Leading Me to the EHC 2004 Ridgeback

[rickd62]

In my previous thread I stated I had no spark while engine turned over fine. I had what seemed to be all other electrical functions. Sven gave me some useful tips on narrowing down the issue.

Everything now is leading me to believe it may be the EHC that needs to be replaced for these reasons:

1) All ignition functions come from the EHC according to my maintenance and service manual.
2) I have 12 vdc to the EHC.
3) When I turn the ignition key and push run I get no indicator lights on the EHC, no lights at all for that matter.
4) The bike won't even turn over when I try to start her now.
5) My ignition module indicator light is dead. Does not illuminate no matter what!
6) No power to the coil.
7) No horn, lights or turn signals. I get the neutral light and oil light on the speedometer, but nothing in the display box.
8) She just quit on me after a long ride. All I did after the ride was park her in the garage and tried to start her a week later with these noted issues compounding.

I'm looking for a couple of things here; 1) confirmation that my diagnosis is correct and I didn't miss anything and 2) recommendations on an EHC for 2004 Ridgeback.

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Item one is incorrect.
The EHC providers power to the ignition system and the tach signal passes through the EHC for data logging purposes. All other ignition functions are handled by the ignition system.

It does sound like your EHC had been damaged and I would highly recommend immediate testing of your charging system. The OEM VRs are a known EHC killer.

Our recommendation is the Electronik EHC. Plug N Play

Electronik 04 EHC

We can bench test your EHC for 49.95. If it fails and you purchase the Electronik EHC from us we will deduct the test fee from the EHC cost.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

I don't know about your other thread but I agree with Curtis, ignition is just pass through power.

I didn't read your other thread so I apologize and I'm sure it's been mentioned but

1) You've got the battery load tested and it passed and 2) You have checked the ignition switch?

It's easy to check the ignition switch just jump the two terminals in the JST connector

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[rickd62]

So the bike suddenly started after I did all of my checks. I took her out for a spin and all was well until I got about quarter mile down the road and then she died! She shut down and I coasted to the side of the road. She wouldn't fire off after a couple of tries and then she started again. While she was running and I was sitting in neutral, I held the throttle to maintain 15 hundred rpm's and after around 30 seconds, she cut out again. This happened a few other times before I had her towed home.

 

[rickd62]

Item one is incorrect.
The EHC providers power to the ignition system and the tach signal passes through the EHC for data logging purposes. All other ignition functions are handled by the ignition system.

It does sound like your EHC had been damaged and I would highly recommend immediate testing of your charging system. The OEM VRs are a known EHC killer.

Our recommendation is the Electronik EHC. Plug N Play

Electronik 04 EHC

We can bench test your EHC for 49.95. If it fails and you purchase the Electronik EHC from us we will deduct the test fee from the EHC cost.

Curtis - what is the process for me to get the EHC to you for testing?

 

[rickd62]

Item one is incorrect.
The EHC providers power to the ignition system and the tach signal passes through the EHC for data logging purposes. All other ignition functions are handled by the ignition system.

It does sound like your EHC had been damaged and I would highly recommend immediate testing of your charging system. The OEM VRs are a known EHC killer.

Our recommendation is the Electronik EHC. Plug N Play

Electronik 04 EHC

We can bench test your EHC for 49.95. If it fails and you purchase the Electronik EHC from us we will deduct the test fee from the EHC cost.

Will the OEM VR damage the new EHC if I need to replace it?

 

[Mr. Wright]

Sounds to me like you have a broke wire, between the EHC and the ignition module.

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Curtis - what is the process for me to get the EHC to you for testing?

You'll ship it to

Wild Steed Worx
14369 Ava Ln
Valley Center, Ca 92082

When it shuts down are you losing all power or just the motor?

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Will the OEM VR damage the new EHC if I need to replace it?

Quite possibly, if it damaged your OEM EHC there is no reason to believe it won't damage the new one. Losing all power is one thing. If your only losing the motor then you need to test your Crank sensor.

 

[Rottweiler]

Have your made sure your EHC has a good ground?
I know testing while on the bike is a pain. Lift the EHC connector and test the wires for the key switch.

 

[Rottweiler]

I will upload some help soon.

 

[Rottweiler]

View attachment 59350 View attachment 59351 View attachment 59352

 

[rickd62]

You'll ship it to

Wild Steed Worx
14369 Ava Ln
Valley Center, Ca 92082

When it shuts down are you losing all power or just the motor?

When it shuts down I lose all power.

 

[KaptinAmerika]

The easiest way to test for the ignition switch is to separate the connector just before, or at, the coil cover. Ball up a small piece of aluminum foil and insert it into the bike's harness side. Fire up the bike and see if it quits again. If it does then it's not the ignition switch. If it doesn't then replace the switch.
If it's not the switch them you either have something shorting out the inbound mosfet power buss or a failing component in the EHC.

 

[Rottweiler]

If you loose everything it could just be a shorting wire or a bad ground.
All switches / inputs to the EHC go to ground.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

the 04 EHC also had a recall on the EHC harness it was their first attempt and it didn't lock down well.

Take you a minute to check it. When you turn the bike on in the garage and the Red power light comes on just stick your hand on the top of the EHC harness and just wiggle it a tad see if the power light on the module goes in and out. This is what happened to mine and they did provide a fix but it wasn't very good either and I zip tied it together and it held for the rest of the season then I replaced it all. But intermittently would start and run and sometimes go miles and sometimes can't get out the driveway took me a little while to track it down and that was also a Long time ago...lol

Take a pic of the harness and it's connection to the EHC we can tell you.


And I dug up pictures this is back in 2011...lol.

Here's a video too if the problem you can see the light go out from the vibration and just a little touch put it back on.


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[rickd62]

The easiest way to test for the ignition switch is to separate the connector just before, or at, the coil cover. Ball up a small piece of aluminum foil and insert it into the bike's harness side. Fire up the bike and see if it quits again. If it does then it's not the ignition switch. If it doesn't then replace the switch.
If it's not the switch them you either have something shorting out the inbound mosfet power buss or a failing component in the EHC.

I will check the ignition switch, but the reason I don't believe it is the switch is that the problem first started with me not getting any spark when I would try to start her. The bike would turn over fine, but no spark when I pulled a plug and grounded the threads to a head bolt. After I checked to see if I had coil voltage, which I didn't, and I put the coil cover back on the bike started for me. She would run and then cutout. I would try to restart her and she would turn over, but not fire each time prior to this I would turn the key off and back on. Then, she would fire up and run. I would keep her in neutral and hold the throttle to 1500 rpm and in about 20 seconds completely cut out. I'd turn the key off and back on and she wouldn't start the first couple of times and then start again.