Starting question

[dtmmil]

Might be stupid, but new to this style engine. Was watching videos while searching yeaterday, saw one about compression releases, first question 2000 107 have compression release? If so mine doesnt start feom the handlebar button but when i push it i hear clicking under the gas tank, thought it was something for the starter solenoid but is it the releases? Again, if so since i start it with the smack button should i be holding the regular starter button also? Or do they activate with the smack button? Thanks

 

[HMAN]

Put a finger in the center hole of ur rockerbox cover. If there is a rubber cap and you feel a click when push down, you have CR's. If there is no rubber cap and just an empty hole, you have no CR's. With the 2000's they used HD handlebar controls. You should be able to replace the switch or entire control @ a Harley dealer. Prolly best to use the handlebar switch instead of the slam button. IF you have CR's they will not activate with the slam button. You would need to manually compress the releases and then hit the slam button.

 

[dtmmil]

Put a finger in the center hole of ur rockerbox cover. If there is a rubber cap and you feel a click when push down, you have CR's. If there is no rubber cap and just an empty hole, you have no CR's. With the 2000's they used HD handlebar controls. You should be able to replace the switch or entire control @ a Harley dealer. Prolly best to use the handlebar switch instead of the slam button.

I have power from the button to the starter, but the starter doesnt rotate when the button is pushed, so for now im using the slam button till i figure it out. Had the starter completely apart last night and i dont see anything wrong.

 

[chubs]

Unhook the green wire from the solenoid, put a test light probe in the green female spade connector, and hook the test lite ground clip to a good ground. Push the start button on the handle bars and watch to see if the tester lights up. Also, remove the end cap from the solenoid and look inside. The spade connector that the green wire hooks to has a couple small bare wires going down into the body. Make sure that they are intact. I had one break and the start button wouldn't work, soldered the break back together and still works every time.

 

[dtmmil]

I have power to that wire when i push the button on the bars, i had the solenoid all apart last night too, i unsoldered those two bare wires and resoldered them. When i push the button on the bars i hear a click under the tank and thats it, but when i had the starter out and tested it with a battery charger the starter would kick out but not spin when testing to the spade.

 

[Rottweiler]

Might just need more juice to spin the starter. Battery charger may not have enough.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

I have power to that wire when i push the button on the bars, i had the solenoid all apart last night too, i unsoldered those two bare wires and resoldered them. When i push the button on the bars i hear a click under the tank and thats it, but when i had the starter out and tested it with a battery charger the starter would kick out but not spin when testing to the spade.

I can't follow what you are saying. With the green wire disconnected from the starter you should get 12+ volts when you hit the start button on the handle bars. If you get the voltage there the problem is with the starter. Could be the solenoid, the armature broken internal gears weak battery ETC. If you are hearing a click under the tank its more than likely the CRs are getting the voltage required to operate. The green wire only requires enough voltage to fire the solenoid. The starter itself is what really needs AMPS to crank which is why a healthy battery is a must.

 

[dtmmil]

I can't follow what you are saying. With the green wire disconnected from the starter you should get 12+ volts when you hit the start button on the handle bars. If you get the voltage there the problem is with the starter. Could be the solenoid, the armature broken internal gears weak battery ETC. If you are hearing a click under the tank its more than likely the CRs are getting the voltage required to operate. The green wire only requires enough voltage to fire the solenoid. The starter itself is what really needs AMPS to crank which is why a healthy battery is a must.

Yes, it starts with the slam button no problem but does nothing when i hit the bar button.

 

[dtmmil]

Might just need more juice to spin the starter. Battery charger may not have enough.

Charger activates the slam button no problem but not the spade connection. Thinking i need a starter.

 

[chubs]

Starting to sound like a new starter is in your future

 

[Mikeinjersey]

Yes, it starts with the slam button no problem but does nothing when i hit the bar button.

OK, If your starter cranks the bike when you physically push the slam button in your problem ls with the solenoid or the voltage to it. What was the voltage reading when you had the green wire disconnected from the starter? Put the pos side of the meter to the green spade connector and the meter ground wire to the battery ground. When you hit the start button you should get 12+ volts.
You said you hear the click from the CRs but do you get the voltage at the green wire? It is possible to get one without the other even though both functions are triggered at the same time.

 

[dtmmil]

OK, If your starter cranks the bike when you physically push the slam button in your problem ls with the solenoid or the voltage to it. What was the voltage reading when you had the green wire disconnected from the starter? Put the pos side of the meter to the green spade connector and the meter ground wire to the battery ground. When you hit the start button you should get 12+ volts.
You said you hear the click from the CRs but do you get the voltage at the green wire? It is possible to get one without the other even though both functions are triggered at the same time.

I get 12v to the red wire for the spade on the starter when i hit the button, i dont believe i have CRs, the clicking sounds like its coming from the ehc.

 

[dtmmil]

Ok so i just rechecked, i tested the battery volts, its just under 12v, the red wire coming from the bar button is putting out about 11.2v when i push it. If i run a jumper wire from the battery or the positive post on the starter to the spade it will crank over, but connecting the wire from the handle bar button even getting 11.2v does nothing when i connect it to the spade.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

Your battery should be 12.8 +. You need to give it a good charge or replace it if needed.
That being said you are making this more difficult than it needs to be. There are 3 connectors on the starter. Big Pos , Big Neg and a small solenoid wire. What reading did you get when the small wire was disconnected from the starter when you hit the start button? I'll wait give me that answer so I can figure out what to do next.

 

[dtmmil]

Battery is at 11.83 right now, small wire is putting out 11.18 when i hit the button. It wont light a test light though.

 

[Mickmorris]

Battery is junk. Get a new battery. What engine do you have exactly? S&S? T.P.? In 2000 buyers had the option of those two manufacturers. My 2000 has external CR’s. Share a picture of your bike. Both sides. So we can see what you are dealing with.

 

[dtmmil]

Battery is junk. Get a new battery. What engine do you have exactly? S&S? T.P.? In 2000 buyers had the option of those two manufacturers. My 2000 has external CR’s. Share a picture of your bike. Both sides. So we can see what you are dealing with.

I have a charger on it right now, ive been messing with the electrical quite a bit so it might just be drained. It fires right up with the slam button.
Its a 107 s&s.

 

[dtmmil]

Heres pics.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

Battery is at 11.83 right now, small wire is putting out 11.18 when i hit the button. It wont light a test light though.

From what you are saying it would seem that the start switch circuit is good. Your battery must be strong enough to pull in the solenoid with enough force to make the contacts hit each other. You said with a jumper from the battery ( which would be effectively bypassing the start button circuit) the solenoid operates to pull in the contact enough to complete the starter circuit and crank the starter. The current evidence seems to point to a weak / bad battery or a bind/ burnt contacts inside the solenoid.
(Wild Guess) Maybe the Slam button is adjusted too far away from the plunger contact and it's creating a bind.

 

[dtmmil]

Something doesnt seem right with the wire coming from the handlebar button. I have it connected now, hold my tester to it and hit the button, it doesnt register even 1v. And it wont light a test light either. Almost like a weak ground at the ehc or the red wire is bad somewhere.