Steering Neck Issues

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Long story short, my basket case of a K9 continues to never the less impress me!

- I have had a high speed walking, not a wobble the front end literally walks. It only happens north of of 78-80 MPH and also there has to be some wind, I noticed its more prevelant with a strong head wind or if I am passing a tractor trailer on the freeway and catch that wind coming off the trailer. Literally the front end would walk the handle bars are dead still but there was evidently slop in the bottom tree or Forks.

The Issue came to light on my trip out with Blacktopper and Skog. On this trip we were doing 80MPH+ most of the time because well if your trying to cover ground the interstate is 80MPH down here in the SouthWest otherwise you wont get to where you need to be anytime soon. I actually thought it was my wheel bearings but those are easy to check and I did so on the trip and knew it was not a bearing issue. Coming out of El Paso I about shit my britches as it was pretty bad and on the next stop Blacktopper even made a comment that he has never seen a front end move like that, he was behind me so probably had a better view point. I learned that I just had to let off the gas to allow the weight back on the front end to straighten it out. I know what a wobble is and this is not it as you can gas out of a wobble from a cupped tire, etc. We tried to just tighten my neck at the hotel that evening but couldnt get the nut to budge so I just said I'll keep riding it as I kinda got the hang of it and obviously it was so damn tight it wasn't going anywhere.

I finally got around to looking at it, it only did it once or twice on my ride up to KS and back but we rarely did 80mph there and back anyways.

With almost 20k on the bike figured it was time to tear down and replace the neck bearings and races anyways. Bought the race removal tool and the race press (worth every penny) makes this job a breeze.

Well here is what I found. I needed a breaker bar to loosen the stem nut on the bottom and I assume the previous owner had issues but the shop he used just tightened the hell out of the neck to try and correct it.

I assumed the first race was installed incorrectly but unfortunately not.

Now these are the non removable neck cups, so I cant just press out the cup and press in a new one. My 2004 has removable cups and appears late 2007 K9 - 08 they went back to removable. I was the lucky winner of the non removable neck cups...go figure.

Gave Shannon a call as this is in his wheel house, his first assumption like mine was it can't be seated all the way. Well I thought it was and that tolerance is quite wide with these types of bearings but went ahead and made all the measurements .061"-.062" depth all around, so well within normal acceptable tolerances. So I knew for sure it was seating correctly.


Next up was measuring the diameter of the neck cup in the frame itself, Shannon assumption here is when they welded the neck they shrunk the neck cup. He said "I bet the back side of the frame you need to take a material off". Well I went and measured it...looks to be 1.956" from about 1-8 and 1.972" at 3 - 9. See below diagram, Now I need to take a little material off the back side roughly .010"-.012" of material of the back side. The Race is 1.980" and considering I don't have any play in the bearing with the 1.972" measurement from 3-9 I will suspect that I need somewhere around that on the backside for the race to fit correctly.



 
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Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
For easy reference the bearings are L44643 and races are L44610. Specify Timken and Curtis sells them as well.

Realistically you should never have to replace these bearings as they are actually wheel bearings for trailers and In the neck never see a full 360 rotation or much at all. These bearings should last a lifetime with proper maintenance grease intervals but if you have it apart might as well change them for $20. The bearings I took out are perfectly fine.

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Forsaken

Active Member
For easy reference the bearings are L44643 and races are L44610. Specify Timken and Curtis sells them as well.

Realistically you should never have to replace these bearings as they are actually wheel bearings for trailers and In the neck never see a full 360 rotation or much at all. These bearings should last a lifetime with proper maintenance grease intervals but if you have it apart might as well change them for $20. The bearings I took out are perfectly fine.

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Thanks...big time!!!
 

bigkelk9

Well-Known Member
So after verifying when we were talking earlier, my 07 k9 was made in December of 06' and the vin number is 0574. So if that helps n e. Mine has the removable cups as we spoke about earlier,.. I could have my information backwards on time, but I do know that daytek made the majority of the frames after all the recalls the bdm frames had on the k9..
 

BWG56

Guru
Then they get hammered constantly on the same spot. Makes one wonder about that especially with the rake on these bikes.
.
Not really a good application for tapered roller bearings, caged ball bearings would have been a better choice for this application.
Water under the bridge, so we just have to change them more frequently.

 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Then they get hammered constantly on the same spot. Makes one wonder about that especially with the rake on these bikes.

View attachment 46880

For once I guess I got lucky.
Haha nice Paul...okay yours is #369 so time between my #31 and your #369 they went back to the removable cups.

I just finished will post a video shortly and small write up.

