Going to give this a try for Handle bar vibration.

[badyellowvette]

Based on a thread by Mr.Wright I thought I would give weight at the ends of the handle bars a try. My right hand starts to tingle after maybe an hour riding. Could be my Carpal Tunnel coming back, it's been 20 years since I had that operated on. Going to see if this does anything.

Started out finding a fiberglass handle that fit inside the handle bars.
Cut the maximum length I could fit in the bars on the right side. Five inches before hitting the wires that run through the bars. Found some PVC pipe fittings that fit in the ends of my tube and after smoothing the ends up on a grinder epoxied one end in.
Filled the tube with lead shot I had on hand and sealed the other end.

Wrapped it with a little electrical tape to tighten it up a little and tapped into the bars. Not sure if it should be tight or a little loose. I had read about matching the vibration of the bars with the insert that you use, how ever you do that. First test will be to see if the mirror on right side vibrates less than the left.

 

[liferider]

Ok I’m interested in your results!!

 

[woodbutcher]

seems like you would need to make sure it doesn't vibrate on in to the point that it would get into those wires you were talking about and cut/chafe them. good luck with it.

 

[SEAL-rider]

Based on a thread by Mr.Wright I thought I would give weight at the ends of the handle bars a try. My right hand starts to tingle after maybe an hour riding. Could be my Carpal Tunnel coming back, it's been 20 years since I had that operated on. Going to see if this does anything.

Started out finding a fiberglass handle that fit inside the handle bars.View attachment 54379
Cut the maximum length I could fit in the bars on the right side. Five inches before hitting the wires that run through the bars. Found some PVC pipe fittings that fit in the ends of my tube and after smoothing the ends up on a grinder epoxied one end in.
View attachment 54380 Filled the tube with lead shot I had on hand and sealed the other end.
View attachment 54381
Wrapped it with a little electrical tape to tighten it up a little and tapped into the bars. Not sure if it should be tight or a little loose. I had read about matching the vibration of the bars with the insert that you use, how ever you do that. First test will be to see if the mirror on right side vibrates less than the left.

This should work. To remove vibration you either must ground it or convert it to work, in this case heat generated by the ball bearings rubbing against each other. You might want to use stainless steel shot which is smoother. The soft lead might lock up and not be able to move against each other. You need to the friction of the balls moving against each other to convert the vibration to heat. The mass of the lead will probably change the frequency of vibration, but that could be done with a sold piece. And changing the frequency might not be enough.

"The law of energy conservation states that energy can neither be created nor destroyed, it can only be transformed from one form to another. For example, electrical energy passes through a hot plate to produce heat energy. Or it can be transformed from potential to kinetic energy."

 

[badyellowvette]

seems like you would need to make sure it doesn't vibrate on in to the point that it would get into those wires you were talking about and cut/chafe them. good luck with it.

I smoothed the plastic ends of the tube as not to cause any friction and I stuffed some soft fiber material down in the bars up against where the wires enter the bars. As soon as it gets a little warmer I have to get the battery in and test this out. If just setting in the garage running and checking the vibration in the mirrors.

 

[kickstart]

Another option
http://www.bikernet.com/pages/The_Vibranator_Handlebar_Mounted_Vibration_Damping_Device.aspx

 

[HMAN]

Another option
http://www.bikernet.com/pages/The_Vibranator_Handlebar_Mounted_Vibration_Damping_Device.aspx

Yep, they work. Have em in the Pit. BUT, company went outta biz.....not sure if you can find them anymore....?

 

[badyellowvette]

Looked into them, there are similar devices out there for $50 and I might try them if this doesn't work. I have $0 into this.

 

[Ray]

Based on a thread by Mr.Wright I thought I would give weight at the ends of the handle bars a try. My right hand starts to tingle after maybe an hour riding. Could be my Carpal Tunnel coming back, it's been 20 years since I had that operated on. Going to see if this does anything.

