Lifter block seals

Energy One
C

COOPer

Member
I noticed lifter block seals where pushrods go through are seeping some. Deas the S&S 117 have adjustable push rods? If so can the seals be replaced without taking rocker box covers off?
 
knothead

knothead

Second Chance Customs
Are you talking about under the pushrod cover o rings in the top of the lifter block or you talking about seal between the lifter block and case????.....if just removing the pushrod covers to replace the o-rings then NO you dont have to remove the rocker boxes.....but if its the lifter block gasket between it and the motor then YES you have to remove the rocker boxes....also make sure when you take out the pushrods put them back where the came from because they are different lengths as far as exhaust and intake....and when pulling the lifter blocks make sure you dont drop the lifters in the cam chest....im sure there is vidoes on youtube that will help walk you thru it
 
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mleach72

mleach72

Well-Known Member
Your engine has adjustable pushrods, but they don't adjust short enough to come out. As knothead said, you will have to remove the rocker boxes to change the gasket between the engine block and lifter block. The other alternative is to cut the stock rods with a bolt cutter and install a set of adjustable pushrods like the s&s quickees that can be taken in and out without pulling the rocker boxes.
 
john sachs

john sachs

Well-Known Member
Very important. When ever you remove a pushrod that has been adjusted, or an non-adjustable pushrod, or an adjustable pushrod that needs to be adjusted, when reinstalling, or re-adjusting, be careful that you don't open the valve into the piston, or into the other valve that's in the same cylinder. You need to let the lifter bleed down as you adjust, or tighten the rocker box. This is NOT a job for the in-experienced.:oldbang: You can spend a lot of money if you make a mistake. Also the cylinder that's getting the pushrods adjusted or reinstalled, needs to be on the compression stroke. I usually set the cylinder I'm working on a "C" hair past absolute TDC compression stroke.
John
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
Chap 5 page 5:
I'd have a pushrod loose enough to show an air gap open enough to move an oring past the rod and lifter.
With aircraft type safety wire, make a long [longer than the tubes x'2] U so you capture oring-21 and run it down the tube(s) from the inside.
Same goes with rings 29, but 31 being the easiest to replace. Repeat by dragging the new rings inside the tubes and out.

Chap 5 page 15.
EOIC valve settings using one cylinder only:
Working at one cylinder only, the trick to remember is to think 'AS SOON AS THE' is the method to EOIC.
With seeing the Exhaust-Open, and that means, 'as soon as you see the exhaust begin to open you stop.'
You now adjust said turns to the intake of that same cylinder.
Turn the wheel and watch for IC or stop as soon as you see the Intake Close. You now set the exhaust rod.
With the book's way of setting watching the other cylinder, you can run this method for a single cylinder so both work the same way.

And if one begins to leak, you are better off changing them all out. Or read the oring as aged-hard/cracked/lost suppleness/cut-pinched from previous work/etc.

We catching the time/money/parts/less parts removed/need replacing?

Signed,
Flat Rate
 
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