I've been a forum member for 8 years and I don't remember ever hearing about any neck fitment issues. So hopefully I'm just the lucky one. It would have sure been a lot easier to just replace a cup!

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Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Not really a good application for tapered roller bearings, caged ball bearings would have been a better choice for this application.
Water under the bridge, so we just have to change them more frequently.

I'm not an engineer but I would have thought the tapered would be the better choice because the taper is able to redistribute the load. Considering the majority of the load is at the 6 o'clock postion or right of the downtube.

I would think a caged bearing needs requires more linear force and tbe load distribution needs to be more flat.

These bearings are rated for about 8000 ft/lbs of force. It's really not the bearing that is the issue.

With that SAID I am very surprised that the race was so easily egg-shaped with just that 0.012" off round. Which I believe a pressed in neck cup is superior here as you don't have to worry about it getting out of round when welding or otherwise and can much more simply replace

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BWG56

Guru
I'm not an engineer but I would have thought the tapered would be the better choice because the taper is able to redistribute the load. Considering the majority of the load is at the 6 o'clock postion or right of the downtube.

I would think a caged bearing needs requires more linear force and tbe load distribution needs to be more flat.

These bearings are rated for about 8000 ft/lbs of force. It's really not the bearing that is the issue.

With that SAID I am very surprised that the race was so easily egg-shaped with just that 0.012" off round. Which I believe a pressed in neck cup is superior here as you don't have to worry about it getting out of round when welding or otherwise and can much more simply replace

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These bearings in the neck are not rotating, but getting hammered in the same spot going down the road as PK stated, they are not rotating like a wheel bearing is intended to do.
The caged would distribute the blunt force over a much larger surface area.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Here is a video of the finished product.

This wasn't fun took me about 2.5 hrs as I didn't want to take too much off so I just kept taking a little bit off and measuring it and reinstalling the race. I probably removed and re-installed the race 10-12x, with the right tools its not a big deal takes a couple seconds.

I took off most of the high spots and got to the point where I have just a bit of play left but the race is continually to become easier and easier to press in so I'm trying to ear on the side of caution and considering the play is probably reduced by +90% I think I will be in better shape. At the end of the day if I still am experiencing issues I can tear it down again and try again. I would rather do that then figure out how to cut the cup off the neck or end up having to tack weld the race in place (which I thought about).



The Tools you need to do the Job is you really must have this race removal tool. Makes the job a breeze. http://www.wildsteedworx.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=106_206&products_id=1024
the driver for the tool is just a handle with a 1/2" end. I purchased used off of eBay for about $10-12 as the driver was more than the tool new. The one I ordered was a Kent-Moore tool J-36190.

I also bought a steering neck race press for about $32 on ebay. Which really makes pressing in the race easy as pie, although you could use the tool above and drive it in with a Hammer I suppose similar to how it's removed. Personally I just rather have the right tool for the job then fight with it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pit-Posse-S...m2a62e74888:m:mVWgkr1AXdGKXB0ElzzEhiw&vxp=mtr
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Thanks for the lesson. I bet that's the same problem I'm having. Funny as it happens at any speed above 80. Heck, it starts to get real scary at 100+, but won't get into that one.
Well I don't think anyone with the removable neck cups would have this issue as its just really not possible unless the cup itself was cracked or the race. Which we actually have seen on this forum before. As they are installed after the frame is welded and powder coated. Paul posted a good picture of what they look like pretty easy to spot it.

Those removable steering cups are used on all kinds of bikes Harley's included.












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njbiker20088

Active Member
Here is a video of the finished product.

This wasn't fun took me about 2.5 hrs as I didn't want to take too much off so I just kept taking a little bit off and measuring it and reinstalling the race. I probably removed and re-installed the race 10-12x, with the right tools its not a big deal takes a couple seconds.

I took off most of the high spots and got to the point where I have just a bit of play left but the race is continually to become easier and easier to press in so I'm trying to ear on the side of caution and considering the play is probably reduced by +90% I think I will be in better shape. At the end of the day if I still am experiencing issues I can tear it down again and try again. I would rather do that then figure out how to cut the cup off the neck or end up having to tack weld the race in place (which I thought about).



The Tools you need to do the Job is you really must have this race removal tool. Makes the job a breeze. http://www.wildsteedworx.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=106_206&products_id=1024
the driver for the tool is just a handle with a 1/2" end. I purchased used off of eBay for about $10-12 as the driver was more than the tool new. The one I ordered was a Kent-Moore tool J-36190.

