Oil from vent hose

[SimpleMan_Omen]

I have a 2003 Pitbull with the 107" S&S. I would love to know which series it is so that I can look up a manual for it. Yes, it is a 4" bore Evo, but which series manual does that correspond to?

Looking at other manual it appears that I have an oil vent hose, which instead of being routed to the carb is turned down under the bike. When I push the starter it begins to pour oil out of that hose. This bike has been sitting for two years and wasn't doing this when it was parked. It isn't running right now (I'm about to replace the ignition and starter clutch). I also noticed that an oil spot appeared under the bike from that hose as well.

Any thoughts as to the potential cause?

Thanks.

 

[Mr. Wright]

What has happened, is because it was sitting for so long the oil has sumped into the bottom of the engine. When you start it up it has no other place to go than out the vent tube. Once you get it running the oil pump or push the rest of the oil back into the tank. After you get it warmed up drain all the fluids and replace with 3 quarts of oil. Pull your tappet screen and make sure there's no trash in it. if this bike is ran often you might not have that problem again. Once you find out that it's going to run okay plug off that vent tube at the back of the engine. I talked with a guy at S&S and he said that that can be done because it vents through the top of the heads.
If you look at the bottom of my post in the signature spot there is a shortcut to Manuel's

 

[FrankBDPS]

That's the first I have read about plugging off that vent tube. Interesting. Thanks for the info Mr Wright.

 

[1 B.M.F.]

I’m lost on the Bottom of post signature spot?? Don’t know where your talking about a little help. I haven’t heard of this.

 

[HMAN]

I’m lost on the Bottom of post signature spot?? Don’t know where your talking about a little help. I haven’t heard of this.

If you are using your device to view the page, change the view to "Desktop view" or "Request desktop site". Mr Wrights sig will show then.

 

[SimpleMan_Omen]

I’m lost on the Bottom of post signature spot?? Don’t know where your talking about a little help. I haven’t heard of this.

Manuals >>> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4342373flodnbhj/AACDvhA93EOHPPKCs2gYPQDPa?dl=0anualsan

That is what's in his signature. It has a bunch of manuals and information on the Big Dogs. Bookmark it.

 

[SimpleMan_Omen]

What has happened, is because it was sitting for so long the oil has sumped into the bottom of the engine. When you start it up it has no other place to go than out the vent tube. Once you get it running the oil pump or push the rest of the oil back into the tank. After you get it warmed up drain all the fluids and replace with 3 quarts of oil. Pull your tappet screen and make sure there's no trash in it. if this bike is ran often you might not have that problem again. Once you find out that it's going to run okay plug off that vent tube at the back of the engine. I talked with a guy at S&S and he said that that can be done because it vents through the top of the heads.
If you look at the bottom of my post in the signature spot there is a shortcut to Manuel's

Thank you

 

[Sven]

Known as a dry sump system (remote oil tank), the oil tank has this pressure on top of the oil. Got a scale in the house? Take your hand and press down to register 15 pounds or a little less. That's the pressure pushing on top of the oil surface and then that same pressure or maybe more at the oil pump blades. Back in the 1950's and all that jet engine technology going on, the army found out that oil can flow with a millionth of an inch gap. With the tank raised higher away from the pump blade, it's got a good run at it pressure wise. Or think fathom pressure the lower you go from the surface, right? Put a 25 gallon barrel on the top of your head. That's the weight if for argument sake is the example squared? So sink under the surface the height of the barrel so now you have the weight of 2 barrels on top of your head in that pressure = Squared.

Home he here is going after; press your brain against thislippery theory:

Slow as the bike sits, slow does the oil... right past the sides of the pump blades housing, past the check ball that might be compromised being pressured up, then down into the crankcase. There is so much air take-up in the crankcase, because the one piston is going up, and the other is coming down share this air space. Once that crank spins and carries up excess oil, flings it in the air; now think of this instead as liquid air you can visualize.

Can you see that one piston's direction equalizes that of the underside of that piston's volume? One is a push, the other is a pull of that bubble, if you will imagine. And that is where you want it plumbed out to atmosphere so there is no pressure build in that balanced transition. Meaning, once they equal out at the bottom, skirt for skirt, and then continue their strokes, there is your bubble burst out the breather, and then equals back in = Newton style.

Buy refilling the oil tank, you have a few cookie sheets under the bike so once you start the bike, you catch what should have been air. And this is just my opinion about any low miler kind of waste of time, short of a book service interval cleaning. I had a 2008 aprilia that had a remote oil tank and filled the crankcase within weeks. JMO, but it's part of the beast and a check ball is a waste of time doing all dis magic polishing/tapping/drill cut the 45° back in shape when; 14.7 is fucking with your spring-a-ding-ding.

We square?

 

[john sachs]

You may need to reseat the ball check in the shortest tower of the oil pump. Cap, spring, and ball removal in that order.
John