Jimmy the Freedom rider
Member
How do you set the TPS on a 2008 bulldog with fuel injection?
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Idling problems
- Thread starter Jimmy the Freedom rider
- Start date
There is no point to adjusting the TPS. It's ignition timing related. If it was never moved, do not go after it as an idling problem. If you did move it, look for the original indents and move it back to that position. Two things will happen ignition wise. Idle degree is all she wrote at that TPS position. You go out of range, it defaults to the same degree as a backup, a fail-safe, a Huston we have a problem.
TPS is just that. It sees a closed throttle at this value, and then the WOT range. However, it can't go past those closed/WOT values. That's why the TPS is slotted and has to dial within the open and closed ranges with a volt meter, usually:
a. Manual might have those numbers and a special tool needed? The loophole is to stick the thinnest and longest nail at the back of the main connector harness side, touch the pins in the connecter; read where it is now closed; then WOT the throttle. Set the meter to 20v; key on; closed reads [for argument sake] 4.75v and WOT reads 5.25v. Breakout of those ranges and you are not sync'd with the black box.
b. Not in the manual? The a member would have to back-probe the TPS connectors and read theirs so you can move it to that range.
c. Back to the code lights triggered by the disconnect... yeah, if applies. On the reconnect, it should turn off the LED(s). If that happens, you are within range of those values. If it remains on, then you ever so slowly move the TPS a hair at a time, and watch the LED code light(s) turn off. Wait 10 seconds or more before the next hair move... literally. That says you just set it turning the code off, and that too is within range... lock it down. Get it?
So first I want to know if the black box will throw a code with an LED single or combo of readings. A simple disconnect and then key on only. I want to wait for the black box to make a processing move and throw a code in say 15 seconds or less... with key on only.
I now start the bike with the TPS disconnected. Did the idle change or remain the same. Let's say no change occurred. Not the TPS even if you did move it, right?
As it is running this cold, meaning, as soon as it starts up, you spray brake or contact cleaner at the Y intake manifold ends at the heads. It stalls or idles faster, there is your poor idle with an air leak.
And no I do not own a BD, but it's as if I walked up to an FI bike I knew nothing about.
TPS is just that. It sees a closed throttle at this value, and then the WOT range. However, it can't go past those closed/WOT values. That's why the TPS is slotted and has to dial within the open and closed ranges with a volt meter, usually:
a. Manual might have those numbers and a special tool needed? The loophole is to stick the thinnest and longest nail at the back of the main connector harness side, touch the pins in the connecter; read where it is now closed; then WOT the throttle. Set the meter to 20v; key on; closed reads [for argument sake] 4.75v and WOT reads 5.25v. Breakout of those ranges and you are not sync'd with the black box.
b. Not in the manual? The a member would have to back-probe the TPS connectors and read theirs so you can move it to that range.
c. Back to the code lights triggered by the disconnect... yeah, if applies. On the reconnect, it should turn off the LED(s). If that happens, you are within range of those values. If it remains on, then you ever so slowly move the TPS a hair at a time, and watch the LED code light(s) turn off. Wait 10 seconds or more before the next hair move... literally. That says you just set it turning the code off, and that too is within range... lock it down. Get it?
So first I want to know if the black box will throw a code with an LED single or combo of readings. A simple disconnect and then key on only. I want to wait for the black box to make a processing move and throw a code in say 15 seconds or less... with key on only.
I now start the bike with the TPS disconnected. Did the idle change or remain the same. Let's say no change occurred. Not the TPS even if you did move it, right?
As it is running this cold, meaning, as soon as it starts up, you spray brake or contact cleaner at the Y intake manifold ends at the heads. It stalls or idles faster, there is your poor idle with an air leak.
And no I do not own a BD, but it's as if I walked up to an FI bike I knew nothing about.
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
Use Protune II to check that the voltage is within the proper range at idle.
Let it tun for a few minutes and watch it. When my TPS went bad it would idle and read normal then suddenly jump to up then drop down and then sit back at normal without the throttle being touched.
Solution was a simple replacement.
Let it tun for a few minutes and watch it. When my TPS went bad it would idle and read normal then suddenly jump to up then drop down and then sit back at normal without the throttle being touched.
Solution was a simple replacement.
Which made me think... remove the ground(s) off the battery... with a remote wire, touch the ground cable to the hot side of the battery... more like tap it a few times so you empty the RAM saved in the hardware (capacitors)... reconnect so the black box starts with an unsaved [electrical] value to read off of.
The reversengineering goes... I had a few ECM's sitting on the bench. They sat for a long time. I stabbed each pin to see if the meter would spike? I found a pin that did just that. Hit it again and it kept on spiking. I tapped until the meter did not show a value like the other pins. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Jimmy never mentioned how well you described it, Jersey. If it mimics just that, odds are pretty good... just saying. But if not...Just one more variable messing with FI and the mechanics of the hardware... You say software, I chase the shit under the hood for a stab in the dark.
Signed,
I don't throw parts at it just yet.
The reversengineering goes... I had a few ECM's sitting on the bench. They sat for a long time. I stabbed each pin to see if the meter would spike? I found a pin that did just that. Hit it again and it kept on spiking. I tapped until the meter did not show a value like the other pins. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Jimmy never mentioned how well you described it, Jersey. If it mimics just that, odds are pretty good... just saying. But if not...Just one more variable messing with FI and the mechanics of the hardware... You say software, I chase the shit under the hood for a stab in the dark.
Signed,
I don't throw parts at it just yet.
pknowles
RETIRED
They didnt make an 08 Bulldog?