Started out finding a fiberglass handle that fit inside the handle bars.View attachment 54379
Cut the maximum length I could fit in the bars on the right side. Five inches before hitting the wires that run through the bars. Found some PVC pipe fittings that fit in the ends of my tube and after smoothing the ends up on a grinder epoxied one end in.
View attachment 54380 Filled the tube with lead shot I had on hand and sealed the other end.
View attachment 54381
Wrapped it with a little electrical tape to tighten it up a little and tapped into the bars. Not sure if it should be tight or a little loose. I had read about matching the vibration of the bars with the insert that you use, how ever you do that. First test will be to see if the mirror on right side vibrates less than the left.

likes the idea ,,, My mirrors shake so bad at 70 mph,, they are basically worthless,,,

 

[liferider]

Yep, company is belly up but, looking at their product. I can build something that will work I believe. What is the length from the outside of the bar to the internal wiring. Exactly. Also the ID of the bars. I have a full machine shop and I’m thinking of a 3 piece segment with gum rubber in between them with a all thread going threw it. Slide into place then with an Allen wrench tighten the allthread wich will squish the gum rubber and cause it to expand and hold device in place.

 

[badyellowvette]

Yep, company is belly up but, looking at their product. I can build something that will work I believe. What is the length from the outside of the bar to the internal wiring. Exactly. Also the ID of the bars. I have a full machine shop and I’m thinking of a 3 piece segment with gum rubber in between them with a all thread going threw it. Slide into place then with an Allen wrench tighten the allthread wich will squish the gum rubber and cause it to expand and hold device in place.

Distance to the wire loom is just an RCH over 5" the inside bar Dia on mine is 0.9987

 

[liferider]

Shannon give me a call 318-470-7288

 

[Butch Cassidy]

I wrapped my grips with tennis racquet tape.... easy, basically no cost, and it works.View media item 9154

 

[Blac94cobra]

maybe I am too old to even notice the vibration, but after 3500 miles to Sturgis, Yellowstone and the salt flats (and yes I rode it, this is not a trailer queen) I really did not have any issues with vibration in the handle bars. admittedly I did replace the mirrors with similar ones from Harley. what I did find very interesting though is that this bike is similar to the SR 71 Blackbird spy plane. mine is not happy until about 90mph at which point it settles in and the ride is spectacular

 

[francoblay1]

maybe I am too old to even notice the vibration, but after 3500 miles to Sturgis, Yellowstone and the salt flats (and yes I rode it, this is not a trailer queen) I really did not have any issues with vibration in the handle bars. admittedly I did replace the mirrors with similar ones from Harley. what I did find very interesting though is that this bike is similar to the SR 71 Blackbird spy plane. mine is not happy until about 90mph at which point it settles in and the ride is spectacular

Check THIS out too.

 

[badyellowvette]

Had the opportunity to ride the bike a short distance today to see if the vibration is better since adding my handlebar weight. It does seem to be less vibration than I remember and I can see out of the mirror better on the throttle side where I put the weight. But it could all be my imagination. I will see how big of a difference it makes when I take my first three or four hour ride when the weather is better.

 

[SEAL-rider]

Had the opportunity to ride the bike a short distance today to see if the vibration is better since adding my handlebar weight. It does seem to be less vibration than I remember and I can see out of the mirror better on the throttle side where I put the weight. But it could all be my imagination. I will see how big of a difference it makes when I take my first three or four hour ride when the weather is better.

These should work better than lead shot.
https://www.niagaracycle.com/catego...WlHTefsOr3D7NTShxLMz4UhqsMLMIXWEaAkoxEALw_wcB


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[badyellowvette]

These should work better than lead shot.
https://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/pyramid-bicycle-loose-ball-bearings-3-16-bag-of-144?utm_source=TPA On Google Shopping&utm_campaign=Top Placement Ads® (SPLA)&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=People Searching For Bike Parts&utm_content=Google Shopping&product_id=38022&device=m&loc_physical_ms=9061189&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzcbWBRDmARIsAM6uChWeyybHmResRIQ8jl8r0-4WlHTefsOr3D7NTShxLMz4UhqsMLMIXWEaAkoxEALw_wcB


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Maybe I should try on the other side.

 

[SimpleMan_Omen]

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/kuryakyn-kinetic-grips-for-harley-with-dual-cable-throttle

I swapped out my pointed grips for these. The rubber isolates the rest of the grip from the bars and helps to reduce vibration. That's not why I bought them but I did notice the difference.

 

[Reddickracing]

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/kuryakyn-kinetic-grips-for-harley-with-dual-cable-throttle

I swapped out my pointed grips for these. The rubber isolates the rest of the grip from the bars and helps to reduce vibration. That's not why I bought them but I did notice the difference.

Cool Looking