06K9cruiser
New Member
I have a 2006 K9 and am thinking about converting to fuel injection. Any thing I should watch for or be aware of? Anybody have any ideas?
fuel injection conversion help
- Thread starter 06K9cruiser
- Start date
I'll answer you here, cruiser.
1. I need 1 of 2 ideas, convert to a harley crank or update to the bike when it turned to FI in the next year I believe? The other thing is to find a tone wheel and how many fingers or trigger wheel teeth to use so the computer recognizes the tone wheel pulse, be it a 4 tone/20/24 kind of window count of the tone wheel, or cutout of the flywheel side of one crank side.
2. Next would be the spark or the crank sensor. This would have to be fixed to where the advancer degrees are in line with so many degrees BTDC. This has to line up with the spark box side of the ECU so it has an idle degree up to the fully advanced, wherever that is.
3. The other part might be the cam sensor so there is a spark to the correct cylinder upon fire.
4. Back to the wire harness and the traffic signals or the wrapping of wires in a certain way so the frequencies do not clash but speed along that train rail system called CAN Com or canbus communication among the wire harness build.
5. There has to be some sort of atmospheric check as to where you are, as in sea level or up a mountain grade that has less air the higher you go. This may call for an 02 sensor or an IAP sensor, or intake air pressure to adjust from the penultimate number either up or down that mountain without fouling plugs or leaning out the bike too lean and cooking pistons.
6. The fuel injectors and the manifold to hold them and have the proper aim for the angle is all about chasing HP. This calls for the correct FPM or fuel per minute and the pressure behind it.
7. The fuel pump is next. This is to build the pressure in the line to feed the fuel per minute we add up the milliseconds of the opening and such. So with this comes a gas tank that fits the pump, or use a remote pump on the outside to cover the psi needed to push the fuel out once the pintle or injector pin stays open.
8. The ECU is the final piece to the puzzle, we use minimum FI sensors and related parts. This has to read the tone wheel upon start up. It's all about balance between the crank tone wheel to ECU counting the tooth count. Next is the balance of the sensors and their measured tolerance to what the ECU is looking for as in a signal within spec.
a. We have many waves so we first want to make sure our wave is a square wave, not a hacksaw blade wave, and some other type waves. That one wave better be in the right frequency.
b. We need a head that holds the cam sensor, or if a case is used at the crank cone?
c. We need the intake vacuum sensor so we can detect a smoother ignition curve. That would be close to how the VOES works. Without that sensor, the ECU brings up the backup and we now run against the penultimate number or in limp mode, not FULL mode.
d. We need to find a wire harness off a harley FI and follow the wires or buy the ECU that comes with it.
e. We better hope the crank triggers the ECU to trigger the injector, and then triggers the spark.
Still want to run FI with a carb to injector conversion, or buy a computer bike, sell the carb'd bike.
1. I need 1 of 2 ideas, convert to a harley crank or update to the bike when it turned to FI in the next year I believe? The other thing is to find a tone wheel and how many fingers or trigger wheel teeth to use so the computer recognizes the tone wheel pulse, be it a 4 tone/20/24 kind of window count of the tone wheel, or cutout of the flywheel side of one crank side.
2. Next would be the spark or the crank sensor. This would have to be fixed to where the advancer degrees are in line with so many degrees BTDC. This has to line up with the spark box side of the ECU so it has an idle degree up to the fully advanced, wherever that is.
3. The other part might be the cam sensor so there is a spark to the correct cylinder upon fire.
4. Back to the wire harness and the traffic signals or the wrapping of wires in a certain way so the frequencies do not clash but speed along that train rail system called CAN Com or canbus communication among the wire harness build.
5. There has to be some sort of atmospheric check as to where you are, as in sea level or up a mountain grade that has less air the higher you go. This may call for an 02 sensor or an IAP sensor, or intake air pressure to adjust from the penultimate number either up or down that mountain without fouling plugs or leaning out the bike too lean and cooking pistons.
6. The fuel injectors and the manifold to hold them and have the proper aim for the angle is all about chasing HP. This calls for the correct FPM or fuel per minute and the pressure behind it.
7. The fuel pump is next. This is to build the pressure in the line to feed the fuel per minute we add up the milliseconds of the opening and such. So with this comes a gas tank that fits the pump, or use a remote pump on the outside to cover the psi needed to push the fuel out once the pintle or injector pin stays open.
8. The ECU is the final piece to the puzzle, we use minimum FI sensors and related parts. This has to read the tone wheel upon start up. It's all about balance between the crank tone wheel to ECU counting the tooth count. Next is the balance of the sensors and their measured tolerance to what the ECU is looking for as in a signal within spec.
a. We have many waves so we first want to make sure our wave is a square wave, not a hacksaw blade wave, and some other type waves. That one wave better be in the right frequency.
b. We need a head that holds the cam sensor, or if a case is used at the crank cone?
c. We need the intake vacuum sensor so we can detect a smoother ignition curve. That would be close to how the VOES works. Without that sensor, the ECU brings up the backup and we now run against the penultimate number or in limp mode, not FULL mode.
d. We need to find a wire harness off a harley FI and follow the wires or buy the ECU that comes with it.
e. We better hope the crank triggers the ECU to trigger the injector, and then triggers the spark.
Still want to run FI with a carb to injector conversion, or buy a computer bike, sell the carb'd bike.
Diesel Dan
Well-Known Member
Stick with your carb.............2 much money to convert it over and availability of parts for the dog might be a issue
,if your having driveability issue"s,get the carb rebuilt and hot-rodded,much less :bang:headache and downtime..........
,if your having driveability issue"s,get the carb rebuilt and hot-rodded,much less :bang:headache and downtime..........
BigDogBro1
Made in the USA
You gotta be joking...If you're asking for info and ideas then for sure you should stay away from any conversion.
I advise against it.
Fuel pump, manifold, throttle body, ECM, harnessing, O2 sensors, exhaust mod and more.
You'll regret it.
I advise against it.
Fuel pump, manifold, throttle body, ECM, harnessing, O2 sensors, exhaust mod and more.
You'll regret it.
Last edited:
pknowles
RETIRED
Why??
Srodden
Well-Known Member
Besides having carburation is one less electrical issue to be concerned with and it has reserve to get you to the gas station.
Take pics and keep notes so you can post a "how to", this is gonna be interesting...
06K9cruiser
New Member
I appreciate the advice everybody. It's as I thought and will be way to much of an issue. My dad has a XXX carb on his and has no issue with it with altitude changes and I like the way it runs. I think I will go that route.
Black Rider
Active Member
I have an XXX on my 06 K9 and I love it.