Ordered Spectro 75W140 GL-5 - received GL-1 same thing??

JWScarab

Active Member
Decided to go to Baker and they recommended Sectro 75W40 Full Syn

Got the lube in the mail today. I ordered GL5 and received GL1

WTF? :bang: I just want to ride!

Is this the same stuff? I only want to do the best for this bike.

Thanks!! Joe
 
The GL rating is the level of severe duty the oil can take GL1 being the lowest.
Baker Recommends GL5 in their 6 speed so I think someone made a mistake.
 

JWScarab

Active Member
Thanks Kaptin!! Much appreciated!

Looks like I am sending this back to Spectro.

Things are coming along! I just put in a new Braille From Jegs. I live in Ohio so if I order before 11pm, its in my driveway at noon next day! And thats the standard delivery. I didn't believe it first time I ordered some stuff for the old Mustang. I guess the delivery trucks align perfectly.

I'm still eyeballing those luggage racks of yours.......I think its a must have cause I cant carry shit right now.

Anyway, got the battery in, all connections cleaned on both ends of cables. I'm going for a ride!

More maintenance another day......
 

JWScarab

Active Member
Curtis - wanted to say Thanks again!! You very well may have saved my on a tranny rebuild! I cant believe they would have done that. Sent the GL1

Put 43 miles on her today! No more cutting out and popping. I think the battery and connections and new battery fixed that!!

Thanks!!
 
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Lifwghts

BIG BASTARD
Primary Fluid

I bought some Redline Full SYN primary fluid..........I don't know if std primary or syn is in the bike now and want to change my primary oil.

Can I run the Redline Syn in my primary?
What if std primary fluid is in there now and can the two mix?

Thx all
 

JWScarab

Active Member
By all means wait for one of the experts to chime in, but what I decided from a lot searching and reading on here is the primary should not be synthetic or you may get clutch slippage.

I went with:

Spectro Heavy Duty Platnium 6 speed for tranny 75W140 GL5 (full synthetic)
Spectro Heavy Duty Primary Chaincase oil (non synthetic) for primary
Mobil 1 V Twin 20W50 for engine (full synthetic) w/K&N 170 oil filter
 
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spadesluck

Active Member
I had problems with synthetic in the primary with the stock clutch. (slippage) Since upgrading to a Bandit clutch I run what they suggest which is a Spectro non-synthetic. No problems at all.
 
You CANNOT run synthetic oil in a wet primary.
There are far too many well documented issues about slipping clutches when running synth in the primary. Every where else is acceptable.
 

Lifwghts

BIG BASTARD
Thank you for the info...............I will go with your recommendations unless I hear otherwise.

Much appreciated
 

JWScarab

Active Member
Yes, its all one piece - chrome, spin on and done. There is some discussion on here about paper particles coming off the K&N, and many use a K&P reuseable filter on the forum.

From what I read its the K&N170 for the EVO, and the K&N171 for the TC engines. Id check your application.

I still need to read more on the filters. I like the best filter out there, but I also like to "remove, throw away, put on new, and be done". I guess I second guess my ability to get the reusable K&P filter clean enough.

Again, I'm learning but I want to help. Listen to the experts (Kaptin Amerika) over my novice.
 

Lifwghts

BIG BASTARD
I have a 2005 Ridgeback with S&S 117...............so K&N 170C should be the correct for my application.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
GL1 = 75w140 ~ winter weight -75 being the thinnest.
GL5 = 80w90 ~ summer weight - being they do not change much when hot.

So, all the difference is, being a weight factor, i.e., viscosity. Could you get away with both? Yes.
Will the syn slip the clutch? Yes. For awhile.
Would the non-recommended oil harm the trans? An emphatic no.
Would any oil keep an engine running? Yes.
So, what you are saying is that if my oil is thick in the winter and takes a little longer to reach the moving parts, we have a few hours of a wear factor we add up how many times the engine started cold?
Wouldn't there be oil on the parts when the engine is turned off? Yes.
So in other words, no harm no foul we use any weight oil, show me the winter engines with 20w50 in them and I'll show you the same performance with 5w30 someone forgets to change out the winter/summer oil and oops, I have to buy a new car each year. LOL

:hi: JMO
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
I have a 2005 Ridgeback with S&S 117...............so K&N 170C should be the correct for my application.
Pleats: How tightly wound are my bed sheets, think.
Micron: If I were the incredible shrinking man, would not some things be in proportion? If I picked up a rock the size of a micron, or blows past the ring gaps; is now lodged against the piston skirt; gall lines form.
Gouge Stack: If I lined up all my gouge lines, I'd have an air gap or lost of compression.
Air is my cleaner: I want to stop microns from scoring my cylinder walls. I have dropped my engine's longer lasting integrity: running a v-stack only or a larger pleated air filter.

I want bed sheet filtering integrity as in dual filtering. Why? Less oil consumption; less bore jobs; less teardowns; more compression is held, not depleating compression down into the crankcase.

:spank: JMO You gotta look cool with the oddball parts like cone my ride.
:confused:
 

Lifwghts

BIG BASTARD
I purchased Bel Ray Gear Saver GL-5 80W-90 Hypoid and replaced my tranny fluid as I could not find the Spectro local..............since this is a GL 5 and I live in FL using 85/90W I should be in good shape?
Please chime in..........................Thx
 
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