Neutral Light stays on

[glarkin]

Hi all, I originally had a problem with the speedo that had pegged and never reset. I check a lot of the system as recommended and determined that it was the speedo, bought a Dakota and it is great and I really like it. Now here is the problem, after reasembly my neurtral light stays on all of the time. Just so you know what I did, when I pulled the speedo housing apart one of the wires (black) looked like it had come off, actually to a post in the middle. It actually did not even look like it was soldered. So I resodered it to the open one. I was very careful in soldering and taped up all around so I would not get on the other ends. So what happen, should I have not soldered that one, or did for some reason it did bleed over to one of the other connections. I also put the Di-Electro grease over those connections. What did I do wrong? Will it maybe reset? Should I have not put the grease on it? Do I need to make sure the solder did not bleed over? Should I have not soldered that on their? Will it hurt the bike if I ride it. Lots of questions sorry, but thinks.

Dick

 

[BigDogBro1]

Are you describing the 3-pronged speedo head connector (red, black and green) power, ground and signal?

Was that black wire broken when the bad speedo was on the bike? If it was, chances are that's why the bad speedo pegged.

According to my "07" wiring diagram if it's the same for your "06" then the Neutral signal is now always LOW (below a volt or so) or is now grounded for some reason causing the LED to light up. In the "07" diagram you have it would be the GREEN signal wire for the neutral LED at the larger speedo unit connector. When your bike IS in neutral check the signal for near DC ground voltage. When in GEAR it should be near 12 volts DC, I think.

The neutral sensor is on top of the trans with two contacts on it and the flat connector. It is a normally closed switch. With the key OFF, check the trans neutral switch across the two contacts for continuity (OPEN, near infinity ohms) when the bike is in neutral and shorted when in gear. You could remove the switch and check for same as well. Switch could be bad or poor wire connector contacts.

That's what the diagram shows. Anyway you should see a switched difference between in-neutral and in-gear.

 

[glarkin]

It is the plug that goes to the tach. It has several wires and it is the green wire (I originally said black) that goes to the neutral that I sodered. So maybe that is my problem. I was very careful not to link into the others. Could sodering it caused a problem? But since it stays on all of the time maybe I shorted something out. Seems to always be something with the bike. I hope it will not hurt the bike being on all of the time. I did put a big glob of Di electro on all of the connections there which includes turn, high beam, oil and tach, should I have not done that? On the wiring diagram you sent me it is 10 and 11 and in the middle on left. Thanks for all of your help.

 

[PROFLYER]

Did you put grease in the plug itself or ON the tiny soldered connections? If thats what you did, they might be sending enough current through that grease (its designed to increase the conduction of current and to seal the plug better). If you didn't put in ON the tach board, then its your solder job...you could probably score (with like a little dental pick or something) between the contacts on either side of the soldered wire and break whatever tiny connection you may have made. Turn the bike off, score it a bit, turn the bike on, see if the light goes off. If you did get grease all over those contacts some electrical parts cleaner will take it off, just don't get too crazy with that stuff.

 

[PROFLYER]

Side note, I just had mine apart and noticed those tiny wires and thought "man, that would suck ass to pull one of those off" if might be worth taking it into a local stereo or tv repair kinda guy to have him clean up whatever mess you might have made...

 

[BigDogBro1]

A poor soldering job could be the cause. It could be a single tiny wire that unrwound from the group and is touching an adjacent connection.

No need to put grease on the solder connection. It's used for contacts only. All that grease needs to be cleaned off before you attempt to resolder the connection.

You need to read my post again.

Did you check the trans neutral switch and signals like I suggested?

 

[glarkin]

Ok, I have a few things I must say. First of all you guys are the greatest, I cannot believe how willing you are to help and even though you may not think it, I do follow your recommendations to the tee. I did check the neurtal switch as you suggested. Now here is what I really have to say, I am a Dumb Ass (yes Capitol D and Capitol A), I should not have put that greese on those soder connectors, I cleaned them off and that was it. I am actually proud of my solder, I googled how to do it and was very careful with that and was happy that it was not that. So now until the next adventure. Once again you guys are great, and if I ever can I will buy you a cold beer or two. Thanks again. Now I just have to stand on my head in putting it back together, those little screws are a little hard to get started, but with my daughter's good eyes and holding the assembly, we will get it done. I guess I am spoiled with my Victory Vegas, I have had no trouble at all with that bike, and boy what a difference going from the K-9 to the Vegas, like getting on a moped.

 

[BigDogBro1]

It sounds like it's working, am I right? No DA intended, just happy to get you running.

GREAT job, Now you know what it takes sometimes to get things fixed. Enjoy the ride!

Thanks, the forum members and I thank you for the positive feedback.

 

[glarkin]

Runs great and all back together, thanks again. Like I mentioned on a previous post, it is a 4 year old bike with 1000 miles, I really believe it is hard of them to just set without riding. So ride I will.