Hey guys any help would be appreciated I've lost compression on number 2 cylinder I put the rings in where should I go from here

[Ricky B1]

Any help would be appreciated I've lost compression on number 2 cylinder I put the rings in where do I go from here

 

[Rottweiler]

Did you verify that the compression release is not stuck open?

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[Rottweiler]

Are the valves closing all the way. If a vavle is bent it won't close.

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[Ricky B1]

I took a pick and held it up while turning it over. Is that what you would do?

 

[Ricky B1]

I had the head off and flipped it over and poured we 40 in it and it never bled through the valve

 

[knothead]

I agree with Rottweiler sound to be a compression release stuck

 

[Ricky B1]

How would I go about testing that

 

[Sven]

What rings? Did you take the top end off and refresh with piston rings?

 

[Ricky B1]

Yes

 

[Sven]

Think of setting the pushrods like this... EOIC is to remember that letter sequence as you look at the one cylinder only.
EO = Exhaust [pushrod] begins to Open... stop when you see it move. On the intake side, you spin the intake pushrod or feel for any up and down movement. A tight intake pushrod might show it by this EOIC position. This is to see if the valve remains open and you have no compression.

IC = Intake [pushrod] begins to Close... as soon as you see it move on the close, stop... same as the ex move/stop. Go and check the exhaust rod and see if it can spin. Tight says it is keeping the valve open.

If you want to recheck your adjustments, I think it's 25 flats to spin the rod longer, once you take the up and down movement out of the rod. It should spin like it's on ice, with zero up and down movement. Begin to count the flats at the rod.

So as not to confuse yourself watching, just chose a cylinder to start with, and keep an eye on the intake. Yes, rotate the engine a few times so you see the in-rod lift and the come back down. You know this is the compression stroke when the in-rod comes down. Can you start with either side? Sure. Just remember who you are watching in the EOIC movement.

This is how they adjust solid lifters for the NASCAR V8 engines. Same principal with hydro lifters too.

 

[Ricky B1]

Thank you for

Think of setting the pushrods like this... EOIC is to remember that letter sequence as you look at the one cylinder only.
EO = Exhaust [pushrod] begins to Open... stop when you see it move. On the intake side, you spin the intake pushrod or feel for any up and down movement. A tight intake pushrod might show it by this EOIC position. This is to see if the valve remains open and you have no compression.

IC = Intake [pushrod] begins to Close... as soon as you see it move on the close, stop... same as the ex move/stop. Go and check the exhaust rod and see if it can spin. Tight says it is keeping the valve open.

If you want to recheck your adjustments, I think it's 25 flats to spin the rod longer, once you take the up and down movement out of the rod. It should spin like it's on ice, with zero up and down movement. Begin to count the flats at the rod.

So as not to confuse yourself watching, just chose a cylinder to start with, and keep an eye on the intake. Yes, rotate the engine a few times so you see the in-rod lift and the come back down. You know this is the compression stroke when the in-rod comes down. Can you start with either side? Sure. Just remember who you are watching in the EOIC movement.

This is how they adjust solid lifters for the NASCAR V8 engines. Same principal with hydro lifters too.

 

[Ricky B1]

Thank you very much I'll tear into it tonight

 

[john sachs]

If you're going to do the way it's listed above, be SURE you're NOT trying to check the push rods on overlap. Both valves will be open slightly.
John