Oil Leak

[Roaddawg]

So my 2005 Chopper has really never had any leaking oil problems. Only once or twice did I ever find a spot of oil beneath the bike, and then it was no bigger than a dime).

However, I was out on a short ride the other day, maybe 30 miles or so. Parked the bike in the garage and come out and find this.



I jacked the bike up, thinking it might be leaking from a loose primary drain bolt, or the bottom of the gasket between the inner and outer primary. However, the drain bolt is tight and secure, the gasket looked good, though there was evidence of oil there on the bottom of the primary (but really not much and only in the area where the leak appeared to be from.

It seems like the oil was leaking from where the inner primary connects to the transmission. The oil leak seemed to be above the plate (frame) that the engine sat on and was dripping from the edge. It didn't not appear to be from the vent on the back of the primary.

Has anyone had this type of issue? With limited mechanical ability, is it something I can take apart and replace seals (?) O-rings or whatever myself. With that being said, would Curtis stock the gaskets, seals etc. necessary?

I live on a dirt road and I ride my bike nearly every day. (about 62K so far, problem free). Would the vent in the primary get clogged and force fluid through the gasket or seal where it connects there?

Would it be somehow connected to the vibration issue, where the coil cover is cracked where it bolts to the rear cylinder?

Any advice, help, guidance would surely be appreciated. Thanks

 

[Blackie]

Mine leaked below primary/starter when stopped after riding. After trying numerous things I removed starter and took o ring to napa and got a size larger(thicker). Put starter back on and oil leak disappeared. Might try that if that is area leaking.

 

[ground pounder]

I had a leak that started out like yours and it turned out to be the seal between the transmission and primary. the primary fluid leaked into the trans and over filled it and it would leak out of the trans over flow tube. Easy to check. Drain the trans fluid and if there is more than 20 or 22 ounces then the seal has gone bad!!

 

[Lorenzo]

My K9 did the same thing. Change the "O" ring on the nose of the starter and you'll be fine.

 

[Roaddawg]

Appreciate the responses. I will pull the starter as my first step and go from there. Will post on the progress once I get it done.

 

[BBChopper]

Down tube sticker cause that!!!!

 

[ground pounder]

What have you found out on your leak roaddawg?

 

[Roaddawg]

Well, I have the starter off, got a thicker o-ring for that. While it was off I took the opportunity to clean the contacts inside. I am also installing a slam button on the starter that I purchased from WSW some time ago. In addition, the wire that went from one part of the starter to the other (thick, short wire with black boot) had all the insulation crumbling off. So, I have been layering on the liquid tape and will finish that with some heat shrink tubing.

I discovered that the coil cover was broken at the cylinder head bolt on the rear jug. So I ordered one off ebay for an excellent price. The new one does not have the big dog logo, it's all chrome, so I am thinking of etching something on it.

Since I was taking stuff off, I removed the tank, just to check the condition of the wiring beneath it, all looked good. Cleaned the underside of the tank, added some wax, cleaned up the tank mounting bolts (I probably could have used some new rubber spacers), and put that all back together.

Next is just giving everything (engine wise) a good clean and polishing while I have the starter and coil off. Makes for more room. Then put it all back together, cross my fingers, and hope that was where the leak was coming from. If not, then I guess it's time to pull the inner primary and replace those o-rings and such.

 

[Busa196]

How difficult is removing the starter to inspect that O-ring on the nose of the starter? I have a lift and am fairly mechanically inclined, just never have time to do a fing thing myself- and when I do, I want to enjoy the bike and ride it. So then, I pay people to do things because of my lack of free time and its never, ever, done right the fist time.

So, by the time I find the time to bring the bike back (40min away), then get a ride home, then wait for a second repair, then arrange for a ride to pick it up, then ride it 40min back home I should have just done it myself. Makes me so fing mad. The standard phrase "Oh yeah, no problem, bring it back and we'll take a look at it for you".....as if my time is free and its of no inconvenience to me....and they're doing me a favor. What a joke.

 

[ground pounder]

roaddawg ma.ke sure that its not leaking out of the overflow tube for the trans. If it is then you don,t have to pull the inner to replace the seal between the inner primary and the trans. Thanks for the update.

