What is a float in my carb and how hard is it to check/fix for someone without much experience?
For the mechanically challenged, it would be wise to follow a routine of turning off the petcock and call it a day.
A carb is the worst thing to touch. First, the carb may be built in a metric world and you place an American phillips screwdriver into a japanese made or a copied phillips screw hex with different angles, meaning, you strip the screw head and you are fucked! So right there we begin fucking the parts up we do not tool up for said international parts you will be working with is one [limited] tool about to make your world a horror story.
The float has tension>> it sits on the sidestand. Like a playground seesaw, lay a bucket of water on one end of the seesaw. The pivot receives pressure at the far end of the [bucket] pivot or float bottom, forces pressure at the pivot. If the sidestand were to be switched, the pressure would be off the float side, be more at an angle or pressure on the pivot side, has less pressure at the float bowl far end, lowers the bowl, drops the needle some.
So if you are mechanically inclined to see the pressure has switched via the change of sidestands, you can kind of see the pressure in relation to the pressure placed upon the float needle. So if you have less gravity pushing against the float via; closing the petcock to stop the pressure upon the float needle: no flow will occur.
Ask yourself this:
1. Does the bike foul plugs, the float tang is too low, the tang has an indent so deep, the needle drops with the correct float height? No, no fouling.
2. Is my bike hard starting as in too rich a mixture? No. Starts right up.
3. Does my bike run like crap, it spits and coughs like it's running out of power it's too rich and puffs smoke out the pipe? No. Runs like new.
If all answer as a NO, close petcock and get used to the routine. No carb work needed.
Signed,
NOLTT (you are about to create more headaches for yourself) is better left alone.