Electric down after + contact to ignition box

Energy One
Hi, I have a 2004 Mastiff that has electrical problems after the housing of the *ignition box had contact with the + of the 30A Fuse next to it. After that it will not start again. Checked the both fuses under the seat, both are ok. Are there any other fuses on the bike. Can anyone help me with a wiring plan ??? Any idea witch unit may be down ? Speedometer beam is very low (light shines like 6V only), neutral gear beam is on, as well as ignition beam on the control panel. No light, starter only makes "click" when pushing the starter button for many seconds, an horn only mahes a small nois when pushing the horn button. :confused:Regards Andy Richter
 

BadBrad

2005 Pitbull
Hi Andy. Welcome to the forum. Just so we all know who you are, it would be nice if you would post an "introduction" telling us a little about you, where you're from, hobbies, family, ect.

The first thing I would check would be your battery. A bad battery will cause a dog to have all kinds of strange electrical problems. The "click" of your starter indicates it's getting some power, but not enough to activate it. Check voltage from your battery as you try to crank your bike. It shouldn't drop too much. Once you know you have a "good" battery, check back and we'll go from there. Don't forget, post an intro or the intro cops will ticket you.
 

RRRUFF

Well-Known Member
Hi Andy. Welcome to the forum. Just so we all know who you are, it would be nice if you would post an "introduction" telling us a little about you, where you're from, hobbies, family, ect.

The first thing I would check would be your battery. A bad battery will cause a dog to have all kinds of strange electrical problems. The "click" of your starter indicates it's getting some power, but not enough to activate it. Check voltage from your battery as you try to crank your bike. It shouldn't drop too much. Once you know you have a "good" battery, check back and we'll go from there. Don't forget, post an intro or the intro cops will ticket you.
Here is a schematic for 04's

:2thumbs:
Are you getting any fault light's on your EHC?

:2thumbs:
 

Moespeeds

Well-Known Member
Ign is fried. I did exactly the same thing once. Why the hell they make that thing out of metal makes no sense to me.
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
If your light are dim and the horn is very weak, logic tells me you battery is fried and not the ignition. If the ignition was fried it would crank and crank and crank and no start. If the battery is fried it will not cranky, my 2 cents

Carlos :whoop:
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
I did the same thing. Just got my ignition back from Thunderheart. They checked it out for free. Mine is ok though. It did leave a little burn mark where the + touched it. I musta got lucky.
 
Hi guys, first of all I want to say thank you so much for the infos and tips. Battery is good (13V), put on a battery of my car, no changes. Ingition switch separatly checked: 0 Ohms when switch is ignition on. Ignition switch voltage is 12V when switch is on ignition off, 4V when ignition switch is on. LED on the thunder heart ignition is always off. LED's on the EHC are working for ignition on, LED for high beam, and LED for Horn. That's it ! No change to all that, when thunder heart ignition is disconnected. Big Dog Performance Products told me they don't have a replacement kit for the 2004. They start at 05. I am now at the point to take the wire plus and a new ignition too, just to be sure. But before that I want to be sure that there is no other problem on the electric, ...voltage regulator (normally is only working when generator is working), or something else...
Please help me !!!!!!! Weather is getting better !!!!!!!!!!! I have no bike !!!! That's horrable !!!
Cheers Andy
 

standuprick

Active Member
Start with the basics. Clean all connections to the battery. Have the battery load tested. Also, clean the battery cable that goes to the starter. Put dilectric grease on the connections. Try to jump start the bike off your car battery. Does it make a difference?
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Ignition switch voltage is 12V when switch is on ignition off, 4V when ignition switch is on. LED on the thunder heart ignition is always off.
Im confused. :confused: When you turn the key and remember you gotta hit the run button! Do you have 12v going to the ignition? How many volts leaving the ignition?


LED's on the EHC are working for ignition on, LED for high beam, and LED for Horn. That's it ! No change to all that, when thunder heart ignition is disconnected.
The only light you want on is your ignition. If the high beam and Horn LED are lit then you have a "fault" somewhere on those lines. Check you headlight boot as some of these melt. In regards to your horn make sure its still connected and there, some people loose their horn going down the road :up:
 
I have only going 4V to the ignition ! When turning the ignition key, there will on all lines maximum 4 Volts, on the lines going to the handle bars are 1,5V up to 3,5V. Turning the key off I have 12V up to the Ignition key. Run button pushed or not 4V. I checked the cable going from ignition key into the EHC: 4V. Fried EHC ??? Cheers Andy
PS:Shall I port the ignition key ? Thought when checking the Ignition key with 0 Ohms, there cannot be the mistake.
 

cadilac333

Active Member
Same here, i did the same thing. I ordered a new ignition and crank trigger and still have no light on ignition. I am going to replace the 30 amp and see what happens. Please let me know if you figure it out and i will do the same. Ryan
 

Mojo

Member
The handlebar switches send ground inputs to the EHC when pushed. There is a 5-volt reference voltage going to them. Disconnect the 4 wire connecter at the ignition module. Turn the key on and push run. There shoud be power on the red, and ground on the black at the harness connecter. If there is, plug it back in and disconnect the 3 wire connecter at the ignition module. With the key on and run button pushed, ground the green signal wire coming out of the ignition module. If the LED does not light, the ignition module is fried, which happens in most cases when the body of the module contacts battery power. Also, 2004 and earlier ignition modules usually do not light unless the motor is turning because of where the trigger rotor in the engine rests when off.
 

Mojo

Member
Same here, i did the same thing. I ordered a new ignition and crank trigger and still have no light on ignition. I am going to replace the 30 amp and see what happens. Please let me know if you figure it out and i will do the same. Ryan
The only thing the circuit breaker does on carbureted bikes is provide protection from charging system failure.
 

gbspear

Member
If your Ignition Module Light does not come on momentarily and is not on when cranking, try hot wiring like i did. Wire a jumper from the pos side of the battery to the red wire on the 3 wire plug to the Ignition Module. If that works the EHC Igniton portion is done. The bike will run like this but you will have to disconnect the wire to shut off the bike.
 

cadilac333

Active Member
FYI I changed out the ignition and cam trigger. The cam trigger was burnt after the contact with the ignition box with 30 amp fuse. Once the ignition box was grounded verything was great. I change the cam trigger that thunderheart sells and i am using the original thunderheart and keeping the new one as a spare. try changing the cam trigger and see if this helps.
 
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