Trying to work up the nerve to pull gas tank

Tubolove

Member
‘02 BDM BullDog.

So I’ve tracked my speedo issue down to a break in continuity somewhere underneath the gas tank.
Looks simple to pull but I’m terrified to do it. Afraid the tank will drop or something when I remove the bolts and will scratch the frame of the tank itself.

Is it as simple as removing the main fuel line and two bolts on the front of the tank and two bolts on the back of the tank and removing the crossover hose? Will the tank drop when I remove the bolts?
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
‘02 BDM BullDog.

So I’ve tracked my speedo issue down to a break in continuity somewhere underneath the gas tank.
Looks simple to pull but I’m terrified to do it. Afraid the tank will drop or something when I remove the bolts and will scratch the frame of the tank itself.

Is it as simple as removing the main fuel line and two bolts on the front of the tank and two bolts on the back of the tank and removing the crossover hose? Will the tank drop when I remove the bolts?
Have you downloaded the manual for the bike -- it is explained reasonably well in the service manual.

courtesy of bdm7250 post Manuals https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4342373flodnbhj/AACDvhA93EOHPPKCs2gYPQDPa?dl=0anualsan

Have several cloths around to protect the paint of tank and anything else your likely to bump into.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
With a rolled old [clean] cotton towel the front of the tank has an air gap, go look. So between the backbone of the frame, the U [think of the U being right side up is the horseshoe to drop down on the backbone, shove that towel up front between tank and backbone. When the bolt is pulled, the tank drops. The towel saved the ding on the paint.

I assume the rear sits on a rubber mount, or this too has tabs down past the tank? Remember, I am speaking in the generic. So you then slip another towel under this U if applies.

A run to hodep or a hardware store for clear tubing? More like refridge water line size. This way you can move down more tight spots in the tank entry, the U of the under-tank area, and drain that gas out,, or if the petcock is not vacuum assist, remove all the gas that way. Now remove the crossover hose. This is a twist first at the nipple end, then pull. Now bend the crossover hose and check for cracks. If it's original, then off to a boat store and buy marine grade fuel line and change it out... period

That says, crossover hose is off both ends, so there is more clearance than bending the hose on the one end to clear things. Cut a diagonal across the nipple hose so you can get the full length off this way, not cut at the nipple end and leave that little left behind. Like I said, if it's original, don't twist, just weaken the tube and not cut into the nipple hose and nick the paint.

With tank empty, hoses off, place the one hand under the front of the U of the tank. Hold the back of the tank with the other. Make sure you have a pre-holding place where nothing falls on it, no one kicks it walking thru, and cover with a clean towel, box over it, caution sign, and all anal moves need apply.

The hand up front takes the hit of the cocking up of the rear first. This saves the edge of the tank hitting the steering parts near the tank. Front wheel is aimed forward and held steady. That handlebar swings on the dent... get it?

If say the front is easier to move first, so be it. But it comes straight up, watch the ends of the tank when moving it off. Fold and tape more towels over the steering so any bang is not going to patina the parts on both ends.

And if you have heart palpitations, walk away from it and come back tomorrow to it. That sort of works for me if I get frustrated with a problem.

Same goes for installing. It has to line up, so it just drops down. Now is the time to inspect any wiring for rubs the tank hid. With some spit, finger some and hit it into the hole of the marine grade. This eases the hose on, rather that fight it dry. Slide the hose clamp up the line and then look at the spool memory. In other words, the bulk hose off the spool might have a curve? Spin the hose so it curves under the tank. Yeah, yeah, anal it straightens out anyway, but you now kink the curve and to each h/er own. Same goes for the original hose from pet to carb. Want to tackle that too? Only the cracks knows for sure.

That's about
 

Tubolove

Member
With a rolled old [clean] cotton towel the front of the tank has an air gap, go look. So between the backbone of the frame, the U [think of the U being right side up is the horseshoe to drop down on the backbone, shove that towel up front between tank and backbone. When the bolt is pulled, the tank drops. The towel saved the ding on the paint.

I assume the rear sits on a rubber mount, or this too has tabs down past the tank? Remember, I am speaking in the generic. So you then slip another towel under this U if applies.

A run to hodep or a hardware store for clear tubing? More like refridge water line size. This way you can move down more tight spots in the tank entry, the U of the under-tank area, and drain that gas out,, or if the petcock is not vacuum assist, remove all the gas that way. Now remove the crossover hose. This is a twist first at the nipple end, then pull. Now bend the crossover hose and check for cracks. If it's original, then off to a boat store and buy marine grade fuel line and change it out... period

That says, crossover hose is off both ends, so there is more clearance than bending the hose on the one end to clear things. Cut a diagonal across the nipple hose so you can get the full length off this way, not cut at the nipple end and leave that little left behind. Like I said, if it's original, don't twist, just weaken the tube and not cut into the nipple hose and nick the paint.

With tank empty, hoses off, place the one hand under the front of the U of the tank. Hold the back of the tank with the other. Make sure you have a pre-holding place where nothing falls on it, no one kicks it walking thru, and cover with a clean towel, box over it, caution sign, and all anal moves need apply.

The hand up front takes the hit of the cocking up of the rear first. This saves the edge of the tank hitting the steering parts near the tank. Front wheel is aimed forward and held steady. That handlebar swings on the dent... get it?

If say the front is easier to move first, so be it. But it comes straight up, watch the ends of the tank when moving it off. Fold and tape more towels over the steering so any bang is not going to patina the parts on both ends.

And if you have heart palpitations, walk away from it and come back tomorrow to it. That sort of works for me if I get frustrated with a problem.

Same goes for installing. It has to line up, so it just drops down. Now is the time to inspect any wiring for rubs the tank hid. With some spit, finger some and hit it into the hole of the marine grade. This eases the hose on, rather that fight it dry. Slide the hose clamp up the line and then look at the spool memory. In other words, the bulk hose off the spool might have a curve? Spin the hose so it curves under the tank. Yeah, yeah, anal it straightens out anyway, but you now kink the curve and to each h/er own. Same goes for the original hose from pet to carb. Want to tackle that too? Only the cracks knows for sure.

That's about
Thanks for the detailed post!! Great idea shoving some cloths into the airgap to keep from dropping. I think I’ll try and tackle this on Wednesday or Thursday.
 

Ernie12

Active Member
I had a 2002 BD Pro Sport and I bet they are bolted on the same way. Biggest thing in my opinion is to make sure the tank is empty when you cut the crossover hose in the front. I thought I had my tank pretty empty but it still had a lot of gas in it. I do remember that there is a piece of soft rubber like material that fits up in the tank that rests on the backbone so pay attention to that in case it falls out. Also while you have your tank off get something to look inside with to make sure your liner is not falling apart. I dont remember mine falling down on the backbone when I unbolted it because that piece of rubber made it a snug fit. Dont worry its easy.
 

George Woods

New Member
‘02 BDM BullDog.

So I’ve tracked my speedo issue down to a break in continuity somewhere underneath the gas tank.
Looks simple to pull but I’m terrified to do it. Afraid the tank will drop or something when I remove the bolts and will scratch the frame of the tank itself.

Is it as simple as removing the main fuel line and two bolts on the front of the tank and two bolts on the back of the tank and removing the crossover hose? Will the tank drop when I remove the bolts?
Be sure to drape a towel over the handlebars and triple tree!
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
ok, everybody is telling you how to take it off, but lets move ahead and make sure you have a clear path to walk to where you are going to sit it down and a nice clean and clear spot to place it once you have it in your hands. kinda hard to move shit with your hands full. good luck.
 
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