I also bought a steering neck race press for about $32 on ebay. Which really makes pressing in the race easy as pie, although you could use the tool above and drive it in with a Hammer I suppose similar to how it's removed. Personally I just rather have the right tool for the job then fight with it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pit-Posse-S...m2a62e74888:m:mVWgkr1AXdGKXB0ElzzEhiw&vxp=mtr
:old2::old2::old2::old2::oldthumbsup:
 

Matheny 514

Active Member
Here is a video of the finished product.

This wasn't fun took me about 2.5 hrs as I didn't want to take too much off so I just kept taking a little bit off and measuring it and reinstalling the race. I probably removed and re-installed the race 10-12x, with the right tools its not a big deal takes a couple seconds.

I took off most of the high spots and got to the point where I have just a bit of play left but the race is continually to become easier and easier to press in so I'm trying to ear on the side of caution and considering the play is probably reduced by +90% I think I will be in better shape. At the end of the day if I still am experiencing issues I can tear it down again and try again. I would rather do that then figure out how to cut the cup off the neck or end up having to tack weld the race in place (which I thought about).



The Tools you need to do the Job is you really must have this race removal tool. Makes the job a breeze. http://www.wildsteedworx.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=106_206&products_id=1024
the driver for the tool is just a handle with a 1/2" end. I purchased used off of eBay for about $10-12 as the driver was more than the tool new. The one I ordered was a Kent-Moore tool J-36190.

I also bought a steering neck race press for about $32 on ebay. Which really makes pressing in the race easy as pie, although you could use the tool above and drive it in with a Hammer I suppose similar to how it's removed. Personally I just rather have the right tool for the job then fight with it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pit-Posse-S...m2a62e74888:m:mVWgkr1AXdGKXB0ElzzEhiw&vxp=mtr
Excellent write up Eric, thanks for the part numbers on those specific tools. :old2:
 

kickstart

Well-Known Member
Haha nice Paul...okay yours is #369 so time between my #31 and your #369 they went back to the removable cups.

I just finished will post a video shortly and small write up.

I've been a forum member for 8 years and I don't remember ever hearing about any neck fitment issues. So hopefully I'm just the lucky one. It would have sure been a lot easier to just replace a cup!

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FYI Mine is 313 and has the removable. Yours is the same as some of the old HD frames. I hope your problem is solved but if it's not you now know what to do. It's better to have a small area of clearance in the bore than a high spot. Any bearing that is rocking in the race is cause for concern, when your frame was machined the QA Dept. must have been on lunch.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
FYI Mine is 313 and has the removable. Yours is the same as some of the old HD frames. I hope your problem is solved but if it's not you now know what to do. It's better to have a small area of clearance in the bore than a high spot. Any bearing that is rocking in the race is cause for concern, when your frame was machined the QA Dept. must have been on lunch.
I believe the nonremovable neck cups like mine are BDM frames it appears somewhere during the production of 2007 they went back to Daytec. Kel just posted this info and the B in my VIN clearly means frame was made by BigDog. D isn't on this list but seems that later 2007 have the D meaning Daytec frame.



QA was off on the Monday my bike was built, I'm pretty sure.

Never the less to say I was shocked when I saw the play in the bearing and race is an understatement. Shocked it wasn't more noticeable but the neck being over tightened help compensate I guess.

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Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Looks like if the tree was over tightened it would have been hard to steer. On the BDM frames, I'm wondering if they were the same ones that were cracking just in front of the swing arm. Member Dingo had to have his repaired and it was an 06 K9 I think. Also member Brew had to have a frame repaired.
You know it wasn't overly hard to steer but it was noticeably tighter. Whenever I got on my ridgeback I always thought the steering was much looser, I actually considered tightening the ridgeback cause I quite liked the tighter steering haha. I went to do it once and the fallaway was spot on so I left it...but I actually prefer a little tighter.

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bigkelk9

Well-Known Member
Looks like if the tree was over tightened it would have been hard to steer. On the BDM frames, I'm wondering if they were the same ones that were cracking just in front of the swing arm. Member Dingo had to have his repaired and it was an 06 K9 I think. Also member Brew had to have a frame repaired.
Their recalls were neck issues and having to resign and add gussets.. they were cracking, both swing arm a and frames as to why they used daytek for the majority of these bikes.
 

kickstart

Well-Known Member
I believe the nonremovable neck cups like mine are BDM frames it appears somewhere during the production of 2007 they went back to Daytec. Kel just posted this info and the B in my VIN clearly means frame was made by BigDog. D isn't on this list but seems that later 2007 have the D meaning Daytec frame.



QA was off on the Monday my bike was built, I'm pretty sure.

Never the less to say I was shocked when I saw the play in the bearing and race is an understatement. Shocked it wasn't more noticeable but the neck being over tightened help compensate I guess.

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I just checked mine and it is a B. Good info.
 
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