken-in>>> the less you see.
d. Possible failure in the works we see more sheer caught by the magnet.
Edit: Where I would over pour for the mag check. What is lost between the pull out, finger stop, and reinstalling the plug, I do not need to top off the oil knowing a pull is going to lose some amount of oil loss at the ambidextrous.
1. No carbon build on the porcelain to foul the plug.
2. No oil up the threads to point out a ring or guide sealing problem.
3. No gray dots peppered on the porcelain to show a too lean a problem.
4. No owner complaining about a poor running bike or its performance (right?).
Magnet debris:
a. Possible break in of high spots at the gear mesh.
b. Possible sheer of elongated gear tooth, meaning, not round ball looking, not roller bearing looking, but long across looking like a gear tooth length.
c. Possible monitoring of system, meaning, within 1,000 miles I dump the oil or pull the plug, finger closes the hole, look at the magnet and its captured debris. Less debris, more looking like break in of high spots being sheered off, worn in, mesh for mesh = finally broken-in>>> the less you see.
d. Possible failure in the works we see more sheer caught by the magnet.
Edit: Where I would over pour for the mag check. What is lost between the pull out, finger stop, and reinstalling the plug, I do not need to top off the oil knowing a pull is going to lose some amount of oil loss at the ambidextrous.
Last edited:
Srodden
Well-Known Member
Sven I finally understood every word you said including how quickly my finger works to plug the hole for a 1000 mile check up.
Thanks for the advice I will do just that and you're correct I'm having zero issues with the bike it was just routine maintenance.
I have already had chain case cover off last year and seen nothing unusual but with these shavings I seen on magnet I will check at 1000 miles thanks !
Thanks for the advice I will do just that and you're correct I'm having zero issues with the bike it was just routine maintenance.
I have already had chain case cover off last year and seen nothing unusual but with these shavings I seen on magnet I will check at 1000 miles thanks !
Srodden
Well-Known Member
It's a 2011 mastiff carbureted
BWG56
Guru
Srodden
Well-Known Member
Ya I see how they look like gear shavings thanks. I ll check the magnet no later than a 1000 miles.
I'm going to agree sorta, kinda, in your camp, not knowing the product is my fault. So dump wise, 2nd oil change out of the primary and those were not there at the 1st dump... I assume. So is it break-in? One is a 'stress crack' in process. I'm going to keep assuming the next is 'sheer off.' So if Scott concurs, clean sorta magnets with little debris was the stress before the 1st dump. The 2nd dump is sheer exposed. Sound plausible after so many startups?
Anally in total agreement. How many sheers has taken out the stator/rotor; if the sheer is magnetically stuck to said area? How to tackle it is a long feeler gauge rather than a teardown? That's my approach at the debris. They are magnetically charged so drag them out, right?
Ah, someone else who can read a plug.
So, red oring plug is tranny, black oring plug is the primary chain case. Both have gear sheer. How about this?
a. BWG shows the only place that material would be leaving is mostly at the starter's ring gear.
b. Your oil came out clean so this says a sheer did not lodge into a bearing, skid, do other things to turn the oil into micro bits of metal flakes, it turns the oil silver and opaque meaning.
c. Between Frank pointing out the rotor capture, the plug's capture, the bike is quiet sounding so nothing seems to be deteriorating to make a bearing fail, or say that may equal a rumbling sound, like something went out of tolerance.
Nothing to lose:
d. What are the odds you play with a simple gear to gear meshing kind of line-up? No matter my assembly, be it brake calipers or starter motors, I loosen the bolts enough where the caliper/stater finds its own lineup, I apply force like the pads on the disc, to the starter's throw in and pulls back out in a plain, not cocked and hanging, I just go tighten shit up any old way.