 

[Roaddawg]

Removing the starter was easier than I thought. I first disconnected the battery and took it out of the battery box. I plugged it into the trickle charger on the bench. I removed the exhausts, then the pully / clutch rod cover. I was surprised to find that the starter is only held on with two bolts. Those came out easily. The starter pulled right off. However, at this point I discovered that I couldn't pull it straight back and out. The drive belt blocked egress and I could not flex it enough to get the starter past it.

I tried wiggling, angling and maneuvering the starter around to no avail. Finally, I loosened the battery box and was able to slide the starter to freedom. Had I done that orignally, I don't think I would have had to removed the pulley cover.

 

[Busa196]

Good info, appreciate the feedback!

 

[Roaddawg]

Well, finally got the starter back on with the new, thicker oil ring. Took a little bit to get the clutch adjusted. For some reason, I can never seem to get it just right unless I keep tinkering with it. I follow the recommendations and turn the rod in until it just makes contact, then back it out. It always seems to be more that an eighth of a turn but not quite a quarter turn. I end up having to spend some time loosening the cable, backing the rod out, (usually I screw it in, then all the way out) then trying to find that sweet spot, tighten nut, tighten cable slack and try to see if it is where it should be.

Anyways, I finally got it where it snicks into neutral fairly easy, even at a stop. However, I still have a leak. I think its the seal between the primary and trans.

But one thing I can't figure out is this. I installed a slam button on the starter (when it was off, even cleaned up contacts real nice). I decided to test it when it was on the bike. So, I made sure it was in neutral, pressed the button all the way in...and ....nothing! So, I checked to make sure I hit the "run" position on the engine cut-off switch and tried again. Nothing! Did the same but this time turned the key to the "on" position. Nothing. I was making sure I was pushing the button in as far as it would go. And when I released it, it sprang right back out.

I hit the start button on the bike, under normal starting procedure, and the engine springs to life without hesitation.

Am I doing something wrong when I try the slam button???????

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Well, finally got the starter back on with the new, thicker oil ring. Took a little bit to get the clutch adjusted. For some reason, I can never seem to get it just right unless I keep tinkering with it. I follow the recommendations and turn the rod in until it just makes contact, then back it out. It always seems to be more that an eighth of a turn but not quite a quarter turn. I end up having to spend some time loosening the cable, backing the rod out, (usually I screw it in, then all the way out) then trying to find that sweet spot, tighten nut, tighten cable slack and try to see if it is where it should be.

Anyways, I finally got it where it snicks into neutral fairly easy, even at a stop. However, I still have a leak. I think its the seal between the primary and trans.

But one thing I can't figure out is this. I installed a slam button on the starter (when it was off, even cleaned up contacts real nice). I decided to test it when it was on the bike. So, I made sure it was in neutral, pressed the button all the way in...and ....nothing! So, I checked to make sure I hit the "run" position on the engine cut-off switch and tried again. Nothing! Did the same but this time turned the key to the "on" position. Nothing. I was making sure I was pushing the button in as far as it would go. And when I released it, it sprang right back out.

I hit the start button on the bike, under normal starting procedure, and the engine springs to life without hesitation.

Am I doing something wrong when I try the slam button???????

Probably not pushing it in far enough or the slam button isn't set right. It's got that nut on the back for adjustment.

Slam button has always caused me issues I just got rid of it. Only helpful if your start button failed chances are slim

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

 

[BWG56]

Probably not pushing it in far enough or the slam button isn't set right. It's got that nut on the back for adjustment.

Slam button has always caused me issues I just got rid of it. Only helpful if your start button failed chances are slim

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

Not really, I got one from a vendor on here and its a cheapy, no adjustment but it did work if you push it in beyond the end of the cap, another words your finger has to go part way in the hole. Yes I said that

 

[BadDawg Bill]

I had a leak that started out like yours and it turned out to be the seal between the transmission and primary. the primary fluid leaked into the trans and over filled it and it would leak out of the trans over flow tube. Easy to check. Drain the trans fluid and if there is more than 20 or 22 ounces then the seal has gone bad!!

That sounds logical but the extra oil comes out when you are riding all over the place and it will be at a normal level. I think I have that problem on my Harley... Just checked it last night and the trans oil was fine but oil on the frame. I cleaned the frame off and let it sit over night. No oil this morning. Took it for a short ride and after parking it checked the frame and oil.....

 

[Roaddawg]

I'll have to see if I can push it in further then. There is no adjustment, just the cap which is spring loaded by the plunger in the starter. I'll keep you informed. I added it for emergency purposes only, but just want to make sure it is going to work if needed