High beam indicator flickering
- Thread starter 2005RB
- Start date
Mr. Wright
Knows some things
I believe he talking about the indicator on the tact ring. It may have a loose soldier connection. Pull it out, and check it for cracks with a magnifying glass.
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
Well he might have the non-military version and only have a loose solder connection!
SKOGDOG
One of the old ones.
Mine did that after I installed a Daymaker headlight. Those headlamps are deep and have a pigtail to plug in. The result was that the insulation on the high beam wire rubbed thru and was grounding out against the headlight bucket.
Tape and a couple of zip ties fixed that.
Tape and a couple of zip ties fixed that.
What exactly are you referring to? Which ground? Any pics?
Thanks for the help and response!
Think of it as a loop... is a table lamp.
1. Plug blades to bulb holder - I ohm the blade to the wire up to the jobber. That says both wires are not broken down the length of the wire, nor is the blade losing contact at that wire too.
2. The jobber is going to have on/off toggles at the switch - says the jobber's mechanical on/off is working, the bulb ground of the jobber's casing has integrity, and the center tang that touches the bulb's bottom has integrity to flow.
3. The meter is switched to AC and shows power out of the wall switch - Is not the power source, i.e., battery.
4. The light bulb is working, but if you shake it, it touches the broken filament and comes on, then goes off = Broken filament.
Bike's Jobber:
a. I have two wires and a jobber (speedo/tach light) so all I do is treat it like a lamp loop.
b. I look for the wires coming out of the jobber (bulb/switch/tach lights, etc.) and apply #1 to the wires.
c. I disconnect the tach/sp from the harness. I check blades on up to the jobber.
d. I move the wire and watch if the blade loses integrity as I wiggle the wire at the blade.
e. I first turn the key on, hold the jobber's connector in one hand, the main harness in the other... start moving the blades at the wire male/female prongs, and watch the jobber break from power or remain stationary - It's not the jobber's harness up to the jobber.
Kind of see how you generically walk up to the jobber and begin the diagnosis... Who gives a shit about a photo. It's your basic lamp looping is watt you are doing.
1. Plug blades to bulb holder - I ohm the blade to the wire up to the jobber. That says both wires are not broken down the length of the wire, nor is the blade losing contact at that wire too.
2. The jobber is going to have on/off toggles at the switch - says the jobber's mechanical on/off is working, the bulb ground of the jobber's casing has integrity, and the center tang that touches the bulb's bottom has integrity to flow.
3. The meter is switched to AC and shows power out of the wall switch - Is not the power source, i.e., battery.
4. The light bulb is working, but if you shake it, it touches the broken filament and comes on, then goes off = Broken filament.
Bike's Jobber:
a. I have two wires and a jobber (speedo/tach light) so all I do is treat it like a lamp loop.
b. I look for the wires coming out of the jobber (bulb/switch/tach lights, etc.) and apply #1 to the wires.
c. I disconnect the tach/sp from the harness. I check blades on up to the jobber.
d. I move the wire and watch if the blade loses integrity as I wiggle the wire at the blade.
e. I first turn the key on, hold the jobber's connector in one hand, the main harness in the other... start moving the blades at the wire male/female prongs, and watch the jobber break from power or remain stationary - It's not the jobber's harness up to the jobber.
Kind of see how you generically walk up to the jobber and begin the diagnosis... Who gives a shit about a photo. It's your basic lamp looping is watt you are doing.
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Gall damn that is some trick shit in there. Here at BD warranty claim, you towed in your new bike wit HA blown motor. Tech downloaded how many times the engine exceeded 6-grand and that's WOT it's going to cost you to repair your abused throttle openings... the processor does not lie. LOL ... and can you get into that file and zero out the evidence? I doubt it.
Oh shit, no shit, it's pro/reprogram my tire/ratio change. I didn't know chapter 8 sort of lifted the hood of the black box and exposed that much. I change ratio I recalibrate. I replace tires as a set, I recalibrate. I monitor I am half way worn with my tires, I recalibrate.
Ping me 49440 thousand times one mile @45mph... and that is by accurate foot to foot calibrating. Pretty cool shit.
Oh shit, no shit, it's pro/reprogram my tire/ratio change. I didn't know chapter 8 sort of lifted the hood of the black box and exposed that much. I change ratio I recalibrate. I replace tires as a set, I recalibrate. I monitor I am half way worn with my tires, I recalibrate.
Ping me 49440 thousand times one mile @45mph... and that is by accurate foot to foot calibrating. Pretty cool shit.
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Hey Sven, I haven't been able to find the decoding book that's needed to figure out what you are posting most of the time. This time it seems like you like the contents of Chapter 8. Am I right??
I do believe you are correct, Mike. I love any black box's abstract paragraph/sentences. Don't know how it works, but the puzzles keep popping up, and makes me wonder how they came up with the formula? That forty nine four forty pings twice. It takes 2 miles for it to learn, say. So 98880 takes those two miles, where a mile is 5280 feet, and then we binary speak something like;
" 528/2 = 264, remainder is 0 "
Where I'm sort of chasing bits vs binary. 264 bits goes to 0 or divided by 2 says it takes at least 2 miles to recalc the speedo. I sort of see mile one goes to 0 with this formula. The second calc is the average of the 'best calc' made when it returns to 0 a second time. In other words, it has so many thousands of calcs that are processing at this side of light speed. E is the pulse so it's got some fast hardware inside.
Bottom line, you are handcuffed to tire pressure, tire growth form centrifugal force, and a continuous sliding scale or wear, making the wheel's circumference smaller. So if you were to plan some mileage per gallon... here is your more accurate option so as to not run of gas because the trip is not calc'd if the speedo is off, right?
" 528/2 = 264, remainder is 0 "
Where I'm sort of chasing bits vs binary. 264 bits goes to 0 or divided by 2 says it takes at least 2 miles to recalc the speedo. I sort of see mile one goes to 0 with this formula. The second calc is the average of the 'best calc' made when it returns to 0 a second time. In other words, it has so many thousands of calcs that are processing at this side of light speed. E is the pulse so it's got some fast hardware inside.
Bottom line, you are handcuffed to tire pressure, tire growth form centrifugal force, and a continuous sliding scale or wear, making the wheel's circumference smaller. So if you were to plan some mileage per gallon... here is your more accurate option so as to not run of gas because the trip is not calc'd if the speedo is off, right?
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
My take: Tire size, front and rear pulley size translates to distance per revolution. Slight size variable by tire pressure and centrifugal force. The speed sensor in transmission signals # of pulses per tire revolution for a given combination of tires sizes and pulley configurations. Stock is 49440 pulses per mile. My guess for calibrating over 2 miles is only to remove some of the variables from the calculation. Example: smaller tire would generate more pulses per mile and larger tire fewer pulses.
When in calibrating mode the speedometer basically counts how many pulses it took in order to move the bike 2 miles or 98880 on a stock bike. It then translates that to 1 mile (for accuracy) by dividing the total by 2 (98880/2 = 49440). Hence: for every 49440 pulses ( signals) from the sensor = 1 MPH .
If the speedometer is reading 30 MPH it would be sensing 30 x 49440 pulses or 1,483,200. These numbers seem way high so the pulse calculation must have an exponent in it. Maybe every pulse is multiplied by 10x. I'm getting a headache guessing about this and I think it's Sven tormenting me one post at a time
When in calibrating mode the speedometer basically counts how many pulses it took in order to move the bike 2 miles or 98880 on a stock bike. It then translates that to 1 mile (for accuracy) by dividing the total by 2 (98880/2 = 49440). Hence: for every 49440 pulses ( signals) from the sensor = 1 MPH .
If the speedometer is reading 30 MPH it would be sensing 30 x 49440 pulses or 1,483,200. These numbers seem way high so the pulse calculation must have an exponent in it. Maybe every pulse is multiplied by 10x. I'm getting a headache guessing about this and I think it's Sven tormenting me one post at a time
